Stuck Shirogorov Screw

M

MikeLouns

Joined
Aug 4, 2016
Messages
19
So I put a little blue locktite on the bottom screw in my Hati, and now I can't get it open. The free turning female bolt is flat, and obviously doesn't take a tool, so I can't seem to generate enough leverage with the friction of my thumb to break the locktite.

I've tried applying heat, as so many have suggested, not only with a hair dryer but also a soldering iron for more direct application to the screw itself. Nothing seems to work.

Am I "screwed" or is there something I haven't tried yet.
 
MikeLouns said:
So I put a little blue locktite on the bottom screw in my Hati, and now I can't get it open. The free turning female bolt is flat, and obviously doesn't take a tool, so I can't seem to generate enough leverage with the friction of my thumb to break the locktite.

I've tried applying heat, as so many have suggested, not only with a hair dryer but also a soldering iron for more direct application to the screw itself. Nothing seems to work.

Am I "screwed" or is there something I haven't tried yet.
Click to expand...

My condolence, bro. Ran into a similar situation with my Reate Horizon D recently. After trying all sorts of tricks to no avail I finally gave up and shipped it to Reate USA Office. Needless to say they fixed it easily (or maybe not so easily).
 
This issue seems to constantly come up and I dealt with it once on a knife myself.
I gave up after a week of trying, and periodically came back every few weeks to give it a try for a couple hours until, eventually, I succeeded.
(Mostly, boiling water seemed to help the most)
Such a stupid design feature, though, I'll never buy another knife like that.
 
Coyja said:
This issue seems to constantly come up and I dealt with it once on a knife myself.
I gave up after a week of trying, and periodically came back every few weeks to give it a try for a couple hours until, eventually, I succeeded.
(Mostly, boiling water seemed to help the most)
Such a stupid design feature, though, I'll never buy another knife like that.
Click to expand...
Boiling water is interesting. I'm a tad concerned that might melt the resin of the carbon fiber though.
 
Try a little nail polish remover (acetone) on a q-tip around the screw. Acetone will dissolve most super glues. Remember it is flammable.
Rich
 
afishhunter said:
Doubtful. Those resins/epoxies don't melt once they are set.
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I'd tend to agree, but apparently it depends on the resin. I could be entirely wrong but from the little bit of research I did if the resin was ambient cured, its melting point is 100c or the temp at which water boils. I'd be surprised if this method was used, but since I don't know, its a "tad" concerning. I'm still likely going to try it though.
 
did ya try something rubber to hold the other side? to get some grip on it?
 
I've never done this but if I was desperate, I would try it.
First try strong adhesive tape, the strongest you can find like duct tape or even something like 3M Extreme Mounting tape (holds up to 20Lbs). Tape over the pivot that you want to hold still. Apply pressure to the pivot over the tape while trying to turn the screw.

or

Apply plumbing sealant (a.k.a GOOP) to the area around the pivot side you want to hold still. Let it cure. Once it has fully cured, apply heat the pivot screw (GOOP is heat resistant) and turn it while applying pressure to the GOOPed side. When you get it unscrewed, just pick/peel off the GOOP. It will peel/break off like silicon caulk.
 
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Hoback off sets the barrel of the pivot 3 thou so the pivot rotates and "locks" in. Excellent idea, I wish other companies would do. It eliminates the problem of the spinning pivot.


I don't think carbon fiber would come apart in boiling water, but that of course depends on what it was made with. Bummer Shiro doesn't have a warranty facility in the USA, that's a deal breaker for me.
 
silverds said:
I've never done this but if I was desperate, I would try it.
First try strong adhesive tape, the strongest you can find like duct tape or even something like 3M Extreme Mounting tape (holds up to 20Lbs). Tape over the pivot that you want to hold still. Apply pressure to the pivot over the tape while trying to turn the screw.

or

Apply plumbing sealant (a.k.a GOOP) to the area around the pivot side you want to hold still. Let it cure. Once it has fully cured, apply heat the pivot screw (GOOP is heat resistant) and turn it while applying pressure to the GOOPed side. When you get it unscrewed, just pick/peel off the GOOP. It will peel/break off like silicon caulk.
Click to expand...
I like this idea, I will try the tape. Goop, maybe not, but I like the tape idea.
 
I wonder if you put some gorilla tape tightly over the female side of your knife and held it tight while trying to turn your screw?
 
Put a pencil inside the chuck on a drill, face the rubber end out. Put the knife in a vice or have someone help you. Put the drill on the fastest setting and spin the eraser on the female side while turning the male side with your tool.
 
I have done a similar removal, not on an expensive knife, but on something i certainty did not want to damage.

Lets see if this makes sense, you'll need a small C-clamp, and you will need to fabricate a top clamp spacer (in the shape of a 'C') that is open enough for you to access the head of the screw with the screwdriver when the C-clamp is on the knife. Making this out of rubber or wood should not scratch the scale. You will also need to fab up a small spacer of rubber to mount over the spinning female end (placing 3m tape between them won't hurt and may add more grip).

Now place both fabbed inserts/spacers (whatever you want to call them, and clamp them firmly in place carefully with the C-clamp. This should effectively compress and hold the spinning female end under sufficient pressure while allowing access to the male end of the screw. You may have to clamp on a slight angle to allow access up top, or get a C-clamp with free clamp ends that pivot slightly.

Using the screwdriver now go for it... if all goes well it'll break free and unscrew.

Of course heat it up however you can before you begin. Boiling water will not damage CF resin.
 
This idea suddenly comes to my mind. Not sure if it has been tried. How about super glue a dispensible screwdriver/torx bit to the damaged screw head? Once they bind strong enough, try to screw out. I believe there are super glues or epoxy that bind metals permanently.
 
mt666tm said:
I have done a similar removal, not on an expensive knife, but on something i certainty did not want to damage.

Lets see if this makes sense, you'll need a small C-clamp, and you will need to fabricate a top clamp spacer (in the shape of a 'C') that is open enough for you to access the head of the screw with the screwdriver when the C-clamp is on the knife. Making this out of rubber or wood should not scratch the scale. You will also need to fab up a small spacer of rubber to mount over the spinning female end (placing 3m tape between them won't hurt and may add more grip).

Now place both fabbed inserts/spacers (whatever you want to call them, and clamp them firmly in place carefully with the C-clamp. This should effectively compress and hold the spinning female end under sufficient pressure while allowing access to the male end of the screw. You may have to clamp on a slight angle to allow access up top, or get a C-clamp with free clamp ends that pivot slightly.

Using the screwdriver now go for it... if all goes well it'll break free and unscrew.

Of course heat it up however you can before you begin. Boiling water will not damage CF resin.
Click to expand...
I had this idea as well and bought a small dewalt clamp for modification. I cant seem to get enough pressure on the female end to keep it from spinning. I haven't tried boiling water yet, or acetone, but the battle rages on.
 
I just had a huge problem like this. I had to take apart a Gareth Bull Shamwari. I tried everything and could not get it open. I called my friend who is a watch maker and Jeweler. To keep it short It wouldn't budge.
He then used a penetrating oil called Kano Kroil, left it for about 5 minutes and with some effort it finally came out.
If you have used Direct heat with a heat gun and doesn't budge their might be something else going on. My knife actually had rust in the female side. Doesn't say much for $650.
You can also try whacking it which will sometimes work and you can put crazy glue between the scale and edge of the free turning side whack it first and then crazy glue it. If these methods dont work send it in.
 
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