Stupid Peening Question

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Feb 12, 2001
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I've heard people talk about peening the end of the blade tang to tighten a loose butt cap. Is there any special technique to this? Do you just give it a few whacks with a hammer to mush it down more? I am assuming this is what holds the butt cap on?
--Josh
 
Peening 101:

Peening is a controlled deformation of a rivet (or tang, inn this case) which tightens an assembly between a washer (in this case, the washer disc is the brass pommel) and the rivet head. Initially, peening causes the rivet to expand along its circumference a bit, which provides the initial lock-up of the assembly. The rest of the peening expands the struck area to many times its normal size, moving metal from the center of the rivet to the outer edges. This often results in the rivet having a "mushroomed" appearnace, where a flange devlops from succesive pounding. Successively oblique (almost diagonal) strikes willl continue to move the center mass of the rivet to the outer edges.

Peening is best done with a ball peen hammer, which is designed to provide you with glancing blows that deform the edges of the target, thus snugging up the fit. To 'peen', you secure the handle (preferrably the blade) in a vise (use a towel, cardboard or leather pads to keep the vise teeth from scarrinng the khuk), then strike obliquely (as opposed to straight down like when hammering a nail) from the center to the edge of the tang or rivet. You will know you are doing it right if you get a glancing blow that mushrooms out the edge of tang. Continue this process in all dorections, moving always from an oblique strike at the center of the tang down the lip of the tang. You can experiment with peening angles, and often you may start with a more straight on vertical shot, then end with strikes that are almost horizontal.

In comparinng my HI villager model to my other 'finished' khuks, I noted that it seems that the sometimes sharp peened edges have been removed for looks and safety, but sometimes this may remove the mass of bunched metal on the tang that held it all together in the first place.

The peening effect is often observed on old metal tent stakes, ones that have been hit repeatedly for years will exhibit the mushrooming characteristics of the target area.

Most of this comes from my armoring experience, which is limited to a helm, a full set of articulated arm and leg harness, a paor of articulated elbow cops with lames, a few suits of brigandine, and copious amounts of leather armor and copper rivet work. I guess I've peened just under 1500 rivets--copper, mild steel, and even the dreaded 'pop' rivet...

Hope this helps....

Keith
 
Very informative. Thanks

I know I didn't ask the original question, but lurking around sure adds to my knowledge bank.:)
 
Hey, Ferrous (or anyone else)-- one more quick question: if I don't have a vice or a ball peen hammer, can I use a regular hammer and set the tip of the blade on a stump or something? Man, I really need to get some tools.
--Josh
 
Ball peen hammers are pretty cheap. I bought two. One was the smallest I could find and one rather large one for larger projects and home defence. :D
 
Originally posted by BruiseLeee
Ball peen hammers are pretty cheap. I bought two. One was the smallest I could find and one rather large one for larger projects and home defence. :D

What happened to your 5 pound sledge?:D I thought that was for home defense or was it just to secure butt caps?:)
 
Ever see Gallagar & his watermelons?

That's the Bruise method for fixing loose buttcaps except his mallet is steel.
 
Yeah, Josh. That will work in a pinch, I've done it. jsut make sure you're hitting nice and obliquely, kind of striking and pulling the hammer off the target at the same time...another thread mentions that you got ot already...

Keith
 
You can learn something new everyday on this forum. Thanks. My few times at peening anything always involved the hammer-to-the-nail technique. Now I know the right way! :)
 
Originally posted by Ferrous Wheel
Yeah, Josh. That will work in a pinch, I've done it. jsut make sure you're hitting nice and obliquely, kind of striking and pulling the hammer off the target at the same time...another thread mentions that you got ot already...

Keith

Yeah, thanks, Ferrous-- I didn't have $ for a ball peen hammer and a vice right now, so I figured I would take the lo-tech hillbilly approach. I used your technique, but substituted a regular hammer and a stump for the vice and ball-peen. Definitely tools that are on my list to pick up though. Thanks again for all your advice.
--Josh
 
:) 'HI U' HIMALAYAN IMPORTS UNIVERSITY


You can learn something new everyday on this forum:)
 
some of my fave tools. Yoiu really don't need expensive tools to do most stuff thats cool.

Incidentally, the ball peen hammer and the rubber mallet, when combined with the stump, can be used to make all manner of metal armor. for dishing (hammering a flat piece of metal into a shaped divot in the log), the ball peen is the right tool, but you couuld bash it with a rock and still get the desired result.
Now, planishing (doming), is the reverse technique of putting the metal disk on a dome shape, and working the piece the other way. You'd be surprised how much you can contort a flat sheet of 12 or 14 ga. steel...


On the subject of armor (i'm waay OT now), here's an artist after my own heart...Jeff DeBoer

"15th Century Maximilian Rat", 1993, bronze, brass, 8"X3"X3"
work16.jpg

"A Collection of Armour Ties for Saving Executives in the Corporate Fray", 1990-1999, mixed media, 22"X4" each
work12.jpg

Bonus pic--the viking corporate raider briefcase
work10.jpg


Keith
 
"Warhead: The Combination of a Milanese Helm and a 1950's Rocket", 1992, iron, brass, 16"X5"X5"
work19.jpg


"Warrior Kwan Helmet for a Dog", 1999, brass, copper, wood, 20"X14"X14"
nw13.jpg


"Exoform: Heaume", 1999, steel, wood, 35"X9"14"
aw08.jpg


Keith

See his stuff @ www.jeffdeboer.com
 
Yowzah, Ferrous, that Viking briefcase just about make my eyeballs fall out of my head. That is just awesome.

Do you have any pics of the armor you have made? I'd love to see them if you do.
--Josh
 
Yeah, I have some pix of armor, as well as other metalwork and fittings I've made. Would you like me to send a few pix yer way via email?
Mind you, mine was made for use, not show. I've had the crap kicked outta the armor (it took a beating so I'd only end up with bruises). Didnt always aim for fancy or pretty, but i did apply advanced principles as fluting, sliding rivets, hinges, folded and flanged edges for strength & comfort, etc.

The historical combat I did was 5 years fighting in full armor, hitting each other with rattan sticks between 2-10 feet inn length,
2-4 times a week, 2-4 hours a pop. After the first few years, you note that your helm has begun to take a slight curve or dishing to the left side of the helm, the side that gets repeatedly stuk by right handers. I'm a lefty, so I was out to make all helms in the Midrealm (and parts further abroad) have a symmetyical dishing to the right side...

Keith
 
I still kick myself repeatedly for not putting my spare ( off ) hours when I was working in a sheet metal and machine shop to good use. At the time I thought that working and going to school at the same time was more than enough to handle. Left me time to go watch the SCA practice now and then. This was '77 to '79. Dummy Me!

PS: Looks like the cover of an early Heinlein paperback like Rocketship Gailieo , or earlier. When he was writing for the Tom Swift and Hardy Boys audience.
 
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