Stupid... What Bar Stock Should I Buy?

O

Omega Leather Works

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Jun 13, 2007
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Im having trouble navigating the Jantz and Texas knife supply sites.

Im a beginer (obviously) doing stock removal. I like carbon but if Im goin to go with SS Id like to go with S30V (I know Ill have to send it out for heat treat). Damascus is great too (carbon). Im no worried about cost because Im not buying a ton.

Please recommend high end steel. Please recommend thickneses and height. Ill be making narrow daggers, fighters and Ken Onion esque recurves (haha)... well Ill try anyway.

Help get me started, all Ive worked with is .250 and that is a tad thick.

Thanks!
 
You know what? I think you are on the right track.but if you are a beginer you may not be happy with your blade making skills at first..though there have been exceptions! Please try 5/32" thick 440C! if you can, get two inch wide stock for those wierd angled designs you may come up with. 440C is a great steel that makes up into a very good knife, but it has been overshadowed by higher tech steels and it has sometimes been heat treated very badly by backyard shadetree knifemakers. While the idea is to make completed knives to show off & enjoy, Consider just making blades for now and learn the patience metal work takes. WHen you have great blades then you can start on the skills of adding bolsters , fingerguards and handles...then the fun of sheaths and sharpening! You have a long road ahead of you..enjoy!
 
Great advise above. It is a rare occurrence when a new maker starts out with top end blades and show quality knives. Learn how to make them RIGHT, then learn how to make them pretty. Eventually the two will happen together.

As for steel. In carbon you have several choices for a beginner steel. O-1, 1080/1084, L-6 (15N20), 5160. All are readily available in several sizes and easy to work and HT.
In stainless, it gets more complicated.
CMP154 (which is the newer particle method version of 154CM and ATS34) is a very nice stainless to start with. So is 440C . The "Killer "V" steels" like S30V, S60V, etc. are a bit tougher to work for a beginner.
My advise would be to start with only one or two steels and learn them well before jumping around . (thickness and size will depend on your blades,but for a starter order)
5160 or 1080/1084 for carbon and CPM154 for stainless.
Get the carbon in 5/32 or 3/16 and in 1.5" and/or 2".
Get the stainless in 1/8 or 5/32 and get 1.5"
I like 30" bars to work from.
This is very important:
WRITE ON THE BARS IN SEVERAL PLACES WHAT THE STEEL IS !!! (Use a paint marker)
Later on they will all look alike,and you won't know what it is. Every maker probably has made a knife from the wrong steel due to this at one time or another.
Stacy
 
I agree with the advice given. I wouldn't use S30V unless you have a specific, well considered purpose. It's gotten a great name and a lot of press, but it's not always the best choice for a knife. If you want stainless, I think that ATS-34 and the like (154CM and CPM154) are great as is 440C. I really liked working with both ATS and 440 and you won't have trouble getting a good heat treat from reputable outfits. S30V is tough to work and finish.

For carbon steels I like working with 10xx series, 1084 and 1080 have been particularly kind to me.
 
I am a newbie too and I have made most of my blades from O-1, but have also made a few from ATS-34 and CPM-154 (Not to be confused with 154-CM). O-1 is nice to grinds, file and shape; HT is easy (although I use Peters' Heat Treat in PA for all mine right now). ATS-34 is alright. A little tough to grind and finish. CPM-154 is expensive as hell but grinds nice, finishes fantastic and HT comes out somewhere around HRC 61 (don't expect to file much after treat, super TOUGH!). I've been trying to stick with .187" (3/16") x 1 1/4" bars. Seems to be a nice size for learning and gives you just enough to "fix" any mistakes without coming out with a miniature knife! :) Peters' does cryo and all, they are fantastic to work with (contact Brad Stallsmith). Their prices are reasonable and turnaround is great! You can even track your jobs online to see what phase they are in. Anyhow, good luck!
 
TekSec said:
I am a newbie too and I have made most of my blades from O-1, but have also made a few from ATS-34 and CPM-154 (Not to be confused with 154-CM). O-1 is nice to grinds, file and shape; HT is easy (although I use Peters' Heat Treat in PA for all mine right now). ATS-34 is alright. A little tough to grind and finish. CPM-154 is expensive as hell but grinds nice, finishes fantastic and HT comes out somewhere around HRC 61 (don't expect to file much after treat, super TOUGH!). I've been trying to stick with .187" (3/16") x 1 1/4" bars. Seems to be a nice size for learning and gives you just enough to "fix" any mistakes without coming out with a miniature knife! :) Peters' does cryo and all, they are fantastic to work with (contact Brad Stallsmith). Their prices are reasonable and turnaround is great! You can even track your jobs online to see what phase they are in. Anyhow, good luck!
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While I highly appreciate everyones responses this one has been most usefull. Thanks bud.
 
No problem, feel free to email me if you need anything. I'm new but I've done a ton of reading. Stacy Apelt's input has been a wealth of info, as well as Delbert Ealy...only to name a few. This site is the best I've been on for all variations of makers...
 
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