Suggest a dedicated bushcraft knife

I know that it might be frowned upon to have a new thread as my first post, but I have searched the forum for a very similar question being asked and haven't found it, (although I expect it might be in here somewhere and I simply missed it). Anyway, apologies if this thread is in the wrong place, breaking any rules, etc.

Well, I'm looking for a dedicated bushcrafting knife that will be used for doing things such as making feather sticks and kindling, carving small tools like spoons and bowls, tent stakes, etc. It would be nice if it could do some food prep and maybe even a bit of light batoning. This knife would replace my ESEE 4--I don't like the handle on it. I find the 4's handle too cramped if I don't use the finger choil and uncomfortable with the choil, nor do I like the flatness of it. So this should be sort of an all-around bushcrafter around 4" (more ideally something like 3.75" or so, I guess). I have plenty of large camp knives to pair it up with.

I've never used a scandi grind, but that or a scandi-vex seem like they'd be fun to try out, along with a spear point or aggressively dropped point that places the tip in line with the center of the handle for drilling. I'd prefer something in very tough steel such as 3V or 4V so that it could have a pretty thin edge that will really bite into wood. I also like 3V for the almost semi-stainlessness it provides. I've found O1 and A2, not to mention 1095 a little quick to patina for my liking. On the other hand, I don't terribly mind something like S35VN or Elmax if they are expertly heat-treated. Steel isn't the most important thing to me, but I figured it's worth mentioning my preferences. I'm comfortable spending up to around $300.

Thanks for the tips!

I found that the extra length of T.K.C. grips turned the 4 back into one of my favourites again. This may be a consideration before tossing it.

 
If you told me the sheath was designed to look like a bird, I would have thought I'd hate it. Instead, I am really impressed.

That's exactly the way I see it too, I like it even better than the pointy traditional ones!
 
m4_cb.jpg


Lionsteel M4! Probably in the right size range by the sounds of it. (Edited - re-read OP) m390 steel.

I just bought an M2 in D2 and love it.
 
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This knife from Mark Hill in the UK, is close to perfect for bushcraft chores. RWL34 steel, Bocote Wood handle, unique shape, Scandi grind
 
I recently bought a Lon Humphrey Kephart in CPM-3V. I am VERY pleased. It is thicker than a traditional Kephart design (.188) and is double forged (once upon manufacture and once during the hand forging). The sheath comes raw so you'll have to case it and finish it yourself, but that is pretty fun actually. I got mine for under $200 with free shipping and I'd say, at that price, it's a really good deal. This knife begs to be used hard but can featherstick like a champ. The scandi grind on the 3V really bites into wood.
 
You're getting some great advice!

I have an Enzo Trapper in O1. I bought just the blade and made my own scales for it. I did a little bit of careful grinding to contour the grip section before the ricasso and it fits my hands perfectly.

I really like how it performs (blade shape is amazing for carving), but i really want an Elmax variant.

I did a thread on my Enzo project - tons of pics - to illustrate how easy it is to make your own scales, etc. The process really endeared the knife to me.
 
I found that the extra length of T.K.C. grips turned the 4 back into one of my favourites again. This may be a consideration before tossing it.

I appreciate the suggestion. I think the 4 is just too much of a "jack of all, master of none" for me. Mostly due to the presence of the finger choil in a knife that size. I'd rather have something for finer work and something else for heavier work. If it was comfortable for me out of the box I'd probably keep it, but there are plenty of other blades I'd rather use if I need a single carry option. I'd rather get something back for it at this point than spend more to modify it, if that makes sense.

Lionsteel M4! Probably in the right size range by the sounds of it. (Edited - re-read OP) m390 steel.

I just bought an M2 in D2 and love it.

That looks gorgeous with the cocobolo scales. Interesting to note that it is hollow ground with M390/20CV. I was excited for a moment by the name--M4--since I love CPM M4. I have wanted a Lionsteel for some time. Perhaps I will have one someday.

You're getting some great advice!

I have an Enzo Trapper in O1. I bought just the blade and made my own scales for it. I did a little bit of careful grinding to contour the grip section before the ricasso and it fits my hands perfectly.

I really like how it performs (blade shape is amazing for carving), but i really want an Elmax variant.

I did a thread on my Enzo project - tons of pics - to illustrate how easy it is to make your own scales, etc. The process really endeared the knife to me.

That's cool! I will have to check the thread out. I was very close to pulling the trigger on an Elmax Trapper 95 kit, but ultimately the things I read that seem to point to questionable qc have turned me away for the moment. I don't really want to have to send anything overseas for warranty issues if I can help it (I live in the US) so I felt like there was a bit of a gamble. Of course it's a very affordable option, so Enzo remains tempting.

I recently bought a Lon Humphrey Kephart in CPM-3V. I am VERY pleased. It is thicker than a traditional Kephart design (.188) and is double forged (once upon manufacture and once during the hand forging). The sheath comes raw so you'll have to case it and finish it yourself, but that is pretty fun actually. I got mine for under $200 with free shipping and I'd say, at that price, it's a really good deal. This knife begs to be used hard but can featherstick like a champ. The scandi grind on the 3V really bites into wood.

Ultimately, the route I decided to take was to buy a Lon Kephart from DLT Trading, a Bark River Ultralight Bushcrafter from Knives Ship Free, and I'm discussing puukkos with Frederick89, who is super knowledgeable and helpful. I intend to get a custom puukko sometime in the coming months. After all, why get one knife when you can get three! The Kephart should replace my ESEE 4, while the other two will give me some smaller options to do different tasks.

Here is the Kephart on its way to me right now: http://www.dlttrading.com/lon-humph...phart-3v-desert-ironwood-orange-liners-scandi

Here's the ULB: https://www.knivesshipfree.com/bark...e-bushcrafter-cpm-3v-california-buckeye-burl/

This has been a really fascinating and helpful thread. Thank you to all who've participated!
 
That looks gorgeous with the cocobolo scales. Interesting to note that it is hollow ground with M390/20CV. I was excited for a moment by the name--M4--since I love CPM M4. I have wanted a Lionsteel for some time. Perhaps I will have one someday.

It's definitely easy on the eyes. It's not actually hollow it's just a very high flat-ground saber <--- I don't trust that I have the terminology right.. at all (can a saber be hollow?)... but you know what I mean, almost FFG!

I almost got one myself, but I had to opt for something less pretty, to make sure it gets used! Enter the G10 M2.
 
Ultimately, the route I decided to take was to buy a Lon Kephart from DLT Trading, a Bark River Ultralight Bushcrafter from Knives Ship Free, and I'm discussing puukkos with Frederick89, who is super knowledgeable and helpful. I intend to get a custom puukko sometime in the coming months. After all, why get one knife when you can get three! The Kephart should replace my ESEE 4, while the other two will give me some smaller options to do different tasks.

Congratulations on coming to a decision and landing some solid blades. Those should serve you very well!
 
Any chance you have some pics of that Malinen? :o This seems to be the most likely person I will be contacting from what Frederick e-mailed me today.

Took some pictures of the M.M. puukko today. Sorry bout the quality..







For size reference.

Top - bottom: Small 21, Classic 1, Bushcrafter, Oriolus, Ultra-Lite Bushcrafter, Classic 2 and a Manbug.

 
I've found that every knife, regardless of how dedicated it is in the beginning, will eventually get complacent and start slacking off.
 
The nice thing about a MORA if you're into the official "Scandi" grind is that they are so easy to turn into such a "Scandi" by removing the secondary bevel that is usually present from the factory. The offending secondary bevel is small and the steel is not overly abrasion-resistant.

And no convex or concave bevels to flatten.
 
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