suggestion for a steel that will NOT hold an edge

J

Juramentado

Joined
Aug 23, 2003
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185
A buyer is asking me if I can make a unsharpened and dull pointed version of our swords and for the life of me I can't think of what steel would be appropriate.

It has to be a steel that's close to the weight of what we use (1085) and yet something that won't allow an edge to be made if someone thinks of sharpening it.

The most common FMA practice swords are aluminum but are very often not made with full handles and handguards. What we need to make is a true training version of our swords, same weight and all.

I know that we usually want to know what's the best metal for blades. Now what would be the worst one for swords :D
 
What about something like 304 stainless? But pretty much anything metallic is going to take an edge.
 
Any steel you use will be able to take an edge, they just won't necessarily hold it well. Why not just use annealed steel of the same type you use now? Japanese iaito swords are made with a zinc based pot metal that comes close in weight, but it's not very durable and even that can be sharpened to a degree.
 
I would think if you purposely left the edge rounded off it would be harder to sharpen a sword made from 1085 than say mild steel. Any steel you chose can be sharpened. On the other hand I have seen high impact plastic training swords. You could match the weight and have a sword that really could not be sharpened. Of course it would not look like a real sword.
 
Use your normal steel, upset the edge to a 1/8 inch diameter mushroom then heat treat it like normal

-Page
 
Will they be used in stage or mock combat (SCA, etc)? I have a good friend who makes swords of this type for a living and they use 4130 exclusively. The reason being is that it's tough, easy to HT, and doesn't become brittle with lots of impact as some high carbon steels can do.

-d
 
Is the sword going to get used in mock fighting?

Whatever the use,I would suggest you make it in 1060 ,with a completely round edge (about .010" radius), and harden.Remember to radius the tip as a continuous arc,too. Temper twice to a high spring temper, about 600F (Rc should be around 52-54).This way the sword will hold up (and polish) well, but be about as non-harmful as possible. It could be sharpened, but would take considerable work.

As said by the others, any steel, metal, or hard material can be sharpened. It would be better to have a strong sword that will not cut anything.

Stacy
 
bladsmth said:
Is the sword going to get used in mock fighting?

Whatever the use,I would suggest you make it in 1060 ,with a completely round edge (about .010" radius), and harden.Remember to radius the tip as a continuous arc,too. Temper twice to a high spring temper, about 600F (Rc should be around 52-54).This way the sword will hold up (and polish) well, but be about as non-harmful as possible. It could be sharpened, but would take considerable work.

As said by the others, any steel, metal, or hard material can be sharpened. It would be better to have a strong sword that will not cut anything.

Stacy
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As usual Stacy has good advice

If you make the sword thicker rather than upsetting the edge you can always bring the weight out and the balance back by aggressively fullering it.

-page
 
thanks for the info guys. No, the dulled version won't be used for contact. It will be used for safe solo practice, maybe some contact on tires I suppose.
 
you could always just shape the 'edge' so it would be impossible to sharpen. make it thick and rounded.
 
I don't see what difference it makes what kind of steel (or plastic for that matter, if the weight/balance was the same) you use.

Munky88 said:
you could always just shape the 'edge' so it would be impossible to sharpen. make it thick and rounded.
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Um, yeah. Dare I say, "duh"? Perhaps not, I take it back... "hud"


"20 years in front of printing presses and guitar amps... and people wonder why I say 'huh?' alot..."

JT -- formerly known as GibsonFan
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