Suggestion for carbon steel edc folder

bladeprince said:
Always learning something knew on this forum....(the above is just a sample...:thumbup:)

Regards
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Thanks. I only learned it about a month ago in a thread I started while I was shopping for the knife I am carrying now. My father and others keep telling me that the only way to go for excellent edge retention is completely non stainless. I still get doubting looks from them when I try to explain that my zdp blade is supposed to be pretty good for holding an edge, and I have found that one of the things that I have to cut quite often is quite hard on it, thus my renewed search for a purely "carbon steel" blade.
 
Nosetotail said:
Thanks. I only learned it about a month ago in a thread I started while I was shopping for the knife I am carrying now. My father and others keep telling me that the only way to go for excellent edge retention is completely non stainless. I still get doubting looks from them when I try to explain that my zdp blade is supposed to be pretty good for holding an edge, and I have found that one of the things that I have to cut quite often is quite hard on it, thus my renewed search for a purely "carbon steel" blade.
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Good stainless, though, has definitely earned its place in the world of cutlery.

Your father, and others of his generation might not be familiar with some of the real good stainless available today. (Then, of course, they might be...)

ZDP-189, BG-42, S30V - I don't have any issue with blades made of these steels. Also 154CM and ATS-34, which have obviously been around longer, are fine with me. So's AUS-10 and good 440C. VG-10 as well.

Especially when working near or around water. ;)
 
Yeah, but I got my first spots on my blade today. I had to cut something in a manhole and it stayed wet for about three hours until I got home and sprayed it down. It was only a few light spots that rubbed off with chain lube and paper towels. I guess that high carbon in zdp can show its face pretty quickly.
 
MG_Saldivar said:
Cold Steel used to sell a model called the Trail Guide in Carbon V. They've been discontinued for a while but you might find one on eBay. There was a "medium" version, which I owned (blade was approx. 2.5") and a large version (blade approx. 3.5"). It had a thumbhole, pocket clip, and lockback mechanism.
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Thats about what I'm looking for, and my search for one produced dozen's of results, of course they are all Not Available. How long do they hold on to a listing before they realize they aren't going to get any more in? Anyhow I have a good starting price so I'll know when to let it go on E-Bay.
 
Best carbon steel folder out there is the MPF by Mission knives. A2 steel, frame lock and built bull tough but a big buck. One for sale here on the forums I think for less than 300 and if I had the 300 I would snag it as that is my ultimate folder. keepem sharp
 
rifon2 said:
Good stainless, though, has definitely earned its place in the world of cutlery.

Your father, and others of his generation might not be familiar with some of the real good stainless available today. (Then, of course, they might be...)

ZDP-189, BG-42, S30V - I don't have any issue with blades made of these steels. Also 154CM and ATS-34, which have obviously been around longer, are fine with me. So's AUS-10 and good 440C. VG-10 as well.

Especially when working near or around water. ;)
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I have to agree with rifon2 on this one. Stainless steel will definitely cut as well and better than most simple carbon steel blades. The only draw back is that the better stainless steel are harder to sharpen. This is especially true if you don't have a great sharpener. However, when water is not an issue, it all comes down being able to keep the knife sharp all the time. How sharp a knife is really not dependent on the steel but on the ability to sharpen a knife. At this, I do believe that most people don't know how to sharpen a knife, due to poor technique. I recommend taking time to learn honing knives into razors to get the most out of any knife. Then spend the money to get the good quality knife.
 
kidwholaughs said:
I have to agree with rifon2 on this one. Stainless steel will definitely cut as well and better than most simple carbon steel blades. The only draw back is that the better stainless steel are harder to sharpen. This is especially true if you don't have a great sharpener. However, when water is not an issue, it all comes down being able to keep the knife sharp all the time. How sharp a knife is really not dependent on the steel but on the ability to sharpen a knife. At this, I do believe that most people don't know how to sharpen a knife, due to poor technique. I recommend taking time to learn honing knives into razors to get the most out of any knife. Then spend the money to get the good quality knife.
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Well you are about the first I have seen in my threads to comment that the uber steels may perform better than a good high carbon and that is what I have been wondering. I have a zdp and I can shave with it right now, but my issue is cutting nylon flat strap. After about fifteen or twenty cuts, the blade is down right dull and there is what feels like a burr running almost the entire length of the blade. I'm not necessarily blaming the steel, but I am at a little delima. If I go with a highly polished edge(hair popping) I only get three or four slices through the strap, so I go with an ex coarse edge(marginally shaving), and I'm not sure about how to go about stropping without polishing the edge. I'm not convinced I am leaving a burr in the first place, but the nylon strap sure does a number on my blade. I know that it is hard on knives, but I would expect it to just loose its edge, not have some edge damage.

So, I do keep my zdp sharp as sharp gets with an ex coarse dmt stone. I got to show off today when a coworker needed a piece of the strap cut, and I went through it with light pressure and only about an inch of slicing movement. But I want to compare it to a good carbon steel blade. But your comment leaves me wondering if 1095 is considered the best carbon steel for edge retention, or perhaps just the best available. I am curious about Carbon V. I think I read in another thread that the name was just a trademark and it was actually another less commonly used but used nonetheless carbon steel.
 
kidwholaughs said:
John Greco makes folders in 8670 steel, which is basically A2. It's carbon as carbon gets.
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The Whisper looks great, the price, well...it's kinda like holding two pair. I could sport for that, and then there's other options.

Ditto on the Boker, but great recommendations. :thumbup:

I have three Benchmades on my list of knives to get for over a buck, and my wife thought my Endura was expensive at 80.00.
 
There is another little known knife that I have. It's called a peasant folder by Svord knives from new zealand. The knife is really retro. A basic friction folder. But the steel is top notch. Sandvik high carbon, heat treated by Brian Baker. This knife will out cut my VG-10 easily. And sharpening it is a breeze You can order it from NZ and have it shipped here for about 30. The only us supplier is ragweed forge. The draw back is that. It's a friction folder. I personally like it.
 
That too sounds interesting, however I have only carried locking folders and I don't think I want to find out the hardway if I can edc a non locking. I'm assuming that is what you are meaning by a friction folder.
 
I used to like folders that "really locks". However these day, I personally believe that the search for the strongest locking knife has gone too far. I could under it if it was for a tactical knife. Working knives usually don't require it. I can lift about 15 to 20 lbs of stuff with the knife point hooked onto something easily with the Peasant knife.

There is another carbon folder called Okapi. Many people like it. The largest knife has a 4" clip blade with a ring lock. Its very wildly used. The price is good. But it not high tech at all. The up side is that it is very light and affordable to lose.
 
I think they look kinda cool. Is there any info on the blade steel. Is it a "high carbon" or does that matter. If I got one, it would be in place of an Opinel, so I am wondering if the edge retention would be better/worse than an Opinel. I geuss you don't personally own one though.
 
Here is what ragweed forge says about it.

They are working class knifes from South Africa. As such they have that "real" flavor that is often lacking in reproductions. The styles go back two or three hundred years, and fit nicely into an early camp. The blades are 1055 high carbon steel, tempered for easy sharpening and good edge retention (about a HRC of 54). The flat spring mounted to the surface of the knife is a style that goes back many hundreds of years, and works really well. The blade of the lockback locks solidly, and is released by pulling up on the ring. The others open and close with authority. Like many early knives, they are quite light and slender for their size, and are easy on the pocket, as well as the pocket book. There is an attractive metal inlay in the hardwood handle. This type of inlay is also typical of early knives.
 
Nosetotail said:
But your comment leaves me wondering if 1095 is considered the best carbon steel for edge retention, or perhaps just the best available. I am curious about Carbon V. I think I read in another thread that the name was just a trademark and it was actually another less commonly used but used nonetheless carbon steel.
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True, it's Cold Steel's name for a certain steel.
The steel was made by Camillus in its New York facility. Which is now, of course, closed.
Camillus used the same exact steel in the Becker Knives, and called it 0170-6C.
It was absolutely terrific steel.

I'm not sure if Cold Steel could - or - would put the Carbon V name to just any steel. I think it referred only to that particular steel.

As for 1095, it is excellent steel indeed. But I am by no means certain that it is the "best" carbon steel available for edge retention. Other carbon steels have great edge retention as well. One that comes to mind is W2.
 
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