That's a great suggestion, CD. Cold Steel really has strong offerings in this class. Here's how I'd divide 'em up.
SRK: strong sharpened prybar. Great for abusing, but it doesn't cut so well. You can see my article "How to make the SRK perform" for tips on how to turn the SRK into a knife that's not only strong, but cuts well too. Hint: it involves the use of a file and some elbow grease
Master Hunter: Strong knife, not a sharpened prybar but still very strong. It also has great edge geometry -- it'll cut, and cut well. But it's the shortest of the bunch, at 4.5".
Bush Ranger: Strong but not like the SRK. Even better edge geometry than the Master Hunter (wider blade so higher grind), for absolutely top-notch edge geometry. Very sharp point (but you give up strength on the point versus the SRK). It will easily outcut the SRK, and slightly beat the Master Hunter. It'll easily outchop both of them. 7" long.
So it looks like you have a wide range of choices involving tradeoffs in strength, cutting and chopping performance, and blade length.
None of these knives are partially-serrated. However, there's a better way to get serrated-like performance. When you sharpen the knife, leave part of the edge at a very coarse grit (350 or preferably lower). The lower the grit, the closer the edge will perform to serrations. This is by far my favorite way to achieve good slicing performance. It has the advantage over serrations that it doesn't bring the edge out-of-line, doesn't require a special rig to sharpen, is easier to touch-up, etc.
I'm also a huge fan of the Scandanavian-style blade as sold by JKM, provided you don't need prying-type strength. As cutters, these things are incredible.