Suggestions on Steel Type and Thickness?

Joined
Feb 9, 2014
Messages
53
I'm looking into buying some knifemaking steel (plate or bar stock, not round), but I am having trouble deciding what type and thickness of steel to go with. I'd like to use a steel that has good edge holding abilities and toughness to spare, and I also want the steel to be thick enough to chop and/or batton with, but not so thick that it will be difficult to sharpen to a fine edge. Suggestions please? :)
 
There are many good steels out there to use. You'll probably want to add some more information on the knife you're wanting to build.

-What processes are you going to be using to make the knife (grinding, filing, etc.).
-Are you doing your own heat treat and what tools do you have to do it (heat treat oven, forge, torch)?
-Do you want a carbon steel blade or a stainless one or either one work ok?

You can effectively make a great knife with very minimal tools, as has been shown by many. But, some metals lend themselves more to hand tool making if that's what you have. A bit more info and folks will be able to help you out.


Jeremy
 
the geometry of the blade will determine how difficult it is to sharpen to a fine edge more than the thickness you start with or the type of steel really.

I prefer stainless steels myself, "i am sure you will hear from the carbon crowd too"

440C is a great steel to start with and many places can do the HT for you if you are just starting out.

I have made big bowie choppers to small hunters and all kinds of culinary with it over the years and its a great steel. CPM-154 is another that i use a lot of along with CPM-S30v or S35Vn but those last two are tougher to sharpen.
 
Alright, thanks for the suggestions guys :). I noticed the comments about including more info, so here's more info. I'll be using an angle grinder to rough cut the knives, then finishing them with a bench grinder, files, and sandpaper. The knives I will make using the steel could range in size from 3"-10+", and I'll be sending them off to be heat (haven't decided where yet). If you need more info to give suggestions just let me know :).
 
Alright, thanks for the suggestions guys :). I noticed the comments about including more info, so here's more info. I'll be using an angle grinder to rough cut the knives, then finishing them with a bench grinder, files, and sandpaper. The knives I will make using the steel could range in size from 3"-10+", and I'll be sending them off to be heat (haven't decided where yet). If you need more info to give suggestions just let me know :).

Sounds like you are in for a rough ride.

You really should consider using something other than a bench grinder for the bevels. Files would be MUCH better. Bench grinders are just horrid at grinding bevels.
 
Sounds like you are in for a rough ride.

You really should consider using something other than a bench grinder for the bevels. Files would be MUCH better. Bench grinders are just horrid at grinding bevels.

Big +1!!
 
The steels with optimal edge retention will have very low toughness. For example, you would not want to use a custom k390 blade at 64hrc for chopping. If you wanna make it optimal, iit might be a better idea to get two different steels, one optimal edge retention, one optimal toughness.
 

+ 3 for that... actual even bevels on a bench grinder would be impressive. I used a bench grinder and 3x18" belt sander clamped upside down in a vice for my first 13 years of making knives and looking back im amazed I kept trying. however, if that's what you have, I got a couple tips that I learned the hard way over that time...take em, or leave em.
- find a way to mark your centerline.. scribe is outstanding, but an old drill bit sharpened and glued into a square block of micarta works.
why, you ask? because if you don't know where the centre is, your edge probably won't be running along it.
- make a file guide first and make your plunge lines with a round file (like a chainsaw file) before you ever fire up the grinder.
porquoi? because you want your plunges even and smooth... round is easier to get scrathes out and is stronger than square.
note... if you can't make a file guide, clamp your blank in your vice at the angle you want to file it... this WILL wear a groove in your vice.
- Real 2x72 grinder is better than angle grinder... but angle grinder is better than bench grinder.
Perche' you ask? an angle grinder with a flap wheel will be easier to keep your eye on the bevels and will be a lot more even than a bench grinder as well as a much smoother finish.
get good files... and use those before you think you have to. it'll save you from grinding too far to fix your mistakes.

buy the how-to book by bob loveless... its the best aid I had prior to the internet. and it'll give you a lot of answers if you read it.
 
Back
Top