Suggestions?

H

hessand

Joined
Feb 20, 2009
Messages
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I've worked up this CAD drawing of a knife, and I'm still very new to knifemaking, any suggestions? I'm planning on using a single large pin to hold on the bolsters (two plates), any problems with that, or better ideas on how to do this?
1237770269-KnifeCAD.jpg

1237770281-KnifeCADColor.jpg

Thanks,
Hessand
 
I think it's a great looking design. The recurve in the blade may make it a bit of a challenge to grind for an early blade, but challenges are good and serve as great learning experiences.

--nathan
 
Just as a matter of aesthetics, I would raise the nearer end of the recurve (the end of the edge closest to the user's hand) so that it's horizontally in line with the more forward lowest point. As it is, that corner reminds me of a fish's fin or something.
 
I personally don't mind the look of the wide recurve, but bringing it up would let you get away w/ a narrower piece of steel.
That is a mean looking fighter CAD rocks!
 
Five responses so far, but no one's answering his question, guys.

The first thing to ask is, why a single large pin? Will it be a decorative feature like a mosaic pin, or at least a contrasting material (i.e. stainless on brass bolsters)?

Second, do you plan for another way to attach the bolsters, either soldering or JB Weld? I would strongly recommend one of these in addition to peined pins. That way, if the single pin is going to add a decorative element then it (the pin) will not be the only means of bolster attachment.

If the knife is intended for hard use (it appears to be a fighter/tactical design, at least to me) and not as a show piece, and if you want a single pin, I would suggest using a single Loveless bolt rather than a simple pin. This would require you to drill a countersunk hole to create a shoulder for the nuts, but this would be a very strong mechanical hold. Almost overkill, really, but might add a little something different to the knife's appearance.
 
Looking at your pictures again, I just had another thought. It would require more work in the overall construction, but would be very strong. When you cut out your blank (assuming you're not forging), you could cut the tang to be a narrow hidden tang.

Instead of bolsters, make a single piece guard that slips over the back of the tang. You would fit it in place, then solder and pin it.

Then, weld on another piece of steel to the back that is notched to fit the narrow tang, effectively turning it back into a full tang.

I believe this is the method that Loveless has used on some of his knives.
 
Thanks for the tips guys!
NStricker- I was planning on the single pin to be contrasting brass on stainless, or the opposite. I was looking at it this way as I know that'll hold it very well, and wasn't quite sure of a better way to do it, but now I'll look into the loveless bolts, along with the welding idea. I'm shying away from a hidden tang as I personally prefer a full tang, and I'd rather try the hidden tang more on simpler pieces before I mess up a more intricate one like this.

Thanks so much!
Andrew
 
As much from a practicality point of view as an asthetic one, I am looking for a distal taper, in both the blade and the tang.

It may be a bit more difficult to carry off, but you will find that the blade loses little in strength, but gains a great deal in handeling and feel, not to mention making it much more a knife that looks as balanced as it feels.
 
I like the design. My suggestion would be (to keep the effect of the drawing)would be to use 2 small pins 3/32 of the same material as the guard. One above and one below the large hole you have in the guard. Peen the pins so when you finish it they disappear. Then use a piece of 1/4 inch tubeing to make the large hole in the guard shown. It would make an awsome forward lanyard hole.
 
Both of those ideas sound great! I'll definitely try for the distal taper, and that would be a pretty awesome forward lanyard hole. I'll have to write those into the design!

Thanks,
Andrew
 
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