Suitable Style ?

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pannebreaux

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Jan 8, 2014
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what style and size blade would be better suited for woodworking with chopping being secondary? i grew up with a US military machete and can do "finer" woodworking, trail clearing and hack through a log faster than a fiskars axe.

i bought a beater bud k 16.5" kukri a few years ago. after some sharpening work, i find it comes pretty close to the US machete with a slight step up on draw knifing and tight spaces. both weigh in at 20 ounces. definitely less stress on the wrist than the US.

i'd like to step up, but don't want to go over kill. i'm 5'7", 140 pounds. i'm not too concerned about the looks since it's going to be a working tool used in humid conditions. the shape of my bud k isn't bad, but feel it lacks some weight and edge retention.

what blade type and weight would you recommend that is 13"-16" long, between 24-32 ounces? i'm a bit concerned about the models that aren't full tang being less durable. but i also ask myself should i be questioning what has worked for hundreds of years?
 
Sounds like a KLVUK would fit your bill nicely. Size and weight in that range, not all polished and pretty but a real workhorse.

Many folks with lots of kukri's reach for the KLVUK when it's time to work.
 
They are all full length tang, although not all are full tang. There are people on this forum that have chopped a lot with HI Khukuris. I've just gotten into HI, and have little field experience with them. I have used a military machete a good bit. In my opinion, two different animals for two different jobs.

I'm sure a more experienced opinion than mine will arrive shortly, but to me, 32 oz is a bit much, if you're going to carry it.
 
I must concur with Bawanna about the KLVK. I have a couple of 15 inchers and they are definitely work horses. Kesar Lal knows his business and although they may not be the local beauty queens, the blades are famous for staying sharp in field conditions. Mine see honest hard work on a regular basis and have held up extremely well. My favourite khukuri is the curved spine, beyond a shadow of doubt, but were I limited to only one khuk, the KLVK would be it, hands down. They're also relatively inexpensive to the point that the competitor's models don't come even close.
 
KLVUK. Twice as expensive as a Bud K (aka windlass) khukri wall hanger that pretends to be a real knife but infinitely more useful. Heavy enough to chop but balanced enough to carve.

Has anyone ever broken a HI kangaroo tail tang or hilt? Has it even happened once, even under torture tests?
 
Well pick me up off the floor, Dr. Bookie concurred with little ole me, throw some water in my face. Using them big Dr words but I know what concur means.
I do have to concur right back at him that my favorite is the Curved Spine as well even though mine is slightly gooder.
I do have several competing for 2nd place though, be darn tough to choose.
I don't ever recollect a broken HI kangaroo tail. If it happened I never heard about it.
Mayhaps, karda or Mr. Wallace have heard of such an instance.
 
KLUVK or DBVUK are the way to go. They are exactly what you are looking for. A sheath is the only issue as they do not come with them usually. I know Ronin makes sheath out of kydex and ships fast. We have a couple leather benders too, Pugs and Wildmahn are both masters at working hide.
 
I agree about the KLVUK for all those reasons. In addition, the bevel on the KLVUK is typically a little more acute than some of the models, which I think would be advantageous for woodworking (especially since you wouldn't be whaling away with a heavy khukuri).

The weights of the KLVUK can vary, usually between 20-24 ounces, though occasionally a lighter one will show up as a Deal Of The Day (DOTD).


blue lander said:
...Has anyone ever broken a HI kangaroo tail tang or hilt? Has it even happened once, even under torture tests?
Click to expand...

There was an infamous video a few years ago, with the destruction testing of an HI Ang Khola. The last "test" involved a sledgehammer and vise, Painful to watch. In the end, the blade didn't break, and neither did the "kangaroo tail" tang, as I recall. The blade was bent about 90 degrees, and the tang likewise bent (like it's supposed to) instead of breaking.

I believe these videos are no longer online, but lots of discussion about it can probably be found in the HI Forum Archives.
 
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KLVUK = Kesar (or Keshar) Lal Villager Utility Khukuri

Kesar Lal is the kami who makes them.
Villager in this case means it's not as finely finished, for example they have the black forge scale left on the blade (similar to a Gransfors Bruks axe).
 
the klvuk is my kind of blade. i like the hand forged look and shiny would end up looking the same in a month or less, even with daily cleaning. the lack of a sheath is an easy fix with a section of pvc and a heat gun, lol. much appreciation for the info. i have a feeling this first one is going to start a habit as bad as my flute making addiction.
 
Being from SEUS and family for years in NO, as well as working offshore and shrimp boats as a kid, i know your area and if not looking for machete length and something more as a serious upgrade to the cheapo khukuri-like-object you own, this would be the knife for you....i grew up near bayous in another state....this will make the machete look flimsy without wearing you out....
 
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