Super Glue and Liners?

I use CA glue for G10 liners as well. To alleviate my fears of it failing, I usually drill a few blind holes through the liner and into the handle material. Those holes will get filled with g-flex later when I glue up the handle.
 
Just spent 30 minutes writing a reply and then hit the "reply to thread button". Lost it all. :barf:

Speedbonder 324 is probably the best instant adhesive for our needs, but requires a base and activator. If scales, liners, and tangs are sufficiently flat it can be used in place of epoxy resins for adhering spacers, scales, and more.

If you care to use a cyanoacrylate with some of the "best in indusrty" properties try Loctite 495.
 
I bought some Speedbonder 324 and activator a while back at the international custom cutlery exposition but haven't used it yet. It was highly recommended here. Just make sure you get the activator. I didn't know it needed it when I bought it and had to order it later.

The way I would plan on using it would be to attach liners when I had time constraints. One thing you can do to help bonding, if you're paranoid is, once the scales are glued/cured onto the scales, drill shallow holes through the liner into the inside of the scale. Then when you use G-flex or whatever to attach the scales to the tang you'll have some bonding of the liners/scales with the strong two-part G-flex epoxy. I haven't done extensive testing or anything with this idea, but it sounds completely logical to me and the knives I've done/sold have held up fine. I used G-flex not Speedbonder with this method though. Just the holes through the liners to add extra surface area for gluing the scales to the tang.
 
so you have to have the activator to use the Locktite 325 speedbonder? or does it just make it harden faster?
 
Don Hanson III said:
CA is fine for liners and many other things. That said, I use Loctite Speedbonder for most everything.
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That is some good advice right there.

I use CA and Loctite speedbonder,

On of the reasons I still use epoxy on some things is because sometimes I need more time to compensate for clumsiness.

Because once Speedbonder sets and iF the part is not exactly where you need it, you are going to die of frustration trying to get it off lol
 
AVigil said:
That is some good advice right there.

I use CA and Loctite speedbonder,

On of the reasons I still use epoxy on some things is because sometimes I need more time to compensate for clumsiness.

Because once Speedbonder sets and iF the part is not exactly where you need it, you are going to die of frustration trying to get it off lol
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Same here, only use epoxy when need longer pot life. Speedbonder is damn good stuff! CA isn't bad stuff either.
 
2P10 CA glues were way ahead of anything else when they came out. Titebond had something to shoot for when they brought out their line of CA glue a year or two ago. They are very similar and very strong. They both have thin, medium and thick consistencies, and can be used with or without accellerant.

That said, I use Loctite 324 Speedbond and 330 Depend whenever I can. 324 is perfect for tight fitting joints, but 330 is almost unbelievable. The directions actually say, "No need to de-grease, just wipe clean...", and it's still rated "structural".

There's no need for drilling extra holes or anything else. You do need to clean the excess from the front of the scales before it sets up, because it's very difficult after it cures.

It's especially good for vinyl, acrylic or "plastic" liners that are difficult to bond.
 
For a slip joint build using micarta (or similar) would these adhesives be good for attaching the material to the SS liner? What grit finish should be used prior to gluing them together?
 
Lo/Rez said:
For a slip joint build using micarta (or similar) would these adhesives be good for attaching the material to the SS liner? What grit finish should be used prior to gluing them together?
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This is where LocTite Speedbonder Really Shines!!! Grit finish doesn't seem to be a factor, as long as both surfaces are flat.
 
For my 2 cents, I use Loctite heavy duty 5 minute epoxy for liners. They claim 3500 psi strength. I have used it for several years now without a problem and it cures fast. Then I epoxy my knife together with G-flex for overnight cure with pins. Never had a knife separate yet. Loctite is fast and easy to use. I put down wax paper on a marble slab to glue liners on and put a can of soup on the liner for a weight to hold the scales tight to the liners. Clean up is easy and the scales peel right off. Larry
 
Do you happen to know if the heavy duty is good for extreme temperatures? Here it can hit -40 (or more) and I would hate to see someone leave a knife in a vehicle over night and have the scales separate.
 
Lo/REz, I do not know about low temps with Loctite because I live in So. California but you could buy some Loctite 5 minute epoxy and glue two pieces of molding together with a 5 inch overlap and leave it outside for several hours and then try to twist the pieces apart and test the strength. The guys who buy from me hunt in temps in the low 20's at the worst but I have never taken a knife back because of separation. You really should test whatever you use for temps like 40 below in my opinion. Larry
 
JG Custom Metal Works said:
I bought some Speedbonder 324 and activator a while back at the international custom cutlery exposition but haven't used it yet. It was highly recommended here. Just make sure you get the activator. I didn't know it needed it when I bought it and had to order it later.

The way I would plan on using it would be to attach liners when I had time constraints. One thing you can do to help bonding, if you're paranoid is, once the scales are glued/cured onto the scales, drill shallow holes through the liner into the inside of the scale. Then when you use G-flex or whatever to attach the scales to the tang you'll have some bonding of the liners/scales with the strong two-part G-flex epoxy. I haven't done extensive testing or anything with this idea, but it sounds completely logical to me and the knives I've done/sold have held up fine. I used G-flex not Speedbonder with this method though. Just the holes through the liners to add extra surface area for gluing the scales to the tang.
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ive always done this same thing... just in case. no complaints yet, and i do use CA glue for the new liners from tru-grit at their recommendation.
 
LARRYZ10 said:
Lo/REz, I do not know about low temps with Loctite because I live in So. California but you could buy some Loctite 5 minute epoxy and glue two pieces of molding together with a 5 inch overlap and leave it outside for several hours and then try to twist the pieces apart and test the strength. The guys who buy from me hunt in temps in the low 20's at the worst but I have never taken a knife back because of separation. You really should test whatever you use for temps like 40 below in my opinion. Larry
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I agree with the testing, but it will take another year to achieve the right weather conditions. I will check Loctite's website and see if they have performance specs on the products.
 
I began using the Bob Smith Maxi-Cure on recommendation from Jeff Mutz at TruGrit. It is some tough S***. I had a scrap piece from a g10 multi-layer bolster piece I made and decided to see how much punishment it could take, I used a 5 pound hammer and hit it as hard as I could against the concrete floor. It finally broke but so did some of the G10. I'm fairly confident in using it on liners and to glue together other odds and ends.
 
I also use CA to attach liners, but only between synthetic materials, then epoxy when glued to the steel. As a precaution I always drill divots past the liner on the inside.

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Pablo
 
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