Super sharp

S

S.Cox

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Oct 21, 2015
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made these two wheels today really make it easy to get a keen edge on your sharp stuff these are 8" to fit a bench grinder but can easily be made larger or smaller. Cut them with table saw and trued them on drill press
 
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My guess is MDF. Is there a grit on one? Or are they both for buffing? I'm going to try and make one soon. Can you go into more detail? Any info appreciated.
 
They are made of 3/4 mdf. One has some aggressive compound and the other with the slits has some chrome rouge on it cut them using table saw and crosscut sled then used a 5/8 bolt through center for a mandrel chucked it up in drill press and used some sandpaper and a chisel to true them up. They will make blades razor sharp if you want with little effort
 
Essentially they're just paper sharpening wheels, right? I have a set and they do work great. Got to be real careful not to over heat the edge though. Light pressure and short amount of time in contact with the wheel.

Mine came with white rouge and wax for the gritted wheel. I only use the polishing wheel anymore. Just to remove burrs.
 
Any difference or benefit to using these over a leather strop on the grinder?

Chris
 
Just be careful with those things.Directional arrows on motor is what a lot of guys do
 
I had one grab on me sharpening on top of the wheel and the wheel turning away from me.It ruined the wheel.It caught around the tip of the blade,not sure how.I've since
moved on to shapening & stropping at much slower speeds.
 
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I have a old bench grinder I turned around so that the wheel direction would be away from user and there is no extra benefit to using these over a leather belt! I just don't have a leather belt and had this mdf laying around shop. They work really great. And with any too there is some danger so be careful.you don't want your thumb looking like mine did this last month while woorking with some sheet aluminum and no power tools
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Happened to me too. We had two of those wheels as well, not MDF tho, one with a compound for sharpening and wax to hold it on the wheel, the other wheel had polish on it. Sharpened hundreds of knives on that set up, until one day I had the crap scared right out of my short britches. A very momentary lapse in attention, and that knife was stuck in the wall, wheel.....toast. Luckily it wasn't ME the knife stuck in.

Can overheat an edge in a hurry if not careful.
 
The thing I find interesting about those is that you have two wheels: One is running about a 120 grit, typically, one is running a polishing compound, thus your cutting edge is a polished 120 grit sawtooth edge.
A lot of people like an edge like that, but I think it's good to note that it's not a rig that gives you a fine, polished, honed edge, so I'm pretty skeptical that it's long lasting like a waterstone edge or one that has a stage where you're using a 600-1200 grit abrasive.
What do y'all think?
 
I've 4 paper wheels. Usually(as sold) the non-slotted is coated with 150 SiC grit and the slotted with fine white(AlO) compound of unknown grit (~1.2K-3K). Grit/abrasive moves at very high velocity (8" wheel, 1800+rpm), so the affective-grit is much finer than coated-grit. IME, 150 grit yielded around 400-600grit(depend on age of grit coat) finish; white compound yielded around 5K-12K grit(depend of grit age and swarf loaded) finish.

Not as drastic as Stuart's experience with paper wheel. My lapsed of concentration, some wheels are missing big chunk. They are collecting dust the last 2.5+yrs...
 
I've never used a buffer or any type of polishing wheel on a blade and so don't think I will. The horror stories have turned me off ... Using it on a handle is a different story , I can wrap the blade and tip with leather and duct tape
 
I own a set that has never seen a blade touch them. I won it at a knife show drawing. I read the info, and looked at all the possibilities, and decided I wasn't crazy enough to use them. I never gave them away or sold them because I wouldn't want anyone else using them either.

The big NO's to me were:
Too fast in both RPM and surface speed.
Very high probability of an accidental blade catch.
Heat build up would be unavoidable, possibly ruining the edge.
The only advantage I saw was speed .... which was why I wasn't interested. I can sharpen a blade very well in a little more time and not have to deal with all the drawbacks.

Personally, a home made set of these is just one more chance for a problem.
 
The polishing wheel is quite useful for making burrs go away. I prefer to do my final edge on brown ceramic, but for some commercial sharpening I use a 400 grit trizact and the polishing wheel. The grit that came with mine was 220.
It's especially good on lower quality stainless-stays sharp longer than any other method I've tried. Good blades I can do better by hand.
I've never had it grab, but I'm also pretty paranoid about that so I'm very careful with it.
 
Hey, close this thread quickly. Paper wheels are a religious topic and don't belong on this subforum.

That said, there's nothing new or remarkable about paper wheels. They have their place, as do all sharpening methods. Here's a good read on sharpening. Really good. PhD level type scientific data, not just a bunch of people spouting their unfounded beliefs about how they're right and you're wrong.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct...j1AYFAa_Q&sig2=QXKbMt2Wc2BU-D44SKyK8g&cad=rja
 
I feel like running most of this family of machines "backwards" greatly increases safety. That being said, my 8" wirewheel set likes to throw things, just not at me anymore... No picture but a coarse wirewheel decorates the hand in much the same way as a 14" diamond masonry blade. Nice and clean for a few moments before bleeding.
 
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