Super stoked on this Dayton motor I scored

B

BallewBlade

Joined
Oct 10, 2011
Messages
713
I got this motor for free from work, it had been sitting around for a long time. I had to remove some sort of clutch brake from it, but I wired it up and it works great with 110v. I will soon be using it for my 2x72 build I am in the process of, from plans via bjansen here on the forum. It will start life as 110v but will eventually be wired up for 220v when I can afford some wireing. Only bummer is the shaft is 7/8 so will probably just buy a 5/8 drive wheel, drill it out to 7/8 and cut a new keyway, which won't be a problem to do at work. Any input/advice on this would be awsome, thanks guys. :thumbup:





 
I know you saw it, but alert, 20 amp draw at 110 volts. Needs its own circuit.

Larry
Tinkerer
 
If it was me i would run a new circuit for the motor. Depending if you can do it yourself or not, some 10/2 cable and a single pole 30 amp breaker wouldnt be too expensive. EDIT TO ADD: That is assuming you only had 110 available in that area. If you can run to the main panel or a sub panel with 220 i would certainly be running it on 220.
 
It actually draws 22 amps at startup, being a capacitor start motor. They aren't the best choice for a grinder, but will work if grinding is kept light. Hogging may be a problem.

You need a 30 amp circuit ( not just the breaker). That means 10 gauge wiring.....all the ay from the breaker to the plug...and 30 amp motor rated switches and receptacles.

I would seriously look at running a 220 circuit to the bench.

The shaft and drive wheel mod will have to be done right or it will shake your bench like an earthquake.
 
As you may have already noticed. Sometimes trying to make the free things work, is more expensive than buying new things. :(
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
It actually draws 22 amps at startup, being a capacitor start motor. They aren't the best choice for a grinder, but will work if grinding is kept light. Hogging may be a problem.

You need a 30 amp circuit ( not just the breaker). That means 10 gauge wiring.....all the ay from the breaker to the plug...and 30 amp motor rated switches and receptacles.

I would seriously look at running a 220 circuit to the bench.

The shaft and drive wheel mod will have to be done right or it will shake your bench like an earthquake.
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Thanks Stacy, I'm not too savy when it comes to electrical, but I think you are right and I might as well run 220 to my bench. I already have a spare spot on my breaker box, its just a matter of tieing it in and running wiring through my attic.
I'm pretty confident I could modify a drive wheel and keep it balanced, we do that sort of work at my shop all the time, and our machinist could guide me along the way.
Why is it that a capacitor type motor isn't the best choice for a grinder?
 
ricky_arthur said:
As you may have already noticed. Sometimes trying to make the free things work, is more expensive than buying new things. :(
Click to expand...
That should be on a sign in everyone's shop. I'm to the point, I just want to buy something ready to go. Every day I spend working on the shop is a day I can't spend making knives and knives = $$$
 
Brian.Evans said:
That should be on a sign in everyone's shop. I'm to the point, I just want to buy something ready to go. Every day I spend working on the shop is a day I can't spend making knives and knives = $$$
Click to expand...

LoL. I just bought my first new electric motor in 12 years of knife making. It was so advanced I didn't even know how to wire it, but damn! It's sweet! Really wasn't all that expensive either. Hope it lasts 8 years like the old second hand one:)
 
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