Superglue as a finish?

D

dustfurn

Joined
Oct 2, 2007
Messages
72
Ive heard of using superglue as a finish on bone or wood. How is this applied? Just squirted on as evenly as possible? After it dries do you do some polishing/sanding on it?

Thank
dustin
 
I use it on non-stabilized wood. I take the wood to 600x then squirt some super glue on a piece of glass then use camera lens wipes to apply it (oh yeah, wear rubber gloves) put on a couple of coats, sand with 800x, couple of coats, sand with 1000x.
 
Remember, you have to used the thinned cyanoacrylate (not the common store Super Glue). Pop's sells a nice mix although I've seen the odorless (a nice factor) at Texas Knife but never used it. I just flow it down the scales from the ricasso to butt. Use your finger nail to chip it off the pins or tang after sanding with 400 / 600. Comes right off. And yes, latex gloves are a MUST!!!!
 
Oh yeah... if you have dust on your pants and drop some CA on it.... well the smoke you smell is coming from your pants/skin as the CA kicks off :) Used to happen to me all the time when I used to work cutting model airplane kits for Hangar One.
 
Ah, yes, the chemical reaction. Gotta love the burn!!!! Almost forgot about that.
 
Drip on a little and sqegee it around with the latex finger cots...moving right along keeping sortof a wet line!
 
TekSec said:
Remember, you have to used the thinned cyanoacrylate (not the common store Super Glue). Pop's sells a nice mix although I've seen the odorless (a nice factor) at Texas Knife but never used it. I just flow it down the scales from the ricasso to butt. Use your finger nail to chip it off the pins or tang after sanding with 400 / 600. Comes right off. And yes, latex gloves are a MUST!!!!
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Why is this type necessary? I am new to this, but have used the common store super glue twice on bone scales and been very happy with the results. I have just sanded to 600 grit, applied glue with latex gloved finger, sanded back to 600 then up to 1500, and then buffed. It has looked good, but is there going to be a problem down the line? Man, I hope not.

-Mike
 
M.Griffin said:
Why is this type necessary? I am new to this, but have used the common store super glue twice on bone scales and been very happy with the results. I have just sanded to 600 grit, applied glue with latex gloved finger, sanded back to 600 then up to 1500, and then buffed. It has looked good, but is there going to be a problem down the line? Man, I hope not.

-Mike
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The thinned out stuff penetrates better into the cracks, crevices and pores. Store stuff is thick and never does more than just the very top surface. If this is all you really need, then it will work. If you do mammoth or something that needs deeper penetration to "hold it together" then the thin CA is the best.
 
i was wondering about this too, thanks for posting the question for me. can this be used on stabilized wood too as a finish? or no
 
For the love of all that is holy, PLEASE wear safety glasses when you use this stuff.

And however you go about this, don't use the accelerator spray (I think it's mostly freon). It makes the CA glue foam, heat up, and discolor. Great for...well, it really isn't great for anything except making the glue dry faster.
 
TekSec,
Would that be the Super Thin or the Gap Filling Insta-cure your referring to? I used the hardware store super-glue to stabilize a white tail deer handle and I see what you mean about not getting down into the cracks as it is thick.

Thanks
Mark
 
bluejaunte said:
And however you go about this, don't use the accelerator spray (I think it's mostly freon). It makes the CA glue foam, heat up, and discolor. Great for...well, it really isn't great for anything except making the glue dry faster.
Click to expand...
Odorless cyanoacrylate in thin layers will not foam, turn white and is clear when hardened. You can build up several layers of very quickly using odorless cyanoacrylate and accelerant.

We use several gallons of odorless cyanoacrylate every year.
 
Chuck Bybee said:
Odorless cyanoacrylate in thin layers will not foam, turn white and is clear when hardened. You can build up several layers of very quickly using odorless cyanoacrylate and accelerant.

We use several gallons of odorless cyanoacrylate every year.
Click to expand...

Chuck yer just showing off spelling out cryocanatylaticate, ah f it!! 3 Times!!!
:D
 
For what it's worth, Scott Slobodian told me that he uses accelerator with his CA and he buys some stuff called Starbond made by CPH International. I hadn't tried it out, but had always wondered how it was that it didn't foam. Chuck has made me undersatnd.

Also, I spoke with these guys on the phone before, their glue is waterproof, according to the fellow I spoke to. I know this isn't the case with some CA.
 
"Scott Slobodian told me that he uses accelerator with his CA and he buys some stuff called Starbond made by CPH International"

Do you know which viscosity he uses and his methods? His finish is unbelievable!
 
Trace,

I had to look it up to spell it correctly! :foot:

The finish Scott Slobodian does is beautiful.
 
Well, there ya go. Sounds like the tech has improved significantly since I last used CA glues (building model airplanes some years ago). Thanks for the info Chuck!
 
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