Superspring SSA13 anyone know what kind of steel these are made of???

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benmk1984

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Dec 12, 2013
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I have a friend that is willing to sale a set of Superspring SSA13 leaf springs to me for cheap. I tried looking on the manufacturer's website but couldn't find any information and I called them but the engineer has yet to return my call. I was wondering if anyone here might know what kind of steel these springs are made of. Thanks!
 
benmk1984 said:
I have a friend that is willing to sale a set of Superspring SSA13 leaf springs to me for cheap. I tried looking on the manufacturer's website but couldn't find any information and I called them but the engineer has yet to return my call. I was wondering if anyone here might know what kind of steel these springs are made of. Thanks!
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As I understand it many leaf springs are made from 5160 steel.

That being said if you're not an experienced knifemaker I would highly recommend that you buy/use known steel to start with instead of salvaged steel. It will make life much easier when the time comes to heat-treat your knives.
 
Thanks Aaron. I actually just got a call back from the engineer for the manufacturer and he confirmed that it is 5160. I've been reading on heat-treatment for this type of steel. From what I've read so far most people oil quench 5160. I'm going to continue reading but any other information that anyone could provide would be greatly appreciated.
 
benmk1984 said:
Thanks Aaron. I actually just got a call back from the engineer for the manufacturer and he confirmed that it is 5160. I've been reading on heat-treatment for this type of steel. From what I've read so far most people oil quench 5160. I'm going to continue reading but any other information that anyone could provide would be greatly appreciated.
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5160 makes great hard-use from what I've heard. Oil quench would be the way to go, but be aware that it needs a short soak at high temperature in order to get all of the carbon in the steel into solution. A couple of people on the forum have discussed this in the past so a search should get you some good info.

If you're forging the blades then it sounds like your leaf springs might work well. If you're planning to go the stock removal route however I would stick to buying steel as bar stock, that way you can pick what thickness you want (those leaf spring are pretty thick), you won't have to anneal it (the leaf springs are already hardened) and you won't have to straighten it (as the leaf springs have a curve in them).
 
Be aware that used leaf springs from vehicles almost always contain micro-cracks. These can't be seen, and don't make much difference on a car spring....but can make a knife blade break easily. You would be much smarter to spend the same money and buy a bar or two of 5160 from Aldo or one of the other suppliers.

FWIW, leaf springs are made from many alloys today...5160, 9260, and various modifications of those and other alloys. Even if the steel is called 5160, it may have different alloy ingredients than the preferred knife grade 5160.
 
Thanks for the information guys. You've been very helpful. I did read about micro-cracks in leaf springs but I'm going to give it a shot anyway for a few reasons. Mainly, I'm new to this and would rather practice on these springs than some steel that I paid for, my friend gave me the springs, the only cost is that he eventually wants me to make him a knife. Also, there is about 90 lbs of steel between the two springs so I should get lots of practice out of this material:)

I've also got my fingers crossed that the micro-cracking will be minimal since the springs are obviously newer and lightly used.

Also, I am going to go the forging route so I'll be able to shape the metal to whatever I desire. Again thank you for all the information and advice and please if anyone has anymore keep it coming. As a novice to bladesmithing I can use all the information I can get!
 
benmk1984 said:
Trather practice on these springs than some steel that I paid for,
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Oh you are going to pay for it...lol

Consider this... You can get a brand new piece of 5160 .228 thick 18.7" long and 1.5" wide for $9 and be at your house in 3 days from Alpha Knife Supply

You would not build your home from wood that might have terminates and you should not build a knife with possible micro cracks. The $9 you pay for 5160 can possible save you hours of time not to mention $ on the other materials you would invest in making a knife from bad steel.
 
In the words of an old auto repair commercial, "You pay me now or you pay me later.....but either way you are going to pay me."
 
Okay... I understand. There will possibly be micro-cracks. I don't believe however that this material will necessarily be useless. For one it was lightly used and is fairly new. I've read that you can check for the cracks by heating the metal to a red color and look for dark lines in a dim light and to stay away from holes or the ends because those are the really high stressed areas. Call it hardheadedness if you like but I'm at least going to test the material out and see what it is like.

I would still appreciate it though if anyone has any other information about how to treat the material or other methods for testing it's integrity.
 
I don't understand. Guys with a world of experience give you their best advice and you choose to ignore that advice, but you ask for more?

(edit for spelling)
 
centennial said:
I don't understand. Guys with a world of experience give you their best advice and you choose to ignore that advice, but you ask for more?

(edit for spelling)
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I don't understand where the hostility is coming from. I said that I appreciate all the advice that has been given and that the engineer called me back confirming that the springs are made from 5160. FYI - I've also checked for micro-cracks while the material was coming up to temperature, banged a few pieces out into thin enough pieces to break them and I haven't seen any weaknesses in this steel yet.

I have no reason to believe that the engineer would lie to me and so I've decided to continue on using the material. It was given to me and free and my budget is a little tight at the moment. Since I am new and could use the practice I don't see this as a waste of my time, though I do appreciate everyone's concern. I am gaining valuable experience whether I use these springs or some other more "known" material.

So, proceeding as if this is truly 5160 if anyone has any more advice on how to treat 5160 it would still be appreciated. If not then I will continue reading and surely figure it out.

Thank you.
 
Thanks for the link to the article. That had some great information and was easy to understand. I'll definitely upload some photos when I'm done. My dad and I are currently designing/building a belt grinder. Hope to have it some time after the new year.
 
Ben,

It is not hostility at all. It is just we have seen new people come and go because they get discouraged putting a lot of effort into a built in problem.

When we say "use new known steel" it is because none of us want a person to have a bad experience making their knives.
 
Maybe PM Joe Carlton, he makes alot of blades and has a good HT for the springs he uses on his big ol choppers. Seems to have good luck with them.

Way I look at it is the first few blades or more you make probably arent going to be sold or survive the testing gods lol. I would be more concerned with the amount of forging to get that stuff down to a usable size then the other issues.
 
AVigil, I really do appreciate the concern. It means something to hear someone say they care about new members not getting discouraged and please don't think that I am being dismissive of what has been said. I will certainly keep it all in mind.

Quint, it is a lot of forge work for sure. The stuff is 5/8" thick. To be honest though I'm enjoying every bit of it, at least at this point in time. Maybe later on after I've put some time and sweat into it I'll get to that point of, okay time to get some material that is easier to work. Thanks for the advice on contacting Joe Carlton. I've found some good HT advice but I'll see if what he says matches up.
 
I know one blacksmith that uses half a coil from a garage door opener spring to make a Russian/Eskimo trade knife. I think it is referred to as an oloo.
 
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