Surefire T1A - worth the price?

YayILikePie said:
While not as small as that Surefire, I'd probably go with an ITP C7T. Using a single AA battery, it can put out 190 lumens with the CREE Q5 diode, while also being fully adjustable to as low as 6 lumens. For the price, it seems like a real winner.
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Wow what a neat looking little light. Does it really put out 190 lumens? Any idea of the runtime on that thing? I'd imagine it would have to be less than an hour given 190 lumens from a single double A. Seems a little long though. The length is about the same as a fullsized folding knife. Not sure if I'd want to hang it on a keychain but it would make a great pack light.
 
I really want that Polarion PH40 "Helios" HID Searchlight. That monster barfs out 4150 LUMENS for about 70 minutes! But $2,200.00 is a lot to spend on a flashlight LOL.
 
Infi-del said:
Wow what a neat looking little light. Does it really put out 190 lumens? Any idea of the runtime on that thing? I'd imagine it would have to be less than an hour given 190 lumens from a single double A. Seems a little long though. The length is about the same as a fullsized folding knife. Not sure if I'd want to hang it on a keychain but it would make a great pack light.
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That's what I was thinking (re: runtime and size).
 
Infi-del said:
I really want that Polarion PH40 "Helios" HID Searchlight. That monster barfs out 4150 LUMENS for about 70 minutes! But $2,200.00 is a lot to spend on a flashlight LOL.
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And here I'm complaining about $200 :rolleyes::D

4150 lumens is absurd! It must be like a solar flare. Someone posted a pic here a while ago of a modded or built-from scratch search light that looked like a gigantic light saber. I need to find that thread.
 
Infi-del said:
I really want that Polarion PH40 "Helios" HID Searchlight. That monster barfs out 4150 LUMENS for about 70 minutes! But $2,200.00 is a lot to spend on a flashlight LOL.
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I showed the specs to my son. (He's a physicist) He said that it's probably one of the few flashlight that has recoil when you turn it on. ;)




For the uninitiated, he has the same sense of humor as his old man. Droll. :D
 
JHerman said:
I have no problem paying top dollar for quality equipment and even have a decent collection of Surefires but the T1A seems like a bit much...

I've got a Fenix LD01 on my keychain. 80 lumens on high 10 lumens on low. And for the price of the T1A, if I break my LD01, I can buy 3 more...

The Nitecore EZAA is another option running on a single AA, putting out 130 lumens and also around $50.
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+1 :thumbup: two excellent recommendations, the LD01 is tiny and bright as hell I love mine, but I like the Nitecore EZAA even more, simple to use, no switches to break, good balance of brightness and battery life and the quality on the nitecore lights is outstanding. Personally I EDC a Nitecore D10 R2, easy to use with 100 levels of brightness and a memory that saves your setting when you turn it off. with a duracell rechargeable it can get around 1.5 hours on high and 60+ on low.
 
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UffDa said:
I showed the specs to my son. (He's a physicist) He said that it's probably one of the few flashlight that has recoil when you turn it on. ;)




For the uninitiated, he has the same sense of humor as his old man. Droll. :D
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I have a habit of high beaming my friends in the eyes with my flashlights as a goof. Usually we're talking 150 lumens or so. Don't think I should do it with this one. Remember in Indiana Jones when they opened the ark and their faces melted off. Yeah, Polarion baby.
 
The longer I have the M6 from Surefire the weaker it seems, 500 lumens is a lot, but I need a few more like 3000 or so.
 
Glock&Surefire said:
The longer I have the M6 from Surefire the weaker it seems, 500 lumens is a lot, but I need a few more like 3000 or so.
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I know the feeling. Once you get used to what you have, you're always looking around the corner for what's better.
 
Sevorius said:
+1 :thumbup: two excellent recommendations, the LD01 is tiny and bright as hell I love mine, but I like the Nitecore EZAA even more, simple to use, no switches to break, good balance of brightness and battery life and the quality on the nitecore lights is outstanding. Personally I EDC a Nitecore D10 R2, easy to use with 100 levels of brightness and a memory that saves your setting when you turn it off. with a duracell rechargeable it can get around 1.5 hours on high and 60+ on low.
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I used to EDC the Nitecore EX10... but it had two properties that put me off.

Firstly, it's water-resistant... but not waterproof by any measure. I tested it by dipping it into water, and got water inside... even after after I disassembled it, lubed it, and carefully reassembled it. This never happened with my Fenix lights.

The reason has nothing to do with build quality, but rather with the design. The glass lens on the EX10 is floating, and does not rest against a lip with an o-ring the way most other lights do. This is something I feel they should've addressed with the R2 edition... but they didn't.

Secondly, it's a short light... but it's still pretty fat. Ultimately, I relegated it to bag/hike duty, when I can carry it in a holster, and bought a Fenix LD01 to carry with me everywhere.

But to answer your question... no, I don't believe the Titan is worth the money. The EX10/D10 from Nitecore will do the same job for a fraction of the price... and you can get the Fenix LD01 for EDC - it's smaller, lighter, and has few components that can break. And let's face it - it's enough for virtually any task.
 
gnius said:
Firstly, it's water-resistant... but not waterproof by any measure. I tested it by dipping it into water, and got water inside... even after after I disassembled it, lubed it, and carefully reassembled it. This never happened with my Fenix lights.

The reason has nothing to do with build quality, but rather with the design. The glass lens on the EX10 is floating, and does not rest against a lip with an o-ring the way most other lights do. This is something I feel they should've addressed with the R2 edition... but they didn't.
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The EX10 seemed to be okay in this test...

I haven't noticed any problems with submerging my Nitecores in water either. Maybe yours is missing an o-ring?
 
JHerman said:
The EX10 seemed to be okay in this test...

I haven't noticed any problems with submerging my Nitecores in water either. Maybe yours is missing an o-ring?
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All the o-rings are there, and I've actually added a couple. My EX10 can be submerged, but the switch cannot be operated underwater... and even though it does not interfere with the function of the light during the intervals I used in my testing, condensation appears on the inside surface of the lens.

That being said, I don't go diving with it, and it's been fine in pouring rain, so it's sufficient for my purposes... which is why I kept the light.
 
Get the surefire i have one i love mine,if it breaks they will fix it,i am sending a fenix to aus, thatz fun.......
 
Good info all around, thanks gnius, and JHerman again. I've had my eye on the LD01 for a while now to upgrade the E01 on my main keychain. Maybe I'll stick to that for now, The slimmer/smaller profile appeals to me more for a keychain light.

BUT I am DEFINITELY going to pick up a Nitecore soon for larger pocketable EDC. I had to exercise great control last night while browsing 4sevens. :)

I really can't get into another expensive hobby....

Btw, that video was awesome JHerman :thumbup: Good info too Gnius, I like hearing first hand accounts one way or the other. I don't anticipate needing to use and operate the light while actually submerged, but better to have and not need than need and not have. However, if it's fine in pouring rain, that's more than enough for my purposes too. :thumbup: If it can take a dunking like JHerman's experience, and as shown in the video, that's definitely fine for me.

Punisher, you have the T1A?
 
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gnius said:
All the o-rings are there, and I've actually added a couple. My EX10 can be submerged, but the switch cannot be operated underwater... and even though it does not interfere with the function of the light during the intervals I used in my testing, condensation appears on the inside surface of the lens.

That being said, I don't go diving with it, and it's been fine in pouring rain, so it's sufficient for my purposes... which is why I kept the light.
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I think what Gnius is saying is that its a bad idea to actuate the Piston Drive underwater right? (I had suspected as much but never tested it myself) Actuating the piston causes the piston's O-ring to move which could let a small amount of water in, but this should not be a problem even if you are using it as a dive light because the SmartPD series of lights can also be turned on/off using the twisty function which will bypass that particular situation entirely. I wouldn't mind seeing Nitecore use a rubber seal over the piston button like clicky lights do for an added level of insurance though. 4sevens is coming out with their own series of lights soon called Quarks, and the specs and prices on them sound like a very good bargain.
 
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