Surface Grinder Questions

Jim Smyth

Jim Smyth

Joined
Oct 4, 1998
Messages
696
Looks like I will be ordering one soon. Any sugustions, Good or Bad about the ones you have? Price is a consideration but I would spend more for the right unit. My biggest problem is going to be that I have to bring it in the basement so those 1000# + machines are out. I basically only need it for 4" folder blades so the smaller the machine the better. I can use 110V or 220V doesnt matter. Can they be broken down/disassembled very easy for transport into the basement? Here's a link to the one that I like so far. TIA

http://www.emachinetool.com/accessories/catalog/large.cfm?OptionFamilyID=236
 
Several years ago I purchased the Harbor Freight surface grinder that retails for $999.00 and a 12" mag chuck for $129.00. It arrived and needed a small bit of minor tuning but has been an excellent machine. Junk the stone that comes with it though and buy a good quality stone from MSC.
 
If it doesn't come with it, make sure you get the stuff to true up the wheel. 220V would be easier on the house wiring. Only pulls half the amps.
 
I have that model of grinder, bought from Enco back in the mid-80's.
I had to bring it into the basement, also, and it does break down enough to accomplish with a two wheel cart or a pair of idiots who say "ah, what the hell..." ;) Idiot number one here recommends the cart method! Lift the table off the grinder and bring it down. Take the top off by the eyebolt and remove the 75 pound counterweight. If I remember right it was a bit tricky to re-attach but not terrible.
You can then haul the rest down on that two wheeler. It's not a one-person job!

I have a 110 volt model and it has never blown a breaker. A freezer runs on the same cicuit. Like Mike said, tho, I personally prefer 220 whenever possible.

I bought an Enco "Suburban" fine pole magnetic chuck (do get the fine pole, better yet an electromagnetic job if ya can afford it.

The model-maker machinist who helped me set this puppy up was skeptical as all get out and brought his dial indicators to prove I'd bought a piece of crap. By the time we'd shimmed the mag-chuck in and he'd indicated it, we found less than 5-ten thousandths drift from corner to corner. His comment was "Not bad!". High praise for a guy used to top of the line American tooling. A fine cut on the chuck itself provides a very true machine.

You will be happy with this unit. After many years, I have a bearing squealing occasionally, but the machine has never given me a problem. I did replace those three silly handles with a wheel to make it easier to use.

Enjoy.
 
Looks like it will be this model for sure then. Being able to break it down a bit will also help. I guess I will need a new surface wheel right away from what I have been told, also will have to see what the magnetic chuck looks like when I get it. I know what you mean about a few idots! LOL....Me being one of the 2! I have a very good/big friend of mine that has gotten a few free knives already so he's always available! ;) fitzo, I would be interested to hear how the chuck was trued up if you remember. From some of the other instructions I have gotten from some of my overseas machines, they dont have very good directions! Thanks again to all those that responded.
 
Hello, Jim!

Where you at in IL? I'm up in Waukegan.

Anyway, the chuck......

Get a pack of brass shim stock from a suppply house, or just some very thin brass sheet. The other thing you'll need is a good dial indicator with a magnetic base.

CLamp the chuck to the base and tighten. Apply mag clamp to the wheel housing and indicate the chuck face in the center as zero. Move around the chuck with the x&y wheels slowly and see how much difference there is side to side and fore to aft.
Loosen and insert a piece of shim stock the right size under the corner/end that's out of true. Re-tighten and indicate again. This will take several passes but it will get very close. For the final truing, actually grind the chuck to flat. Be careful of heat, as that is anaethema to flat.... take very small swipes, .001 or less.

BTW, my chuck has never been off the machine and I've only had to grind the chuck twice over the years. You'll be happy with this machine. Surface grinding rolled stock can be a pain, and necessitate fflipping over alot to keep stresses equal, but it sure does get precise.

Good luck. If this is gibberish, perhaps someone else might chime in.
 
something else I thought of...

if you get that particular model..
do not bang the stops against the pins traveling left-right. it lifts the table a little bit and messes up the true.
 
When I got mine I set the table on and used a dial indicator to check true and was less than .0005 out so I bolted the chuck to the bed and cheked it. It was out .001 so I just dressed the chuck and been running it ever since. I kinda like the goofy three arm crank though.
 
fitzo, sounds like it should be easy to true it up, thanks. I have a magnetic indicator thats on the drill press to meassure the depth of screw holes, it can be removed real easy. I'm in Itasca, 5 miles straight west of O'hare airport. I'm not sure how I will like that 3 armed crank but will give it a try to see.
 
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