surface grinder which one

2

22h2

Joined
Dec 16, 2005
Messages
160
I know this has been discussed before, but I can't search. I was wondering who uses a grinder and did you buy used U.S. or new import. I typically make folders and would like to purchase one. Thanks for your thoughts
 
In google, you can type in the search field:

"site:bladeforums.com/forums search for this"

and it will search only this forum site.
 
thanks 69 I actually found one of my old post talking about a similar question. I have decided to purchase a surface grinder. I don't if I will by one of the U.S used models or a grizzly. anyway thanks again.
 
Here is the one I use in my shop. It's a older one, it was made in the late '40s in the USA. It needed a new motor and some new wheels for removing metal. The only drawback is that it is a manual surface grinder. It is a 6x18 and works like a new machine. It actually a must in doing pocket knives. But some folks will argue that. One thing I am sure of, its a time saver in the shop. So, if you can get your hands on a new old one do so. I like using the white wheel and the pink wheel. It will be one of the best machines you will ever purchase. You may want to check out this link ---

http://machinetoolsforsale.com/MachinePages/u_norton_6x18_sgrinder.htm

Terry


Barkesshop10.jpg
 
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My Kovel's made in 1954, heavy duty cast iron body, i think provides a more quiet,ridgid, and to an extenet a more accurate machine.

mine is buy no means a "top of the line " unit, i think i paid $400 for mine, had drive there to pick it up (well worth the trip). didnt have to do a thing to it, other than replace the 3phase motor with a 110-220v motor. ($200). so for $600 and a trip to ohio, i have a smooth running machine, it also came with a magnetic chuck.

check this place out they have 50 instock now, some need work, some dont, and they'll dicker alittle on price with you too

http://www.hgrindustrialsurplus.com/


andrew
 
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thanks for the replies jll346 thanks for the link it works alot better. Andrew I have talk to several equipment dist in OH. it must be nice to have access to so much used equipment. I plan on making some calls tomorrow. A used surface grinder is hard to find in Eastern Ky.
 
About 12 years ago I called every machine shop with in a 100 miles, looking for an old, cheap, USA made grinder. 6 calls later I was driving 45 miles to Rolla Mo, guy said he had an old Delta Rockwell 6X12 back in the shop that he would sell for $800. Been a great machine.

My point is, the good old grinders are out there and not real expensive.

But if I couldn't find a cheap USA grinder I would probably buy a Grizzly.
 
A few years back I found and old Harig surface grinder at the shop of a used machinery dealer. I paid 400.00 for it and hauled it home.The first thing I did was strip all of the three phase components from it, tore it down and cleaned it really well. I put a new single phase motor on it and took some of the parts to a machine shop, along with some parts from a Grizzly 2x72 belt sander and converted the machine to a belt instead of a rock. By the time it was all said and done i guess I put roughly 1000.00 total into it, now I have a machine I would be lost without.I would be willing to bet if you dig around where you live you will probably find a used machine for not a lot of money. As Don said, if you can't find one locally, then the Grizzly is your next best bet.
 
Getting a surface grinder was the best thing I ever did for the shop. I spent $5oo for a 1960's Boyar- Schultz 6x12 and converted it to using belts for another $500. It needs some more work, again,but I never get to the point where I've got the time to really get into it and get it operating at 100%. So, it's like all the tools we buy, either a lot of money up front or less outlay of cash but more of your time for upkeep.
 
I agree....if you can get an older brand/model, do it. I looked and looked, and couldn't, so I wound up with an import 6X12" machine. Mine is from Harbor Freight. Before everyone rolls their eyes, let me explain. I did about 6 months worth of research on the import surface grinders before I purchased one. I found that EVERY 6x12" imported surface grinder is made on the same two factory floors, and there are only two importers in the US. The only difference is the paint and the stickers. Keep that in mind when you look at the different sellers. For the SAME machine, the prices vary as much as $1,500...and only thing your getting for you dollars is different colors and/or stickers.

I set mine up to run 2 x72" belts, and have been happy with it for over 6 years now. I think if a person is going to make folders efficiently, then a surface grinder is a must have.
 
can you buy a belt conversion or has everyone just made their own? thanks for the reply I always thought that a surface grinder would be a good investment and from all of the replies from top makers it has helped me make my decession. I never thought about trying local machine shops first I will start making calls tomorrow. Ed I have had similar luck as yours machine shop equipment is scarce around Eastern Ky
thanks again
 
I just got a new Harig super 6x12 its a sweet machine paid about 1700.00 for it 1977 on manufacturer date. Had a walker chuck and a ton of tooling and wheels when we unloaded it.

I worked down some folder parts yesterday it was so awesome to have such precision and accuracy at hand, money well spent.

dsc0224pf7.jpg
 
I've got a 1964 model K O Lee called the phone number in the book that came
with it and it was the same as back then! Mine cuts within 1/4 of a thousanth
or so. It came with a 6x18" fine pole ceramax chuck. I've benn using a boat bilge
pump in it for 4 years on the recirc - no problems. $700 (used machinery dealer)
Ken.
 
22h2 said:
nice grinder what kind of accuracy are you getting?
Click to expand...

I just got this last week after set up and dressing a new 32A Norton wheel it was nailing backspacers, lockbars, and blades all parts came off exactly to required measurement.

I picked this one up from Mohawk Machinery out of Cinn, OH, like I said it had all the tooling and Harig is still operational.

Upon inspection of the ways it is pretty obvious the machine saw little action, all the oringinal machining marks look brand new with no indication of wear.

I was going the same route looking at imports......most all the options suck imho.

Good Luck
Spencer
 
Here's my old beast :thumbup: She's a 1902 ;) Brown & Sharpe, still runs like a champ !! The thing is heavy like a tank, literally !!
I don't know how I would make knives without it. Virtually every knife I make gets at least a dusting, if for nothing other than to flatten out the ricasso/guard area.

If you're looking for a new grinder try to find one that already has a fine pole magnet on it. They work much better for holding down small knife parts. Blocking parts in with material that is a bit thinner than what you're grinding can be advantageous too. It prevents small parts from going into launch mode and also prevents exploding wheels :eek: Double sided tape works good for holding non-magnetic parts down, a little trick I learned while grinding carbon EDM electrodes ....... yuk !! Grinding carbon you'll finish the day out looking like a chimney sweep :o

Grinders that have the ability to run coolant are, IMHO, preferable to a dry grinder. Especially for grinding thin, hardened knife size objects. If you don't know what you're doing you'll end up with parts that are parallel for sure, but not even close to being flat. Two completely different things. It doesn't take much heat at all to cause warp on an 1/8" blade using a surface grinder.

Spencer, that new grinder of yours is sweet for sure :thumbup:

Beautiful even !! ;) Da*n, you get all the good stuff !! :grumpy: ;)

BSGrinder.jpg
 
I currently use a Boyer - Schultz #2, 8x18 and she will hold a tenth all day long. She is a little slower than what I really want which is another Brown & Sharpe Micromaster. That has to be the best machine available for the money today. When you run a batch of knives through and hold a tenth of a thousand on the entire batch, makes putting them together real easy. With a sine plate and small magnetic chuck you can taper tangs all day long without the dings the belt grinders cause and a finish that you can cleanup on a disk grinder starting with 600 grit. Whatever you get, recommend a power table over a manual.....lots quicker and easier on the arm.
 
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