Surface grinder won't reach piece?

After looking at the picture again, his spindle housing is probably riding down against the fence/splash guard around the chuck.

If tht's the problem, though, he still needs to send me the $500.

There, Daniel and CD, I beat you to it again. You young'uns are easy.:) :D
 
found the problem -- the tin shield on the column was stopping it from going down. I took it off and it went all the way, so I just redrilled some holes in the shield and it now goes an inch or so more. $500 to me. :D

By the way -- I bought a 3/4 karat dresser, but it came on a long shaft. Should I cut it down and mount it in a chunk of steel so I can have "clean" dressings?
 
Hey, how come you get the $500?

I'm the one who suggested you look behind the column!!:eek: :jerkit: ;) :p :grumpy: :D
 
Don Robinson said:
Hey, how come you get the $500?

I'm the one who suggested you look behind the column!!:eek: :jerkit: ;) :p :grumpy: :D
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Because I gotta pay for a surface grinder. :D

Seriously though; thanks for all the help.
 
I stayed out of this one to see if you all could figure it out on your own ,,:rolleyes: :D you all did good

Don Robinson said:
Look around the back of the column. Raise the covers up and you'll find something near the bottom of the cavity that is keeping your spindle from lowering all the way.
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Don Robinson said:
Hey, how come you get the $500?

I'm the one who suggested you look behind the column!!:p :D
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Don you said in back of the column, the shield is in front of the column :D
I want $250.00 of it ;) hehehe

Mike remember you don't have to dress an 1/8" of the wheel each time you dress it like CD is :foot: :D just kidding CD:D
CDiprecision said:
one to 2 years out of a wheel??..wow..I burn thru 7 or 8 a month,lol..
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:D
 
Dan Gray said:
Don you said in back of the column, the shield is in front of the column :D
I want $250.00 of it ;) hehehe
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Dan, there is a shield in front and back.

He owes you $24.95 and me $475.05:D
 
Don Robinson said:
Dan, there is a shield in front and back.

He owes you $24.95 and me $475.05:D
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but it was the front one right? you said rear..

OK OK,, $275.09 for you and $224.91 for me
because you posted before I did :D when you collect from Mike you can send me a M/O and deduct the postage ..no checks though
you know how knife makers are..:eek: :D :D ;)
 
No worries, I'll have my man in Nigeria get in contact with you fellows. :D
 
Burchtree said:
No worries, I'll have my man in Nigeria get in contact with you fellows. :D
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haha mike
I just shut down 3 stolen card numbers from a guy,, two last night and one just now from a guy in INDONESIA
trying to buy $7900.00 worth of knives :D this makes 30-40 numbers so far this year :D
this is his info with phone number

BTW these are NBNA cards, if you guys have NBNA cards watch your accounts for activaty that you didn't make just in case...

Name : Supri bagonk
Addreass : JL.Laksda M. Nasir No 9 Perkantoran Tg Priok Indah Blok G-19
City : Surabaya
Code post : 60119
Country : INDONESIA
Telephone : +62-81803395107
 
Dan Gray said:
I stayed out of this one to see if you all could figure it out on your own ,,:rolleyes: :D you all did good [end quote]

Now look here, Dan.

You didn't say anything until the "problem" was solved!!!

OK, I don't like to argue, so I'll settle for $499.99. You can have the rest.

That's my final offer and I'll stand by it.:rolleyes: :)

Hey, this is fun!
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Don Robinson said:
Dan Gray said:
I stayed out of this one to see if you all could figure it out on your own ,,:rolleyes: :D you all did good [end quote]

Now look here, Dan.

You didn't say anything until the "problem" was solved!!!

OK, I don't like to argue, so I'll settle for $499.99. You can have the rest.

That's my final offer and I'll stand by it.:rolleyes: :)

Hey, this is fun!
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hey hey now MR Don you look hear...
I explained why, and siad you did OK,, I was being nice
;)
$1.00 and a beer, you didn't say anything about not bartering for it:D :D

mike I have the guy in INDONESIA warmed up you need another good contact :D
I got 5 card numbers from him now..:D I'd offer you one of the card numbers but they don't seem to work now.. ;)
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Don Robinson said:
Dan, the next time I see you I'll buy you lunch and 2 beers.
Take care, friend.:D
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2 beers:eek:

now Don your not going to try and get me drunk and take advantage of me are you:confused: I only asked for one;)

that's something IG would try..:) hahaha
yes it's been fun . catch you on the flip side buddy:thumbup:
:D
 
If you remove the magnet and put a riser under it, you will need to grind the magnet in after you do this. This will be to insure that anything you grind in the future will be flat. You will need to turn the magnet on when you grind it in. This is a slow processs. If you don't have coolant, you will need a wheel that is "open" in structure. I wouldn't take over .0001 off at a time after a complete passover of grinding the chuck from front to back. This will keep the wheel from loading up. Loading of the wheel will cause heat and this will put the metal to the wheel and give you uneven places in the chuck. Put a piece of masking tape on the magnet when you are lowering the wheel down to the magnet to touch off on. This will let you know when you are close and will keep you from hitting the magnet with the wheel.Remove the tape after you touch it. If you have a magnetic base and indicator, you can check the magnet from side to side and front to back to see where the highest point is before you start. You will need to start your grinding at the highest point on the chuck.
Norton also makes a ceramic wheel that will grind cool without having to use coolant. This is the SG line of wheels. You can get by with a 3SG and an open grit structure. We used these wheels to grind broaches that were 9" in diameter and had 156 rows of teeth in the place that I use to work in and we never had any heat problem. If you like you can contact me at medwards@glasgow-ky.com if I can be of any further help.
 
Mitch Edwards said:
If you remove the magnet and put a riser under it, you will need to grind the magnet in after you do this. This will be to insure that anything you grind in the future will be flat. You will need to turn the magnet on when you grind it in. This is a slow processs. If you don't have coolant, you will need a wheel that is "open" in structure. I wouldn't take over .0001 off at a time after a complete passover of grinding the chuck from front to back. This will keep the wheel from loading up. Loading of the wheel will cause heat and this will put the metal to the wheel and give you uneven places in the chuck. Put a piece of masking tape on the magnet when you are lowering the wheel down to the magnet to touch off on. This will let you know when you are close and will keep you from hitting the magnet with the wheel.Remove the tape after you touch it. If you have a magnetic base and indicator, you can check the magnet from side to side and front to back to see where the highest point is before you start. You will need to start your grinding at the highest point on the chuck.
Norton also makes a ceramic wheel that will grind cool without having to use coolant. This is the SG line of wheels. You can get by with a 3SG and an open grit structure. We used these wheels to grind broaches that were 9" in diameter and had 156 rows of teeth in the place that I use to work in and we never had any heat problem. If you like you can contact me at medwards@glasgow-ky.com if I can be of any further help.
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mitch did you read that Mike found the problem with it :o

BTW some good info on grinding the chuck :)
 
Just read the problem was found. I know that takes a load off everyone. But I would still check the chuck for flatness. Anytime a machine is moved from it's original setting, the chuck should be ground in to insure accuracy. Up to the person with the machine. Now that the problem has been found, I guess it's time to get to work.:thumbup:
 
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