Surface Grinder?

Joined
Jun 2, 2007
Messages
1,354
Hi,

Does anyone make a surface grinder that doesn't cost a million bucks? (thousands I mean :))

Thanks!

Po
 
Talk with Macinery exchange in chatsworth, 818 718-6734 they deal in used machines, there are a couple on craigslist in LA.
 
Harbor Freight ... less than a thou. I then converted it to an abrasive grinder and it works great.
 
Hey John, I missed you at the Blade. Do you have any pictures of the convertion?

Yes please, what he said. :) Or if pics are not available, can you elaborate a little more on the conversion process?

As far as finding a surface grinder, keep hitting craigslist as previously mentioned. I paid 250 for mine on a craigslist sale and it runs great. Got a USA made 6x18 Suburban magnetic chuck with it too!
 
Ebay- there's a Boyer Schultz #612 manual surface grinder up for auction in Irwindale. This guy moves a lot of machines. The auction is going on for another day, it's at $102.50 as I'm writing this. Sometimes I wish I lived in So. Cal. just for the machinery. I got my Covell Automatic Surface grinder for $350 on Ebay. If you can find one get an automatic model they advance in the X and Y axis and are the best thing since sliced bread.

Mike Quesenberry

www.quesenberryknives.com
 
No pics on the conversion but...
1. Remove stone wheel
2. Measure the housing that contains the arbor that held the wheel..mine was just a bit under 3" in diameter.
3. Buy a short section of iron pipe in 3" diameter
4. Split one side of the pie lengthwise
5. Weld on two pcs of 1-1 1/2" angle parallel to you cut and about 1/4-3/8" apart when finished.
6. Bore two holes thru both angle irons
7. Put pipe over arbor housing and install two bolts to close and tighten around cast iron arbor housing
8. Weld a pc of 1 1/4 tubular steel to pipe about 24" long
9. several inches above pipe bore for thru bolt thru tubular steel...this will become the stop for a pc of 1- 1 1/4 tubular steel that fits within the 1 1/2 pc and a spring that give it tension for belt tension.
10. Drop spring down the 1 1/2 tubular steel and let it bottom out at your thru bolt
11. Drop the smaller pc of tubular steel down until it hits spring.
12. Thread and/or bolt a rubber wheel to the original arbor from which you removed stone wheel.
13. Using a 2x72 belt for sizing, compress the smaller tubular steel against spring and measure for a 1/2" hole to install tracking rubber wheel(2-4")
14. Bore tubular steel and install wheel.
15. Now the only thing left is tracking device. I simply used a bolt thru the 1 1/2" tubular steel to press against the smaller tube as when the belt is under tension it always pulls the tube to one side. I simply screw bolt in or out to track. Works great.
 
Leu I saw this one on eBay check it out. http://cgi.ebay.com/Chevalier-Falco...66:2|39:1|72:1205|240:1318|301:1|293:1|294:50

This is one I reworked back in 2004 and it is from the 1940's 6x18 surface grinder and works like a new one still today. If you can get a older one do so.

Terry

Barkesshop10.jpg
 
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I purchased, and have been using a 6x12 Harbor Freight surface grinder for a number of years now. Its been a surprisingly good machine, and when I purchased it it was $999 with free shipping. Its very important to purchase a GOOD mag-chuck, and forget about the cheesy one they offer with the machine. It cost me a new shop door when it didn't hold a piece, the piece tore off the guard on the machine, and went THROUGH my shop door and out into the yard! Afterward I purchased a good fine pole chuck, replace the door, and all has been good since.

Pics of my conversion for the grinder can be seen here
 
Mine is baically the same as Eds' but with a simpler or perhaps inferior tracking device. They work great bu tsome slipjoint makers think they cannot be held to close tolerances. The first time a tried mine I ground four pcs of steel place on four corners of the mag chuck and they were within a half thou. Even your belt thickness can be out farther than that. I was more than satisfied....and perhaps a bit lucky also.
 
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