Survival knife by hand - am I crazy?

D

DirtyBrad

Joined
Dec 20, 2006
Messages
79
I'm starting in on my first knife. I'm going for a heavy-duty camp knife along the lines of a Cold Steel SRK. It's going to be 1095 steel (which is annealed to start), 3/16" thick, 1 1/2" wide, about a 5" blade, and about 10 1/2" overall.

I've been planning on doing it all with hand tools. Is that nuts? Cutting the shape doesn't worry me, but I'm starting to worry about filing the bevels.

Obviously, I'm not in a hurry, but is it reasonable to think I can go from the cut-out to fully beveled with a whole lot of draw-filing?
 
With time you can. I have a family member that draw filed a katana length blade over several months. That being said, it will take a serious bit of dedication that many people who decide to make knives just don't have. I would recommend starting with a small blade and learning the ropes before trying to go to a full size camp blade. Once you've finished a knife you will be much more likely to finish the camp knife, in my opinion. If you start with a very large project, you may lose interest or get disheartened quickly.
 
Thank you for the fast response.

It's not really my way to get disheartened or not finish. A large part of the appeal for me is the time it will take. I'm also pretty set on the camp knife for my first.

My plan is currently to go from steel stock to cut-out shape via hacksaw, cut-out to beveled with draw filing, beveled to ready for heat-treating via sanding/stoning. I just want to make sure that's a reasonable path and that I'm not misunderstanding anything.
 
ive done it. it will probably take you the better part of a day if not the whole day. just zone out and have fun with it.
 
Of course you can! Go for it!

All my knives are made by hand. I just recently started using an angle grinder to save some time for cutting the profile and rough beveling. You might consider buying one as well - very cheap and powerful tool. Finish the profile and bevels with a coarse file, then a finer file, then sandpaper. Here's an example of the result:

0022.jpg


0052.jpg


008-3.jpg


Take your time and have fun!
 
Wow, that's faster than I was thinking. Was that on a blade of similar size? Do you have any recommendations past the tips and tricks on the site here?

I'll be working on this in the evenings after work. I'm hoping to have it ready to go for a December river trip. I tend to work slow, but my hope is that's enough time.
 
defaultuser, that is gorgeous. Really nice work. That's actually just the type of thing I had in mind.

My original idea was to powdercoat or park the blade, but examples like this I've seen here in the last few weeks have just been too nice for me to resist.
 
Whether it can be done on your deadline depends on how much time you have to spend on it. Why don't you fill out your profile and there may be a maker close to you that would invite you to his shop. You will learn so much so much faster watching and talking to a maker than by yourself.
 
madness522 said:
Whether it can be done on your deadline depends on how much time you have to spend on it. Why don't you fill out your profile and there may be a maker close to you that would invite you to his shop. You will learn so much so much faster watching and talking to a maker than by yourself.
Click to expand...

This is a great piece of advice. :thumbup:
 
It takes just the right amount of crazy.

The advice on making a small one first is a good point I think.
 
DirtyBrad said:
Would someone really do that? I would definitely love it. I'll fill my profile out, thank you.
Click to expand...

Absolutely,

I have people out to my shop (if you wanna call it that) all the time.

also, look into local blacksmith/knifemaker organizations

their out there, just poke around and you'll start finding them

I'm in NW Atlanta, Ga

if your nearby your welcome to come on over.
 
A new sharp Nicholson file is a thing of beauty. Read the sticks on the top of the page, there is one on draw filing. I don't understand the people who complain about filing bevels on a blade, it doesn't really take that long. You can have the bevels on a 5" blade in an evening.
Some tips I can share, use a new sharp file.
Files only cut in one direction, so don't scrub the file back and forth. Pick the file up, set it on the blade and make your cut, weather your draw filing or push filing.
Use some chock on the file to help keep the teeth from loading.
use a file card often.
 
It is truely a great place to start making knives. When I started making knives that was how I started. I tought a class at Kessler AFB in the mid 80s and out of a class of 10 students 8 compleated a full tang knife shaped with only a hack saw, safe sided File and sand paper. We hardened the blades in a Habatchi with a oscilating fan blowing acress the charcoal and tempered in a kitchen stove. When your interest increases and you begin to tool up you will be able to better appreciate what you do. Have fun and enjoy the addiction:)

Jim
 
Thanks, Jim. That's the spirit I'm going for. I'd like to try to go electricity-free on my first one, at least until the heat-treating. It feels to me like the right way to start.
 
Brad my first was done with files only and I now appreciate my cheap craftman grinder very much. Hope you have a good time with your project. Remember to post pics of your progress.
 
Thank you, I definitely will. I like documenting projects as I go, so I'll have a ton.

Is there anything beyond aesthetics behind having a clear angle between the back of the blade and the edge vs. a smooth transition? I thought the angle was done with thick blades, but defaultuser's picture looks to be very thick, yet transitions smoothly.
 
jim poling said:
It is truely a great place to start making knives. When I started making knives that was how I started. I tought a class at Kessler AFB in the mid 80s and out of a class of 10 students 8 compleated a full tang knife shaped with only a hack saw, safe sided File and sand paper. We hardened the blades in a Habatchi with a oscilating fan blowing acress the charcoal and tempered in a kitchen stove. When your interest increases and you begin to tool up you will be able to better appreciate what you do. Have fun and enjoy the addiction:)

Jim
Click to expand...


That's the way.
Also a good filing technique is always appreciated because it us useful in several occasions!

I do also by hand.
It's just a matter of time and patience.


just my2c
 
DirtyBrad said:
Is there anything beyond aesthetics behind having a clear angle between the back of the blade and the edge vs. a smooth transition? I thought the angle was done with thick blades, but defaultuser's picture looks to be very thick, yet transitions smoothly.
Click to expand...

The grind depends on the intended application, not the thickness of the blade. Here's a page explaining the different grinds. You can't make a hollow grind blade with files, but all the rest a doable; scandi and "saber" (high flat) are probably the tricky ones. The blade in the pictures is a very slight convex, with a secondary "v" bevel (the edge). Have fun!
 
What selection of files is best for this type of blade shaping? I was thinking a 10" or even 12" and a finer 6" before going to sandpaper.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top