Survival Knife: Fallkniven A1 or A2.

Im going to get the small DC3. What is the difference between ceramic and diamond...as in what are their different uses concerning sharpening.
Also...should i buy some sort of knife "lubricant" (no, im not into S&M :p ) that will protect the blade (humidity, corrosion, etc).

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I assume that if ever you do need to use a knife for anything, in a forest...its to chop wood.
If i need to open cans or anything, i can use a sharp rock.
If i need to make a notch, a large knife such as the A2 can do that fine.
What "finer" work would a knife like the A1 really help with that the A2 could not?

Diamond is the hardest natural material, so it has obvious benefits in sharpening: it will remove a lot of metal quickly, and can easily sharpen even the most annoying new supersteels that are a pain (if not entirely impossible) to sharpen with anything else. The ceramic side you can use if you need to remove less metal, in other words, if the blade isn't very dull and you just want to quickly restore it to high sharpness. You can "finish" the sharpening with the ceramic side, if you want the "best" edge possible.

I wouldn't bother with any oil or such on the blade. It's stainless steel, and pretty corrosion resistant. Just wipe it dry after use and it should be fine. If you really want to oil it, then mineral oil would be good - it's cheap and isn't harmful if you happen to digest it (by cutting something you intend to eat with that oiled up knife).

About the use of a knife in the forest, actually, to chop wood is one of the least likely uses. People nowadays just really like to chop things - likely because they don't get to do it in their urban lives, as compared to those that live in the countryside and have to chop wood regularly for fires. Many people will say that you need to chop wood to make a fire or shelter. This is often incorrect, because in a lot of places you will be able to find dead wood on the ground or wood small enough that it need not be chopped off, and shelter building can certainly be done without chopping anything at all (indeed, it might be wise to learn to build a shelter barehanded and without any other tools, if you're into learning such things). And this is even not considering the fact that if you're clothed right (and you should be) you may in fact not need any shelter nor fire at all. Again, many people like to make these things just for the fun of it. I certainly like to make a good fire and sit around it quietly. :) But I digress. For chopping wood, many people prefer a good axe or a hatchet to a fixed blade - it's certainly a much cheaper solution.

The finer work one might do really quite depends on what you go out to do. If you're the sort that just does a quick day hike with prepacked meals, then you won't need any knife - you can open the cans and such with keychain can opener or that rock if you'd like. On the other hand, if you intend to fish or hunt game or anything do-it-yourself, then there are many finer tasks than chopping wood that you would need to do and for which a smaller fixed blade would be better than a large chopper. For example, processing fish and game is much more convenient with a light, relatively small knife than a huge, heavy and cumbersome 8" chopper. The same goes for all food prep - even cutting bread or peeling an apple is a total chore with a heavy, long-bladed knife. Then there's always carving wood - for that, a small knife is always a million times better than a large, heavy, cumbersome one.
 
Diamond is the hardest natural material, so it has obvious benefits in sharpening: it will remove a lot of metal quickly, and can easily sharpen even the most annoying new supersteels that are a pain (if not entirely impossible) to sharpen with anything else. The ceramic side you can use if you need to remove less metal, in other words, if the blade isn't very dull and you just want to quickly restore it to high sharpness. You can "finish" the sharpening with the ceramic side, if you want the "best" edge possible.

I wouldn't bother with any oil or such on the blade. It's stainless steel, and pretty corrosion resistant. Just wipe it dry after use and it should be fine. If you really want to oil it, then mineral oil would be good - it's cheap and isn't harmful if you happen to digest it (by cutting something you intend to eat with that oiled up knife).

About the use of a knife in the forest, actually, to chop wood is one of the least likely uses. People nowadays just really like to chop things - likely because they don't get to do it in their urban lives, as compared to those that live in the countryside and have to chop wood regularly for fires. Many people will say that you need to chop wood to make a fire or shelter. This is often incorrect, because in a lot of places you will be able to find dead wood on the ground or wood small enough that it need not be chopped off, and shelter building can certainly be done without chopping anything at all (indeed, it might be wise to learn to build a shelter barehanded and without any other tools, if you're into learning such things). And this is even not considering the fact that if you're clothed right (and you should be) you may in fact not need any shelter nor fire at all. Again, many people like to make these things just for the fun of it. I certainly like to make a good fire and sit around it quietly. :) But I digress. For chopping wood, many people prefer a good axe or a hatchet to a fixed blade - it's certainly a much cheaper solution.

The finer work one might do really quite depends on what you go out to do. If you're the sort that just does a quick day hike with prepacked meals, then you won't need any knife - you can open the cans and such with keychain can opener or that rock if you'd like. On the other hand, if you intend to fish or hunt game or anything do-it-yourself, then there are many finer tasks than chopping wood that you would need to do and for which a smaller fixed blade would be better than a large chopper. For example, processing fish and game is much more convenient with a light, relatively small knife than a huge, heavy and cumbersome 8" chopper. The same goes for all food prep - even cutting bread or peeling an apple is a total chore with a heavy, long-bladed knife. Then there's always carving wood - for that, a small knife is always a million times better than a large, heavy, cumbersome one.

Awesome answer Elen. My criteria for picking a survival knife is that it meets all of the above. If i was lost in the northern parts, then chopping would be what i would use the knife for the most. Of course there are many types of shelters and sometimes they re made without you having to do anythuing (cave, hole in ground, hollow tree,etc) but im looking at what id do WITH the knife.
Anyway i think the A1 is right for me.
Thanks alot everyone
 
If you were lost and had one knife only, would you rather have the A1 or the A2?

I'd rather have a Busse! It laughed at Noss' testing and asked for more. That said, the A-1 held up very well, also, and costs less.

Since you already said you'd take other knives, then choose the one that will perform a function the others won't. It sounds to me it will be the A-2

A1:
Pros:
Less likely to break than A2.

Neither one is "likely to break" so this is a total non-issue

I assume that if ever you do need to use a knife for anything, in a forest...its to chop wood.

No, but that can be one function a large knife can be used for, especially if you're in a hurry. Going back to your "everything went wrong in the woods" scenario, one can easily imagine a situation where you need to build a shelter quickly. If you can find enough deadfall where you happen to be, great. But if not, you can make your own. This could include chopping ability, where the A-2 has it over the A-1

If i need to open cans or anything, i can use a sharp rock.

This is the second mention you made about a "sharp rock." How many rocks have you found afield that would be able to actually cut open a can? (not beat it open, but cut it open) How many would you be able to find when you needed it? One of your smaller knives should be a multi-tool or SAK that has a can opener. Get one with a woodsaw and you have even more capabilities in your pocket.

What "finer" work would a knife like the A1 really help with that the A2 could not?

Nothing. The A-1 is smaller and lighter, but not enough to really make a difference in carrying it. Those that might whine about the extra 1.05 ounces (that's right, barely more than ONE ounce!) need to work out a bit more !!

It sounds like the A-2 will extend your capabilities better than the A-1.

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I'd rather have a Busse! It laughed at Noss' testing and aske for more. That said, the A-1 held up very well, also, and costs less.

Since you already said you'd take other knives, then choose the one that will perform a function the others won't. It sounds to me it will be the A-2



Neither one is "likely to break" so this is a total non-issue



No, but that can be one function a large knife can be used for, especially if you're in a hurry. Going back to your "everything went wrong in the woods" scenario, one can easily imagine a situation where you need to build a shelter quickly. If you can find enough deadfall where you happen to be, great. But if not, you can make your own. This could include chopping ability, where the A-2 has it over the A-1



This is the second mention you made about a "sharp rock." How many rocks have you found afield that would be able to actually cut open a can? (not beat it open, but cut it open) How many would you be able to find when you needed it? One of your smaller knives should be a multi-tool or SAK that has a can opener. Get one with a woodsaw and you have even more capabilities in your pocket.



Nothing. The A-1 is smaller and lighter, but not enough to really make a difference in carrying it. Those that might whine about the extra 1.05 ounces (that's right, barely more than ONE ounce!) need to work out a bit more !!

It sounds like the A-2 will extend your capabilities better than the A-1.

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Sharp rocks can be made, they dont need to be found.
Also, the A2 is only two inches longer than the A1, and as you said it yourself, barely any heavier than the A1. Does that increase its chopping ability greatly?
Also, is it worth paying an extra 100 dollars for those two inches?
 
Sharp rocks can be made, they dont need to be found.

While true, you still need to find a suitable rock. I admit it's not something I've done very much of, but it sounds like you've done this several times. Could you share your method for making sharp rocks from round ones so they are suitable for cutting tasks?

Also, the A2 is only two inches longer than the A1, and as you said it yourself, barely any heavier than the A1. Does that increase its chopping ability greatly?

It's a matter of blade balance. The longer blades work better for chopping as a result.

Also, is it worth paying an extra 100 dollars for those two inches?

THAT, sir, is the question you need to answer !!

If you went with the A-1 and bought a Bahco or similar folding saw, you might be ahead, capability-wise, of having an A-2 alone. But, you'd then have two things to carry with you to exceed the A-2's abilities.

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Yes,I'd take A2 for blade length, 2 inches + . For fine or small tasks I use a Vic or Marttiini Linx ( 10 cm blade and sharp like a razor ) anyway, A1 is not appropriate for this kind of jobs, the blade is thick and convex.
 
I have an A2 and have spent time chopping with it, for fun and preparation for a fire. It does a good job, however the rubber type grip blistered my hand fairly quickly, first hour, so you must wear gloves or your chopping will be short lived as was mine and i was in the woods for a week. Oh and it cuts fine, i sliced onions and other veg for stews no problem, in fact the length was better than say the F1 for such chores. It is retired as my chopper now as i have a busse battle mistress LE on the way
 
Get an A1 and bring a cheap axe.

A cheap axe can probably chop wood better than an expensive knife would anyway.

And why do you need to chop wood so badly in a survival situations? Just find branches. If you wanna make a fire you don't need logs. Plus, if you're going to be chopping wood it would just be to get it down to a size that a branch would be.

In addition, if you want to make a shelter or something, you won't need heavy logs for that either and you can chop the right branches just fine with an A1. Survivorman makes shelters all the time and not once has he used a huge knife. If anything he used an axe in one episode.

Save some money, and keep some practicality. I don't see the point in huge knives anyhow. Just get an axe or machete.
 
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Save some money, and keep some practicality. I don't see the point in huge knives anyhow. Just get an axe or machete .

For me personally I don't see the point of small knives only in the field. I can do everything I need to with a good 9 or 10 inch blade. I have started carrying a small knife a Cold Steel roach Belly just for a clean knife for food prep since my big knife gets dirty from work but my last 2 trips out I never retrieved it from my pack. And I never recall being outdoors and needing a small knife. I do everything with a big knife,currently my Busse FBM. I dig. I chop, I baton, I whittle sticks for cooking meat over the fire.

Some jobs can be easier with a small blade but I can still do them with a big knife plus more with less effort. For me big is where it's at.
The A1 is about as small as I would want to go in a fixed blade outdoors but this is small for my taste.

To each his own :thumbup:
 
While true, you still need to find a suitable rock. I admit it's not something I've done very much of, but it sounds like you've done this several times. Could you share your method for making sharp rocks from round ones so they are suitable for cutting tasks?


Porous rocks tend to be easier to break due to the air pockets. Throwing one really hard on the ground will break it and there you go. Sharp edges to go around.
Another method is to to grab a somewhat "sharp" rock (more eliptical in shape really) and chipping away slowly at another somewhat oval rock. This process is slow but it works. It's not that hard. Just think cave man.
You work outwards and slowly go in. Always striking in the same direction. This is the best picture i could find to describe what i mean.
fig12-3.gif

There's really nothing to it.

I think for now i am convinced that the A1 is acceptable. When i have some more cash i'll get the A2.

Thanks everyone. I appreciate your input :D
 
One thing that I noticed is that A2 is not only 4cm longer than A1 but its blade is also 3mm wider.

Considering the comparison with the Battle mistress (BM) in the previous post, it should be noted that the tip of the mistress is very thick, thus its penetration is much worst during stabbing compared to A2. Also the balance of the BM is for chopping while the A2 is much better all around knife that can be used with significantly less efforts for food preparation and carving.


Compared to axe or hatchet A2 is lighter but as the noss4 test showed the Gransfords hatchet survived the test that broke the tough Battle mistress, thus a hatchet or small axe could also be a viable alternative to a chopper.
 
Considering the comparison with the Battle mistress (BM) in the previous post, it should be noted that the tip of the mistress is very thick, thus its penetration is much worst during stabbing compared to A2.

What, exactly, do you anticipate stabbing afield where penetration is a concern?

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Compared to axe or hatchet A2 is lighter but as the noss4 test showed the Gransfords hatchet survived the test that broke the tough Battle mistress, thus a hatchet or small axe could also be a viable alternative to a chopper.

Yes, hatchets are a good option, and very popular in many regions of the world.

As far as the Battle Mistress test is concerned, actually, no, the Gransfors did not survive the test that broke the Battle Mistress. The Gransfors was used to baton through steel tubing, once. It succeeded in that, and was not tested further on steel tubing. The Battle Mistress, on the other hand, was used to baton through steel tubing, once - and it survived that, just like the Gransfors had survived it. The Battle Mistress was then used to baton through the same steel tubing again, for the second time, and it survived that, too, until it struck a weld line, at which point it was pounded on for a moment and then it broke. So, in fact, the Gransfors was never put into the same situation that broke the Battle Mistress, which is to say being batoned against a weld line in the steel tubing, after having already cut through the tubing once. Now, perhaps the Gransfors might have survived that, too - it's softer steel than the Battle Mistress. But fact remains it was not put through that test, so we do not know.

As far as the tip is concerned, some people like digging in wood or similar materials with the tip, in which case a thicker tip can be problematic. Personally, I'd do that with a smaller knife anyway, because it would be lighter in the hand.
 
This thread needs pictures.....A1 because I'm biased and have not used the A2. And, the A1 packs a lots of cutting power in a small package (usually carry Busse), the grind makes it a superb chopper given its relatively short blade and overall its light.

IMG_4734_zpsc4f8672c.jpg~original


IMG_3491.jpg~original
 
Current posts 36 and 37 are almost 5 and a half years after the previous post.
Keep this in mind as you address earlier posters.
 
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