Recommendation? Survival knife

Given that you are an emergency responder in the Rockies, I'd say something that is good to handle in the cold without gloves, i.e. with an enclosed tang and not a tang with scales that leaves naked steel exposed. Second, forget about turning it into a spear. You use it to cut sharp tips on multiple strong wooden sticks so you have an arsenal, and prevent the knife from getting stuck in Bigfoot while it is running away into the woods. Self defense is more theory than reality as well, just see the thread in this forum that asks soldiers who serve or have served what they use/used, where most answer 'a SAK and a multitool' and someone notes that carrying a 'fighting' knife is mostly to feel good, as a kind of talisman. Me have big knife, me great warrior, feel armed. Forget about staying literally razor sharp, get something that holds a good working edge and is easy to sharpen in the field. Every knife goes dull, one just a bit faster than the other.
Being European, I'd advise you to look at some Scandinavian stuff. The Finns used knives to survive in their endless boreal forests during their winter war against Stalin's Soviet army, and were to date the only people sharing a border with soviet Russia who managed to fight them off and avoid becoming part of the soviet bloc. Apparently they built hidden saunas with their knives and took turns sweating in those before going out into the snow again to harass the enemy.
Two (or maybe three) suggestions of blades available from that part of the world: yes, the Skrama, which is about the best midweight chopper you can get, made from ridiculously tough 80CrV2 tool steel, and a fantastic delimbing tool. Ten inch blade, full (but covered) tang, weighs about a metric pound without a sheath and comes with a very nice leather sheath for less than 100 dollars total. You can also use it as a prybar to rescue someone I guess. But carry it strapped to a pack, not on your belt. If you want an allround mid-sized knife, try a Peltonen Sissipuukko M95 (Sissi is Finnish for 'guerilla' and if you get hold of this thing you'll understand why; they also call it the Ranger knife). Also made from 80CrV2 tool steel, very tough, six-inch blade, Teflon coated, very high flat grind with a secondary bevel, good slicer, nice rakish tip if you need it as a pig sticker, good for preparing food, but you can also use it to scrape mud out of tank tracks, and it shops wood well above its weight. Comes in an ambidextrous hard plastic sheath that can be carried on the belt or upside down on a harness. Also around the 100-dollar mark when purchased directly from Finland and not through a northamerican importer with a 100 percent markup.
Third, as an alternative for the Peltonen M95, the Terava Jaakkaripuukko 140. The 'jeager puukko', like the Peltonen very popular amongst Finnish conscripts who all have to bring and thus buy their own knives for their stints in the army. Same 80CrV2 steel again, hard rubber handle with a full but covered tang, a sturdier tip than the Peltonen but also a pretty high grind (not a scandi but a sabre grind), sharpened spine for scraping, very good leather sheath. Around 70 dollars if bought (like the Skrama) from the somewhat famous Varusteleka military supply store in Helsinki over the internet (you get the Peltonen from Lamnia, also in Finland).
None of these are especially pretty, they are purely functional and get the job done.
You may have a few dollars left to throw a Mora Companion in your pack as a backup. ;-)

(Note that I'm not a survival expert and can't compare with many US made blades. But I have the above and use them frequently on our property with lots of trees and bushes that need pruning, fences to repair, prop-up sticks for the veggy garden that need pointy tips, firewood that must be split and so on. They all do their job. Haven't needed to fight off werewolves with them.)
 
If you want a do it all knife you probably want a full tang, a kabar is a rat tail tang and is somewhat weaker. I would get an esee 6. It's got micarta handles and is in 1095. You won't regret it even though it's a bit more cash.
 
you will get as many suggestions as there are knives ...

try to list some of the main uses you can envision yourself doing ... and what your needs would be if you were stranded in an actual survival situation ... or if you were trying to help others survive and get them home safely ...

from that list we can give you much better targeted answers and suggestions ...

and if you have a cost limit in mind that can help a lot too ... and having been a volunteer fireman and on search and rescue teams ... you might find two or three knives/tools may better serve all of your needs much better then one big knife ...

and thanks for your time helping those that need it.
 
You're on the right track with Buck.

You need a stainless steel blade for a survival knife.......you'll be too busy to spend time dealing with rust.

Today's 420HC holds an edge well and is not hard to resharpen. Your bad experience with an old Buck was with 440C.......which WAS hard to sharpen.

Either the Buck 120 or the Buck 124 would work well for your needs.
 
I second the ESEE 6. This one just works. If mine were ever lost, I would buy a new one. This is coming from a knife nut who has owned and used an embarrassing amount of knives.
 
Just to throw my 2 cents in here for a wilderness situation, In my opinion you would be better off with a 4-6 inch knife and to get a folding saw for cutting wood. Chopping requires much more energy than a saw does. I think the best set up, would be a small saw, a larger knife 6-8 inch and a small 3-4 inch knife. Its a lot of weight though which is the trade off. I would also recommend if you really think you have a chance of being stuck in the woods, get some training. You will be happy you did if you need it!

I would also recommend not using a knife as a spear. You would be better off sharpening a stick and using that instead of your knife. Most blades are not designed to be thrown, and if you impact something hard may break your knife or at least put some big chips in the blade. So long as you left a trip plan with someone, you should not be lost long, and the chances of you needing a spear for defense or being successful in hunting with a spear are slim. If you think you need a defensive tool, Look into a firearm. Its worlds better than a spear. :)

Basically if you are stuck for a few days, your biggest priority's will be shelter, fire, and water. You can die in several hours from exposure, you can live about 3 days with out water and 30 days+ with out food. In my experience shelters are much easier to make with both a saw and smaller knife than just a big knife. Also most small full tang knives are capable of being battoned if the need would arise.

Although I dont usually use my knife just for chopping, I found the Fallkniven A1 to be a good size to both chop and still do small tasks. I would highly recommend the Fallkniven A1, bark river Aurora, Mora companion, or bark river gunny all as good knives. I have no experience with the kabar Becker but I have heard it is a good knife, I have also heard good things about the ESEE 6. I was at a class awhile ago and part of what we did was to make hickory self bows. the logs where about 3-4 inches wide and 6 feet tall. We had to remove enough wood to get a bow out of it. (almost the whole log...) With the Fallkniven A1 and silky saw I was the first one done. I was more efficiently removing wood than gransfer bruks hatchets / axes, kukris, kabar bekker, ESEE, and bark river bravos and machetes. Despite my blade only being 6inches long. :) I think the convex grind makes a big difference in the chopping power of a blade.

Most people just focus on gear for survival, Its much more about your mindset, training, and will to live and actually carrying the gear you have in my opinion. Or you end out being lost with only a kershaw freefall... Don't ask me how I know.:)
 
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If you want a do it all knife you probably want a full tang, a kabar is a rat tail tang and is somewhat weaker. I would get an esee 6. It's got micarta handles and is in 1095. You won't regret it even though it's a bit more cash.

The classic Kabar USMC is. Many Kabars are not. Like the Kabar Beckers.
 
Toss in a handgun... sure beats a stupid spear. I agree that the most flexible size is in the 5" area for the outdoors. If I am planning on chopping, I take something specifically for chopping. Not going to carry some big knife just for the possible need that I might have to chop something to make a fire that my 5" knife can't handle.

M marcinek What Becker's have a reduced tang? Can't think of any. That said, reduced tang knives (generally with an enclosed handle) are just fine as long as you beat them to death. Even then, they would likely be just fine.
 
The "survival knife" idea is very appealing. It sucks me in every time! I love the idea that at any moment my life will be on the line with only my wits and my trusty knife to rely on for survival.

It's a fun fantasy.

If you are itching for a fixed blade, what is probably most practical is to think about what fixed blade would be most useful int e 99.99999999% of your life whan you are not in a super awesome survival fantasy.

A nice 3-6 fixed blade would be great for real life, even outdoors. Fallkniven F1 is a personal favorite, but since Kabar was brought up, I will suggest the Kabar Mark 1 for its full flat grind. Like the USMC Kabar it is a knife that has proven itself during tough conditions and its full stick tang did not fail.

That said, there is nothing wrong with the bigger Kabar Beckers or Ontario Rangers (bombproof), if your that is what your heart (or whatever part of us makes us want big awesome knives) desires! They ate excellent knives.
 
M marcinek What Becker's have a reduced tang? Can't think of any. That said, reduced tang knives (generally with an enclosed handle) are just fine as long as you beat them to death. Even then, they would likely be just fine.

That is what I said. Many Kabars are not rat tail tangs. Saying "a kabar is a rat tail tang" is untrue.
 
These suggestions are very interesting.
Your using a folder for most task so I’d say you have something around 3 to 3.5 inch folder. A 4 to 6 inch fixed blade is where you want to look.
Forget the sheath it comes in as you can put it in a backpack. You have that folder. Worry about the grip. You can have the best sheath in the world but the knife grip isn’t for your hand.
Second is steel. 1095 is a good place to start. Easiest to sharpen but does dull a little faster. If your not using it as much then you shouldn’t be touching it up that much. You may be able to find a stainless blade but prices usually a little higher in same model.

For price range a Becker 16 and larger or esee 4 or 6 is hard to beat. The scales can be sanded to fit hand a little better. Can also by custom scales or custom sheath later on. Look on the exchange for some good deals.
 
One needs to distinguish between car camping and backpack camping in terms of gear that you are likely to choose. With car camping, you can pretty much bring everything except the kitchen sink to mess with at the fixed camp site. Certainly having an assortment of knives with you is not out of the question and likely not a survival situation. Backpacking, you are likely packing more items for over night stays and fewer things like knives that you seldom use.

The other scenario are longish walks in the woods where you might get hurt and it becomes a survival situation, at least short term. Plus you likely have not really told anyone precisely where you went or when you will be back. So, plan your day pack carefully for that 1% chance if it's important to you.
 
I would just like to know what kind of Local Emergency Response Team has on page one of the playbook " chopping wood and spears if needed".

Not sure if I'd be dialing them first; might call one county to the right.
 
Gerber’s LMF II , albeit a touch heavy and not the best balanced in the hand, is IMO , the “ best bang for the buck”survival knife, on the market. I would rate it just under a Randall or Busse class knife. And well under $100. 4.8” , 3/16th” thick, 420H SS blade, back half serrated, 3/4 full tang, interrupted only so you can safely cut a live wire ( see on-line testimonial by US soldiers), hammer and glass breaker butt end, and plenty of lash holes for spear set-up ( although I would never do that) and heavy duty sheath with built-in sharpener, Molle and belt attachments. Google Knife Tests destruction video to see it in action

Easy to accessorize by using Ranger bands on the sheath to add a ferro rod, bic lighter, survival capsule with matches, water-pur tabs, tinder & HD needle and thread and an AAA waterproof flashlight. With the LMF II, a nylon belt bag or small fanny pack containing : a LM Wave and a 4-way Silcock Key, very compact Petzl E+ Lght headlamp, water purifier straw , water bottle or bags, AMK survival blanket, disposable poncho or compact sil-tarp poncho, small first aid kit ( augmented with antibiotics, pseudophedrine tabs, , 8 chewable small aspirins, painkillers of choice and caffeine tabs), bagged well ironed large cotton bandannas, 2” x 10 flat rolled” Gorilla Tape , 25’ 550 cord or the newer more compact Kevlar cords, 10-15 Sour Ball candies in a zip-look baggie and approppriate clothing and shoes/ boots, you could survive in a multitude of environments. In an urban enviornment I’d add a tiny AM-FM radio and a Channel Lock 88 Rescue Tool . I’m also assuming that you have ID, Credit Card, Cell phone and Mophie/ extra battery and ~$500 in $10s& $20s.
 
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Gerber’s LMF II , albeit a touch heavy and not the best balanced in the hand, is IMO , the “ best bang for the buck”survival knife, on the market. I would rate it just under a Randall or Busse class knife. And well under $100. 4.8” , 3/16th” thick, 420H SS blade, back half serrated, 3/4 full tang, interrupted only so you can safely cut a live wire ( see on-line testimonial by US soldiers), hammer and glass breaker butt end, and plenty of lash holes for spear set-up ( although I would never do that) and heavy duty sheath with built-in sharpener, Molle and belt attachments. Google Knife Tests destruction video to see it in action.
I guess you have Busse's and Randalls to compare it too. I love it when folks are so absolutely certain with their recommendations.
 
I guess you have Busse's and Randalls to compare it too. I love it when folks are so absolutely certain with their recommendations.

.22 rim fire, your right, there are a lot of “posers” on the net. But I’m an older guy, reasonably successful monetarily and I do personally own a Randal Model 18, Model 16-1 Border Patrol and a Model 14, all in SS. My cousin and hiking partner has Busses and Falkhavens. So I have actually compared.
 
I use a Buck 124 for camping and all my outdoor activities, it’s full tang, 420hc hollow ground blade 6 1/4 inches. Black micarta handle slabs weighing in at 13.5 oz. The blade is a bit thicker than the 119 at 10 oz so it’s stout. I use it for some of my camp food prep, wood slivers for fire, removing smaller limbs and switches on trees, making tent stakes and the occasional turtles that steal my bait among other tasks. It’s plenty rugged for heavy use, while I use an axe to split wood I’ve seen others use their 124 battening to split wood with no problem. It stays sharp a good while and it’s easy to touch up the edge to hair popping sharp. I’ve never been disappointed with it and recommend it highly.
 
I hesitate with the Buck brand for I bought one when in the military back in 1974 and have yet to get an edge on it. I want a razor sharp edge that will last.

Send it in to Buck for a SPA treatment. (around $6.95, without a blade change.) They changed the edge geometry around 2000.
Buck will upgrade the edge geometry for you during the SPA treatment if you ask them to.
Your knife will come back looking like new.

Your 1974 Buck has a 440C blade.

I'll second the Ontario 499 'Pilot Survival Knife'.
If you really prefer the classic KaBar fighting knife, I nominate the Ontario 498. Identucal to the KaBar, but one "small" or "minor" difference:
The Ontario 498 (and 499) are still Mil Spec.
The KaBar isn't.
 
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Garaidh, beautiful roaming areas! :thumbsup:

I use big wood-chopping knives (around 10" blades, with finger choils) in forest and mountain wilderness because of their great versatility and low weight and bulk, plus high-quality knives have great durability, which is a necessity in a survival situation. If I wasn't concerned about chopping wood for fire and shelter, and keeping my caloric expenditure as low as possible, which is not likely in a wilderness survival or emergency situation, then a small knife would probably be fine. For safety and redundancy I almost always also carry a 4.5" blade and multi-tool.

As others have said, I'd use a knife to make a spear rather than use a knife as a spear. I wouldn't want to see an animal running off with what might be my only survival tool.

22-rimfire, you make some good points in Post 16 and I like your distinction between car camping and backpack camping in Post 33. I'm surprised I don't see more references to that, since it often makes a huge difference. I doubt if there would be as many recommendations for heavy and bulky chopping and cutting tools, such as hatchets and axes, if people actually had to carry them in the wilderness themselves and not rely on a vehicle to do it for them.

Folding saws definitely have their place, and I have a few, but when I have to limit the weight and bulk I carry I much prefer a big wood-chopping knife, which is a great multi-purpose tool. A folding saw can only used be used for one thing, is not nearly as durable as a high-quality knife, and is more time-consuming to sharpen, none of which are optimal in a survival situation. But, wilderness environments vary greatly and there are probably some where a folding saw is more useful than a big knife.
 
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