Survivor and sharp eagle knifes

Apr 16, 1999
I went to the Nebraska State Fair and had noticed that a dealer there was selling both brands of knifes. How I saw the Survivor CUTE and the Survivor Hawker in a knife magazine, and the Sharp Eagle Cool (with Ti coating) as well.

Sharp Eagle Cool

It sure was a good thing that I talked the dealer down to 8 bucks instead of how much he was selling it for (15, but MSRP is about 25)
The handle is a cheezy camofoliage one, and the lock is a button on an inner liner lock.
The lockup is at least stable, which is better than some knifes that I handled.
The edge was hair popping sharp out of the box, and it is half serated. I don't think that the TI coating on the 440 blade really helped edge retention.

Survivor (R) Hawker
I don't have pictures for any fo the survivor knifes. I payed 20 for this one, and it partially reminded me of the CRKT stiff kiss, but smaller and a swedge ground on. To me this was more like somebody tried to put an edge on an icepick. The edge was ground a little too steep to have a decent edge on there. The sheath was a lot like the CRKT stiff KISS one too.

Survivor(R) CUTE
For starters I thought that was a KISS knockoff, untill I played with it and inspected it closer. The lock is in the middle of the knife instead of on the side which seems to me a little bit easier to close than the other linerlocks. The blade is a pice of chizzle ground AUS6 in a sort of Reverse tanto, or like somebody made a hibrid of a sheepfoot and a tanto. This knife also came with a sharp edge as well. Also I noticed that there is a safty bar that is built into the handle so somehow you can't cut yourself when it is in the closed position.

On to the testing:

I had a bunch of 5 foot boxes that held portible buildings, and I slashed, cut, and stabbed the crap out of them, some were wet others were dry.

Sharp Eagle: Well I thought that the TI coating was a gimmic, and it probibly is. I was only able to go through about 10 feet of cardboard, before the serrations hung up on the soaked cardboard. The drop pointed blade was easy to push through the cardboard in both Reverse grip and Hammer grip. All in all it was a pretty good knife for 8 dollars.

Survivor HAWKER: Well this didn't preform to my expectations, it only cut about 5 feet of cardboard before going dull. But it just poked through the cardboard in rapid succession like it was built more for thrusting and stabbing compared to cutting and slashing.

My over all opinion was that I shouldn't of payed 20 for it, but would be more comfortable inbetween 10 and 15 dollars for it.

Survivor CUTE: now this little knife ROCKED! it cut over 20 feet of cardboard without hanging up before I lost count. It cut regullarly, and when slashing, it slashes deep for a blade of 1 and 7/8 inches. when thrusting in it went all of the way into the cardboard, you need to stab in at an angle so it would go in easier.
The lockup also held well when stabbing in reverse grip.

My opinion, it was definitly worth the 25 that I payed for.
UPDATE: I just finished re sharpening these knives back to hair popping sharp, and I would have to say that both of the survivor knives took their edge well and fast. The sharp eagle one, with it's gimmic ti coating sharpened a little more difficult, and my sharpmaker took off the coating on the blade.

I put up a first impression on the Survivor Cute a few months ago and I agree that it's pretty damn good for the $$$. I recommend coating the entire thing with Tuf Cloth or some other rust protection because it started to rust on me after a few weeks of work.

I opened up the entire thing to see if I could remove the pocket clip, which I don't recommend unless you have a spacer/washer to replace it -- if you remove the clip w/o replacing it with something, the blade kinda stays off the handle. Out of the box, the copper spacer around the pivot showed some signs of oxidation (e.g., green), and a smooth plastic (polyurethane?) disc gives the knife it's relatively smooth opening.