"Survivor" Design thread - let's wrap this up

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I think my buscraft will need a bigger brother, I would take a # 2, not that id be stabbing anything, but it looks to have more penetration ability.
 
As said before I have a preference for #1 but both are totally acceptable.

Outstanding design by you. :thumbup:


That is a great big sturdy hard use knife design there. I'm sure there will be many happy owners :)
 
I'd go for #1 and must have serrations for firesteel....OH'yea that peice of steel at the end of pommel needs to go away.
 
I'm usually partial to drop points, but being as this is supposed to be a wsk/pigsticker, I'd like to see #2 with a longer clip to give it more of an acute point, but not necessarily with an edge to the clip. Hog hide can be particularly tough (especially around the shield) and a pointier tip would aid in penetration.
 
well jeewizzo! I dont have a problem with 5160 steel,but I'd gladly pay more for 3v.but hey the simplicity of small controlled runs make for awesome QC.
 
I prefer #2 but like them both...will definately be ordering one or two.
 
I am into the #1 design.

A couple of my concerns have already been mentioned, radius on the inside of the ring and the logo hole eliminated. My other issue is with the flare on the spine side of the handle. It looks cool as hell, but if you really wanted drop your hand down for more chopping leverage that side seems like it will dig into and destroy your hand.
 
Of the two, I like #1. The water-jet cut logo would look cool, but bits of organic matter will likely collect there, likely leading to food contamination if the knife is used for food prep and not cleaned religiously.

It seems the pommel would likely be better suited for breaking glass windows than having any merit in the wild? Seems like you would want that to be flatter so that you could pound on it with a baton if needed.

The ring choil would be a deal killer for me though. I respect that others like it. It just doesn't work for me.

Looks like another fun project for you Dan.

regards,

Harold
 
#1 design I think flows better.

The "K" logo cutout bothers me. I think it might be cool if a "K" was 'burned' into the micarta on the handle slabs instead.

I have no issue with 5160 but would like to see a treatment offered to reduce chance of corrosion; Like a french grey finish. Or removeable scales so I could do it myself.

Pommel flare could be reduced a bit.

Overall a killer design and sure to be another huge success for you Dan!
 
ColdOne said:
Something just a little more stain/corrosion resistance. For some reason, I can make 5160 rust between using it and walking home. :(
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Hmmm, I've never had that much of a rust issue with 5160. At least, certainly not in the realm of L6, O-1 or the others. The problem is that any stainless material you move to in a knife this size will be giving up a lot of performance in terms of standing up to impacts. You could go to S7--which is supposed to be more stain resistant--but you also give up edge holding due to low edge strength--won't chip but it will roll/blunt very quickly without a really obtuse edge angle. Also wears very easily. INFI would work, but I don't think Jerry will give any of it up, and even if he did these would no longer go for $195.00 ;)

One thing you might consider is wiping on a coat of clear, quick drying polyurethane to the exposed tang and spine--I've done that for years on my non-stainless knives and it does a very nice job of protecting them from my hands without changing the look of the knife. And when it wears off you just wipe a little more on. Something to think about anyway.
 
I've not had trouble with SR77, SR101 or INFI, however 5160 seems to react with me.

Of interest, I can't wear silver either as it will tarnish before the end of the day! :eek:

Regardless, I will order one and just be extra careful with it. I may do what you mention and coat the tang.
 
syrinx said:
well jeewizzo! I dont have a problem with 5160 steel,but I'd gladly pay more for 3v.but hey the simplicity of small controlled runs make for awesome QC.
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I can already tell I'll start a fight by saying this, but in a big chopper like this I have actually found no real advantage, and some disadvantage, to 3V compared to 5160. I have two large brutes in 3V--one Fehrman, and one Siegle, and don't get me wrong they're great knives. However, under serious chopping use 3V will chip where 5160 will roll, and its MUCH higher wear resistance makes fixing that kind of edge damage a tiring experience. I know some will say that knives are for cutting and not for chopping--just because that always seems to get said--but then I have to ask why exactly a 10" long 1/4" thick blade is being selected by them.

Now 3V is absolutely phenominal in something like the Bushman knife. Where it really shines is in its extreme deformation resistance--the stuff does not like to roll or dent or blunt. It will keep its edge shape even when the edge is thin and being pushed on hard (tailor made for scandi-grinds). But there's a big difference between a hard push and a sharp impact. That same deformation resistance means that once its strength has been overcome, it will tend to fracture instead of give.
 
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