sushi knife thickness

[Gevir Knives]

battling between using 1/8" thick and 3/32" for a sushi knife i'm making for a friend.
i used 3/32 before for some kitchen knives , they turned ou great , but i use a charcoal grill converted for heat treat so the burn is uneven and sometimes causes warping
i know upgrading to a even heat oven would fix that but $$ is not there right now so i;m wondering if 1/8" would be thin enough
worse case i'll use 3/32 and hammer back into shape if need be but don't want to if i don't have to

Thanks in advance! I'm new to the forum and will be upgrading to a paid subscription soon, until then check out some of my stuff here.

http://www.daggerscove.com/#!knives/cccy

 

[Hesparus]

I assume you are talking about a yabagiba. If you are going to make a traditional style one with a chisel grind on one side and a hollow grind on the other (urasaki), 1/8" or more is typical. If you are going to do a double host grind version (basically a sujihiki with a yabagiba profile), go with the 3/32" or thinner.

Chris

 

[PEU]

If its carbon steel, after the quench past the perlite nose and while is still hot, put the blade between flat plates and a weight on top, this helps a lot to avoid warping. If its stainless its even easier because you go straight from the oven to the plates.


Pablo

 

[Gevir Knives]

I assume you are talking about a yabagiba. If you are going to make a traditional style one with a chisel grind on one side and a hollow grind on the other (urasaki), 1/8" or more is typical. If you are going to do a double host grind version (basically a sujihiki with a yabagiba profile), go with the 3/32" or thinner.

Chris

yes it's the yabagiba style. i did more research ad went with 3/32 for it. i've been looking and there are a few schools on the subject. the double edge(host?) grind, and one honed side only with a asymmetrical hone. i'm going with the latter. i did a practice run on some 1/8" and it seemed a bit thick but still looks the part but it's for a client so i'll keep that one and do one on 3/32 for him

 

[Gevir Knives]

If its carbon steel, after the quench past the perlite nose and while is still hot, put the blade between flat plates and a weight on top, this helps a lot to avoid warping. If its stainless its even easier because you go straight from the oven to the plates.


Pablo

thanks, good advice! in the past when it's happened on other kitchen knives and thin blades i just hammer it back as good as i can but it never goes 100% flat and i'm not a skilled blacksmith so there's hammer marks.
so that's immediatlety after it's out of the quench right to plates?

 

[butcher_block]

my single bevels are almost always right around 3/16 thick but taper to 1/8. double bevels are 3/32 at the spine and taper as i get out to the point