Svord economy drop point hunter question

FortyTwoBlades said:
You might be surprised by the edge retention so long as you aren't cutting a ton of cardboard or rope with it. Most machetes are around the 55 mark and hold an edge just fine as long as you don't hit dirt or rocks. :)
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I was gonna use the machete correlation, but I didn't think most folks would like to hear it. :D

55RC will hold an edge, but my FBF Bushcrafter is pulling down an RC of 61 or so, and takes a while before it won't cedar so thin you can see through it. For a bushcrafter, I would want a harder edge. Machete's are that low for a reason, as you well know, 42, probably better than most.

Impact and flex is more important to a good 'chete than edge retention. You can sharpen then on just about any rough surface, to get them back in action. And you don't have to worry about them chipping out. Edge rolling, maybe, but no chips. :D

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Moose
 
The thing I like about the 55 rockwell is that the edge retention isn't anything to scoff at, while at the same time being able to be very rapidly touched up should damage be encountered. On a bushcrafter I'd rather be able to sharpen up my knife on "any old thing" in case I lost my diamond stone or chipped my edge. Just my thoughts. ;) This is also the reason I generally suggest folks to go coarser rather than finer if selecting a single sharpening stone/tool to pack for field sharpening.
 
FortyTwoBlades said:
The thing I like about the 55 rockwell is that the edge retention isn't anything to scoff at, while at the same time being able to be very rapidly touched up should damage be encountered. On a bushcrafter I'd rather be able to sharpen up my knife on "any old thing" in case I lost my diamond stone or chipped my edge. Just my thoughts. ;) This is also the reason I generally suggest folks to go coarser rather than finer if selecting a single sharpening stone/tool to pack for field sharpening.
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Moose
 
I carry one of those in my pack every day. :) In spite of my EDC consisting of a CS Pocket Bushman and an Opinel No.8 Carbon (neither of which is known for having award-winning edge retention) I find myself most commonly using the DMT on other people's knives. ;)
 
it's interesting Mr. Baker's email says 55-58hc, cause the the kiwi outdoor i got from 42 had a piece of paper in the box that said, i thought, 59-60hc. guess Mr. Baker must have widened the range, or maybe only certain models get a lower hardening?

that said, it holds an edge quite well as do my peasants. i've put them through some nasty cutting chores and they still have a working edge. in fact l6 is one of my favorite steels right now. it does rust/stain quickly though.
 
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55rc is a bit low for a knife, but if it was machete I would be more than happy about it. I also found it interesting that he specified that the knives are differentially heat treated. I guess I had somehow overlooked that in my research. Also, jbmonkey how does L6 stain compared to something like 1075 or 1095?

I emailed Bryan Baker back asking if the Kiwi machete had a different hardness than the knives, and I'll update this when i get the response.

Also, 42 I looked through your selection of svords. I'm sad you don't carry the drop point hunter :(. Any chance you could get them in?
 
I'm fairly certain I can get them in--I'll just need to double check. Feel free to shoot me a PM about if. :)

Regarding Mr. Baker's quote of 55-58...could it be because you asked about both the Drop Point (knife) and the Kiwi Machete (machete--obviously :p) which would both be run at different hardnesses and therefore he was citing the range that included both? :confused: makes sense to me that way. Sort of like how Council Tool was quoting a huge range for the hardness on their axes and that's because they were citing the range of hardness from the minimum hardness of the poll/body (soft) to the max hardness of the edge (hard) :)

And yes--L6 is known for not being the most stain resistant steel, to be politic about it. :D But they lacquer dip many of their blades specifically because of that, and it's still not very hard to take care of. :)
 
ocnLogan said:
55rc is a bit low for a knife, but if it was machete I would be more than happy about it. I also found it interesting that he specified that the knives are differentially heat treated. I guess I had somehow overlooked that in my research. Also, jbmonkey how does L6 stain compared to something like 1075 or 1095?

I emailed Bryan Baker back asking if the Kiwi machete had a different hardness than the knives, and I'll update this when i get the response.
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I look forward to the info, thank you Sir.

On staining, I haven't done a scienced based study, but id say l6 stains easier than 1075 and 1095 steel. Granted most 1075 and 1095 I've used is in machetes and blades with a clear coating or blade coating on it......but going by bevel which is uncoated since I reshape them right away....I say l6 stains real easy.

For example I used a svord peasant to cut up a standard red delicious apple, washed it immediately after with dish soap and water, dried it completely. Came back a few hours later and it had rusty spots. Not the kind of rusty spots I get from sweat on steel or salt water, rather large rusty stain spots. Came off easily with flitz though.....so just surface stains. Using the kiwi outdoor to cut down some nasty vines that grow over my fence, turns the edge purple instantly. That also comes off with flitz easily.

Still really like this steel, it sharpens easily, imho, and takes a super sharp edge and holds it well.
 
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Sorry, I had a busy week of school last week and I forgot to post his response.

Here it is:

yes machete is same hardness ,

regards Bryan
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Its feeling like they run their blades on the softer side. On the other hand, with a differential HT, L6 steel, and their relative softness... They should be dang tough.
 
Which is useful in a beat-it-the-hell-up knife like a Svord. :D
 
I smoothed and oiled the handle on mine. feels great now. I really like this knife, lightweight yet tough.

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