switch installation for my grinder

Metalhead0483

Metalhead0483

Joined
Jan 17, 2008
Messages
539
Hey all, my sling grinder from Polar Bear Forge is finally all assembled. Now I just need to get the wiring done. I wired it up real quick yesterday just to make sure everything works (it does, which is very pleasing) but now I need to get everything closed up nice and tight.

I am as far from an electrician as you can get, and this is the first grinder I've built, so be gentle... ;) The pop-out on the motor box is .88" but the switch I have (similar, but not identical to this one http://www.homedepot.com/p/Gardner-Bender-20-Amp-Double-Pole-Toggle-Switch-1-Pack-GSW-14/100149490) is nowhere near that big. Do they make reducer fittings so I can fit that switch? Or do I need to use a different switch?

Any help is appreciated.
 
I've wired quite a few motors, and almost always put the switch in a separate box. A piece of conduit or iron pipe will connect them together
 
Just a regular electrical box and a 3/4" pipe nipple from the hardware store will work. Use a conduit but on the inside of the box to secure the pipe. Should be about $10 in parts from any hardware store.
 
I just drilled a hole on the cover plate and mounted my switch right there. It was a toggle switch, so took very little room in the junction box.
 
I Agree, use the knockout to fit an adjacent box holding a switch.
Using a switch such as Leviton R62-03032-2WS cost a few dollars more, but requires no custom drilling, etc. easy hookup on its big terminals.
Btw, this suggestion assume you are switching single phase 120 or 240volt power ?
 
That is what I do. I put a metal junction box on the cover plate and run the motor power wires up into it. I use a Leviton 30 amp motor grade switch ( looks like a heavy duty light switch) and put on a switch cover plate. The power cord runs through the side of the junction box.
 
I prefer my switches a little closer to the front of the machine than mounting directly to the motor typically allows, so I'll usually just mount a separate switch box (aka "handy box") using some romex clamps of the appropriate size. For the wire, I prefer SO cable, as it's flexible and easier to work with. I also prefer the heavy duty "light" switches, but if you want to use a toggle, you'll just need to drill a hole in a blank cover plate. I recommend crimping some insulated female spade connectors on your wires that hook up to the switch (if using a toggle), or if you decide to go with a heavy duty motor/light switch, it should have built in clamp connectors on the screw terminals. If wiring a 220vac switch, you want a DPST so that both hot leads are disconnected when the motor is powered off. This will work for a 110VAC connection as well, and you can just connect your neutral in line with the switch. Make sure your power cable in grounded to the motor frame (should be a green screw inside the pecker head), and that you ground your switch box appropriately as well.
 
You should always use a two pole switch regardless of singlephase 120v or 240v. Especially so if its power is connected by plug & receptacle.
 
Sorry guys, been away from my computer for a few days.

I feel a bit dumb actually. I figured I'd just drill a hole in the face plate of my grinder (Kevin, great minds must think alike ;) ) But when I get to the shop and look at said face plate there's already a half inch pop-out there. D'oh! That's what I get for not paying attention... Switch is installed and the grinder is working very nicely. Couple of small issues I still need to address, but on the whole I'm very pleased.
 
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