Switch to a blown burner

J

jspros

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Sep 25, 2015
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Hi everyone iam thinking about making the switch from venturi to blown burner. Has any one used this one its made by devil forge http://www.ebay.com/itm/DF-AIR-FORC...rrier-knife-/251455521028?hash=item3a8beac104
I like this one cause it says it can be used with the air compressor i have rather than buying a blower. I cant find many for sale out there just this one and the one on hightemp.com. Any one that uses a blown burner what kind do you have (or did have at one point) and how did you like it? Any suggestions of type or if any one knows where to find any other ones besides the 2 i found would be appreciated. I dont know to much about these type of burners so any advice would be great!
 
You'll work your air compressor a good deal in order to make this work. Most run a 100 cfm blower which will run under a hundred dollars.
 
I use the Hightemptools burner with a 150CFM HVAC blower, works great. Using a air compressor is not the best option as you need more air volume and not pressure.
 
As suggested, forget that burner.

Build a simple blown burner with a 12" piece of 1.25" pipe ( threaded on one end), an 1.25"Tee with an 1.25X1/4" bushing in the side port, a 1/4" needle valve for the gas control and a 1.25" gate valve for the air control. The blower can be any blower with sufficient CFM flow, but an actual forge blower has a better type of air flow. For the average size forge 100-150CFM is more than sufficient. On a smaller size forge not being used for welding, an 80CFM blower is fine.

Stainless pipe is best for the burner tube to give longer burner life, but regular pipe fittings and valves are OK for the rest.

In a perfect setup, the air supply pipe/tube should be about 3" diameter so there is no pressure build up. This is called the "air manifold". What you want is air volume, not pressure. This is best done by welding a flange on the end of a 6-12" long piece of 3" pipe. The flange should be drilled to match the bolts on the blower outlet. The blower is bolted to the flange, and the manifold connected to the blower at the air gate valve. The 3" pipe is connected to the burner with an elbow in most cases, but can be a straight connection if you have enough side room.

If you really want the best burner, after the Tee, there should be an expansion and mixing chamber before the 1.25" burner tube. It is two 1.25X2.5"reducer bells and a 3-4" piece od 2.5" pipe. This allows a sudden drop in pressure for a moment which allows the gas and air to mix and then suddenly increase in velocity as it enters the burner tube and chamber.
 
ok thanks everybody saved me some money on buying that burner. The one on hightemptools looks good that sbuzek suggested. Or just making one my self. It doesn't seem that complicated. However does any one know where to get a blower cheap. I don't want it so cheap that it will struggle to do its job. But i also don't want to spend alot either. Or does any one know what the general requirements are for one. I have been told that there is a few things that matter CFM, amps, some have horse power listed some dont?? Also i dont need a huge one my forge is small the dimensions inside the wool and coatings is 5 1/2inch diameter by 11 inch long but i do want it to reach welding temp. easily.
 
stacy check your mail i know i aint been around in a while my bro made the other name for him and i got on his but i havent tried to get on this name in a few weeks and recently trying to get back on it either freezes comp or logs me off i sending you a email with a lil more desription figured you might be able to help
 
Many simple squirrel cage blowers will work. The Dayton ones are regularly used. Here is a fast search on eBay :
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Active-Air-...SED-Working-/391266912776?hash=item5b19534a08

As I said, 100-150CFM is a good range. If the blower has too much air output to work, put a choke plate on it. This is a circle of metal that is screwed in one spot to the side of the blower where the big air intake hole is. You slide the metal plate over the hole to whatever degree is needed to make the forge run at full open. From there, the air adjustment is done by the gate valve.

I have not used one of these, but they seem a perfect match for a forge setup. 4" out with speed/flow control:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/VenTech-4-6...roller-/171192355184?var=&hash=item27dbdc0970

For a ton of design info ( it may confuse you) :
https://www.abana.org/ronreil/design1.shtml
 
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