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- Jan 25, 2004
- Messages
- 1,214
I'll bet that he knew he was going to like the Sebbie when he bought it ...
-
The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details: https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
Price is $300 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.
Switching to a traditional folder to EDC
- Thread starter WreckedVeteran
- Start date
I'll bet that he knew he was going to like the Sebbie when he bought it ...
- Joined
- Sep 7, 2011
- Messages
- 2,753
GEC 66 Calf Roper
GEC 35 Churchill
Case Tribal Lock, Medium Stockman, Canoe, Mini Trapper (wharncliffe), and Sowbelly
Victorinox alox Cadet or Pioneer
Lionsteel Shuffler
The above are some of my current favorites. I mostly carry and own moderns but do love my traditionals as well....they're what I carry while at work. I was initially drawn to single blade traditionals only but have since transitioned to more multi-bladed ones. It's just so handy to have different blade types for different cutting chores all within one knife. To me, that really exemplifies the essence of a "traditional."
Method of carry for traditionals was difficult for me at first, coming from pocket clipped moderns, but I finally settled on leather pocket slip carry (upright and next to my wallet in my back pocket).
Welcome to the Porch, and good luck in your choice (and journey)!
GEC 35 Churchill
Case Tribal Lock, Medium Stockman, Canoe, Mini Trapper (wharncliffe), and Sowbelly
Victorinox alox Cadet or Pioneer
Lionsteel Shuffler
The above are some of my current favorites. I mostly carry and own moderns but do love my traditionals as well....they're what I carry while at work. I was initially drawn to single blade traditionals only but have since transitioned to more multi-bladed ones. It's just so handy to have different blade types for different cutting chores all within one knife. To me, that really exemplifies the essence of a "traditional."
Method of carry for traditionals was difficult for me at first, coming from pocket clipped moderns, but I finally settled on leather pocket slip carry (upright and next to my wallet in my back pocket).
Welcome to the Porch, and good luck in your choice (and journey)!
peanutsxx
Gold Member
- Joined
- Dec 5, 2017
- Messages
- 903
WreckedVeteran
If the "last visit" information is accurate then you haven't seen my offer, but hopefully you will this weekend. Please let me know as I have another member interested in trying the pattern.
- Joined
- Mar 31, 2018
- Messages
- 2,682
I started out with traditional slip joint as a kid primarily stockman patterns small to medium size. Then in the mid 90s due to my work type and needs I started carrying a few different brand modern folders with the pocket clips usually inexpensive but sturdy lock types. Now I carry both but better and more expensive. It’s hard for me to go without a good slip joint knife small to midsize because I find many times I need a smaller slimmer blade for getting into tighter spaces and more delicate work.
I have some large trappers and occasionally use them out camping or fishing but most of the time I only need a midsize knife 3.25 to 3.5 inches. Smaller yet enough handle. I’ve tried a peanut but they’re just to small and I fumble and drop to easily. I think it is a personal preference but I find the older I get the more I appreciate a mid size slip joint either a mini trapper or medium stockman.
I have some large trappers and occasionally use them out camping or fishing but most of the time I only need a midsize knife 3.25 to 3.5 inches. Smaller yet enough handle. I’ve tried a peanut but they’re just to small and I fumble and drop to easily. I think it is a personal preference but I find the older I get the more I appreciate a mid size slip joint either a mini trapper or medium stockman.
It's not just you, bud. As a bonafide old fart, and as a peanut fan, I had to forgo carrying my peanut because of old age fumble fingers with some arthritis issues tossed in. Now my most carried pocketknife is in the 3 1/4 range, like a Buck cadet or a Victorinox recruit. Much easier to handle without fumbling and dropping. As I've made my way through my 70's, I experienced a new kind of clumsiness creeping into my life. I've discovered that us 'older' folks have to br a little more careful and mindful of our actions.
Like they say, "Old age ain't for the faint of heart."
- Joined
- Jul 30, 2006
- Messages
- 42,286
For that combination of activities, a small stockman would be excellent.
Something between 3 1/4" and 3 5/8".
I'm partial to the Buck 303, but Case makes several in that size range. Boker does also.
John F.
Gold Member
- Joined
- Sep 9, 2005
- Messages
- 132
Howdy! You came to the right place! There are many experienced folks here, with lots of valid input to share.
Like many here, I grew up with & used traditionals extensively before switching for a couple of decades to various modern, clip-type lock blades. A few years ago my $200 Benchmade axis-lock broke a spring, & I pulled out a traditional while procrastinating about getting it fixed.
I don't miss the clipped knives' tendency to shred pocket hems, or the hassle when reaching past them to get my keys, change, etc. Benefits of traditionals: they're light, handy, & quick/easy to keep very sharp. They're much more nimble for chores & delicate work, and take up little room in the pocket (usually). They don't present a "Tactical" look to passers-by, & a very nice traditional is much less expensive than a very nice Benchmade, etc.
AVOIDING LOSS: *** One lesson I learned c. 1974 which remains very helpful, is to ingrain an absolute habit of closing the knife & returning it to your pocket after cutting, >>>even if you aren't totally through with a cutting project<<<. Many knives are lost when they get set down during a project & are forgotten. I violated that rule 20 years ago; it cost me a gorgeous little vintage Gerber Silver Knight w/abalone handles. I was at a steak place with tough steak and dull knives. I set it on the edge of my plate while cutting my steak; at meals' end, the waitress took the plate... & the knife. That one hurt, but not as badly #2.
Casual, khaki pants w/long-slanted, low-opening pockets are tailor-made for losing knives. (OTOH, blue jeans or "tactical" style khakis w/high pocket openings retain knives very well.. I learned this while sitting in a theater, leaning back in my seat. This set up the side pocket to quietly eject a GORGEOUS, like-new Case Stockman (1965-70 era). THAT was an expensive lesson... To this day, I only rarely wear that style pants, & then I consciously decide which knife to carry -- if any -- & how.
A 3rd common cause of knife loss hasn't gotten me (yet) due to my habit of putting knives away immediately. Still, I've seen many lost this way over the years. At group work events, inevitably someone wants to borrow a knife. They pass it to someone else, & on & on, until vanishes. When in this situation, remember: you paid good money for that knife for YOUR use, & nobody's reimbursing you if it goes missing. If you DO lend it out, make VERY CERTAIN to get it back, ASAP.
HANDLE MATERIALS: If you are not "hung up" on natural handle materials, yellow Delrin is outstanding. It is unbreakable & reduces cost. Being a bright color, it reminds you if you've set it down, or helps you find it easily if dropped. Growing up w/older Case knives as a family legacy, I internalized that "bone" meant "quality." OTOH, yellow Delrin is a classic in its' own right. Bone handles are pretty durable. However, a drop on on a hard surface very occasionally results in a crack, or even a piece missing. Another horror story, re: a very nice Schatt & Morgan, File & Wire 2006 "Toothpick" w/nice, jigged bone handles & ATS-34 steel. It's an elegant design, handles like a dream & just vanishes in the pocket. Unfortunately, one "drop" too many & a chunk of bone was missing. With Delrin or other synthetic handles, it would be fine.
THE LEARNING PROCESS:
My best friend in High School, c. 1976, bought a red-bone Large Trapper at the hardware store for, IIRC, ~ $14.00. He chose it simply because it was the biggest Case he could get. He used it for a few years, & moved on to the BM Mini-AFCK when it came out. I got a Schrade Muskrat w/2 identical long-clip blades. It took a great edge quickly, but held it very poorly; I was actually glad when I lost it! Having 2 identical blades was too much of a good thing. I found more variety in blade shape greatly improves the utility for various tasks. I then got a "nifty" Case Cheetah w/a single thick, sabre-ground blade with fold-out guards. I soon hated it. It was very hard to sharpen well, the blade tip was wrong for delicate work, & it was clumsy for slicing. "Buh-bye!"
Next: a medium Case Stockman, which many have voted for here. It's become my favorite pattern. There is a point size & shape for everything, & you can reserve one blade for either rough tasks or keeping extra sharp. They do come in different configurations, so examine the various blade shapes on any Stockman you evaluate. Many/most come w/a long clip master blade, a sheepsfoot blade, & a short pen or spey blade. Spey blades have a rounded, fairly dull point; you get a good, straight cutting edge, but little else, just so you know. Some Trapper connoisseurs, as mentioned above, skip the spey blade for a much lighter, slim knife. Others have the spey blade point reground to a more useful shape. Some modern Trappers feature a Wharncliffe or other style instead of the Spey.
Time passed -- my HS friend of "Big Trapper" fame had some irrational prejudice against the Stockman. He just wouldn't have one. So, I sent him a nice, mid-70's ("our era") Case w/the request that he try it for at least 90 days. Turns out, he loves it!
Then, I put the shoe on the other foot. I'd never owned a Trapper. At Blade, I found a mint, large 1977 Trapper -- our HS graduation year. No longer $14.00 -- now, $150. Sentimental value got me, so I promptly put it to use. It's great, & slowly developing the smooth, even patina of honest use common to carbon steel Case's. In time, I found it increasingly uncomfortable in the pocket, so I got a custom sheath for it. There, it's very handy, secure, & out of the way. In the end, it wound up being a sheath knife of sorts.
Back I went, to the medium Stockman due to its' size & great versatility. I also rotated it w/a 1940's Case XX Half Whittler like my Dad carried in WW2. It's a slim, smaller knife w/just a clip master & a small pen blade sharing a single backspring. (BTW, If you wear glasses & your hinge screws back out, a small pen blade tip makes a great substitute for the little screwdriver that's never around when you need it.)
Suggestion: due to the process of discovering all the uses you'll find for a traditional, plus the various blade shapes/combos that may/may not
work well for you, I wouldn't start with expensive blades. A good, mid-grade Case is not difficult to trade or sell, & you can try patterns without breaking the bank. Off-brand knives are harder to sell & for a return on your cost than well-recognized brands.
A couple of warnings -- Puma used to be EXCELLENT knives back in the 70's/80's, before the company was sold. Now many are made in Spain, etc.
I got a "new era" Puma small Stockman years ago, and soon realized that the workmanship was poor and the blade steel/heat treatment were also pretty hideous. I gave it away to a non-knife person after a couple of months. The same happened with a newer Boker I tried -- it didn't seem nearly as good as the older ones from decades ago. So, when someone recommends an old, established name in cutlery, do some research and be sure that
they haven't taken a major hit in quality at some point in their recent history.
I hope this helps! Welcome to the long, pleasant road of discovering the joys of traditionals. It's fun finding out which ones really work well
for your needs, cutting style preferences, sharpening style/intervals, etc. When you really home in on "THE" preferred knife, you might invest in a truly fine, high quality version.
Good luck,
John
Like many here, I grew up with & used traditionals extensively before switching for a couple of decades to various modern, clip-type lock blades. A few years ago my $200 Benchmade axis-lock broke a spring, & I pulled out a traditional while procrastinating about getting it fixed.
I don't miss the clipped knives' tendency to shred pocket hems, or the hassle when reaching past them to get my keys, change, etc. Benefits of traditionals: they're light, handy, & quick/easy to keep very sharp. They're much more nimble for chores & delicate work, and take up little room in the pocket (usually). They don't present a "Tactical" look to passers-by, & a very nice traditional is much less expensive than a very nice Benchmade, etc.
AVOIDING LOSS: *** One lesson I learned c. 1974 which remains very helpful, is to ingrain an absolute habit of closing the knife & returning it to your pocket after cutting, >>>even if you aren't totally through with a cutting project<<<. Many knives are lost when they get set down during a project & are forgotten. I violated that rule 20 years ago; it cost me a gorgeous little vintage Gerber Silver Knight w/abalone handles. I was at a steak place with tough steak and dull knives. I set it on the edge of my plate while cutting my steak; at meals' end, the waitress took the plate... & the knife. That one hurt, but not as badly #2.
Casual, khaki pants w/long-slanted, low-opening pockets are tailor-made for losing knives. (OTOH, blue jeans or "tactical" style khakis w/high pocket openings retain knives very well.. I learned this while sitting in a theater, leaning back in my seat. This set up the side pocket to quietly eject a GORGEOUS, like-new Case Stockman (1965-70 era). THAT was an expensive lesson... To this day, I only rarely wear that style pants, & then I consciously decide which knife to carry -- if any -- & how.
A 3rd common cause of knife loss hasn't gotten me (yet) due to my habit of putting knives away immediately. Still, I've seen many lost this way over the years. At group work events, inevitably someone wants to borrow a knife. They pass it to someone else, & on & on, until vanishes. When in this situation, remember: you paid good money for that knife for YOUR use, & nobody's reimbursing you if it goes missing. If you DO lend it out, make VERY CERTAIN to get it back, ASAP.
HANDLE MATERIALS: If you are not "hung up" on natural handle materials, yellow Delrin is outstanding. It is unbreakable & reduces cost. Being a bright color, it reminds you if you've set it down, or helps you find it easily if dropped. Growing up w/older Case knives as a family legacy, I internalized that "bone" meant "quality." OTOH, yellow Delrin is a classic in its' own right. Bone handles are pretty durable. However, a drop on on a hard surface very occasionally results in a crack, or even a piece missing. Another horror story, re: a very nice Schatt & Morgan, File & Wire 2006 "Toothpick" w/nice, jigged bone handles & ATS-34 steel. It's an elegant design, handles like a dream & just vanishes in the pocket. Unfortunately, one "drop" too many & a chunk of bone was missing. With Delrin or other synthetic handles, it would be fine.
THE LEARNING PROCESS:
My best friend in High School, c. 1976, bought a red-bone Large Trapper at the hardware store for, IIRC, ~ $14.00. He chose it simply because it was the biggest Case he could get. He used it for a few years, & moved on to the BM Mini-AFCK when it came out. I got a Schrade Muskrat w/2 identical long-clip blades. It took a great edge quickly, but held it very poorly; I was actually glad when I lost it! Having 2 identical blades was too much of a good thing. I found more variety in blade shape greatly improves the utility for various tasks. I then got a "nifty" Case Cheetah w/a single thick, sabre-ground blade with fold-out guards. I soon hated it. It was very hard to sharpen well, the blade tip was wrong for delicate work, & it was clumsy for slicing. "Buh-bye!"
Next: a medium Case Stockman, which many have voted for here. It's become my favorite pattern. There is a point size & shape for everything, & you can reserve one blade for either rough tasks or keeping extra sharp. They do come in different configurations, so examine the various blade shapes on any Stockman you evaluate. Many/most come w/a long clip master blade, a sheepsfoot blade, & a short pen or spey blade. Spey blades have a rounded, fairly dull point; you get a good, straight cutting edge, but little else, just so you know. Some Trapper connoisseurs, as mentioned above, skip the spey blade for a much lighter, slim knife. Others have the spey blade point reground to a more useful shape. Some modern Trappers feature a Wharncliffe or other style instead of the Spey.
Time passed -- my HS friend of "Big Trapper" fame had some irrational prejudice against the Stockman. He just wouldn't have one. So, I sent him a nice, mid-70's ("our era") Case w/the request that he try it for at least 90 days. Turns out, he loves it!
Then, I put the shoe on the other foot. I'd never owned a Trapper. At Blade, I found a mint, large 1977 Trapper -- our HS graduation year. No longer $14.00 -- now, $150. Sentimental value got me, so I promptly put it to use. It's great, & slowly developing the smooth, even patina of honest use common to carbon steel Case's. In time, I found it increasingly uncomfortable in the pocket, so I got a custom sheath for it. There, it's very handy, secure, & out of the way. In the end, it wound up being a sheath knife of sorts.
Back I went, to the medium Stockman due to its' size & great versatility. I also rotated it w/a 1940's Case XX Half Whittler like my Dad carried in WW2. It's a slim, smaller knife w/just a clip master & a small pen blade sharing a single backspring. (BTW, If you wear glasses & your hinge screws back out, a small pen blade tip makes a great substitute for the little screwdriver that's never around when you need it.)
Suggestion: due to the process of discovering all the uses you'll find for a traditional, plus the various blade shapes/combos that may/may not
work well for you, I wouldn't start with expensive blades. A good, mid-grade Case is not difficult to trade or sell, & you can try patterns without breaking the bank. Off-brand knives are harder to sell & for a return on your cost than well-recognized brands.
A couple of warnings -- Puma used to be EXCELLENT knives back in the 70's/80's, before the company was sold. Now many are made in Spain, etc.
I got a "new era" Puma small Stockman years ago, and soon realized that the workmanship was poor and the blade steel/heat treatment were also pretty hideous. I gave it away to a non-knife person after a couple of months. The same happened with a newer Boker I tried -- it didn't seem nearly as good as the older ones from decades ago. So, when someone recommends an old, established name in cutlery, do some research and be sure that
they haven't taken a major hit in quality at some point in their recent history.
I hope this helps! Welcome to the long, pleasant road of discovering the joys of traditionals. It's fun finding out which ones really work well
for your needs, cutting style preferences, sharpening style/intervals, etc. When you really home in on "THE" preferred knife, you might invest in a truly fine, high quality version.
Good luck,
John
- Joined
- Jan 9, 2007
- Messages
- 3,081
I've also been bitten by the slipjoint bug. I still have my Sebenzas, ZT, WE etc., and have no desire to get rid of them. I can't believe that I will be the first one in this thread to suggest the Case Mini-Copperlock. Since getting into traditionals about two months ago I've bought a GEC 06 Pemberton, 2 Peanuts, 5 Mini-Copperlocks, Lion Steel Shuffler, and Otnat. (The last 2 are CK exclusives.) I carry one of these in my watch pocket, and one of my others clipped in my left front pocket. One really good thing about traditionals/slipjoints, is that you can get a very good knife for much less than many modern folders, which means you can buy more of them! 
Really a lot of very good suggestions in this thread, and I wish you luck in the hunt! Please let us know what you get.
Oh, and I have a GEC #97 Yellow Rose due in this week from CK also.
Really a lot of very good suggestions in this thread, and I wish you luck in the hunt! Please let us know what you get.
Oh, and I have a GEC #97 Yellow Rose due in this week from CK also.
- Joined
- Oct 25, 2009
- Messages
- 1,192
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2014
- Messages
- 1,271
The GEC #35 Churchill and an A. Wright lambsfoot have been what are converting me back towards slipjoints. Both are excellent patterns, very carry-able and comfortable to carry.
Will Power
Gold Member
- Joined
- Jan 18, 2007
- Messages
- 33,027
Why would anybody be seduced away from Traditionals in the first place?
I understand some of the practicalities of one handed openers and have a couple, but feel no interest in buying any more. Whereas, Traditionals offer such a wealth of patterns, sizes, scale materials etc etc. there's always something of interest.
I like locking knives too, so don't let it be thought that all Traditionals are slip joint/springbacks, no. The Mini Copperhead is a good unobtrusive carry offering a decent blade, I like them and the GEC 83 lockback, plus I frequently carry a 9cm small Laguiole lockback in Horn or Bone. Smaller Bucks are very worthwhile and Rough Rider make some very capable inexpensive lockbacks.
I understand some of the practicalities of one handed openers and have a couple, but feel no interest in buying any more. Whereas, Traditionals offer such a wealth of patterns, sizes, scale materials etc etc. there's always something of interest.
I like locking knives too, so don't let it be thought that all Traditionals are slip joint/springbacks, no. The Mini Copperhead is a good unobtrusive carry offering a decent blade, I like them and the GEC 83 lockback, plus I frequently carry a 9cm small Laguiole lockback in Horn or Bone. Smaller Bucks are very worthwhile and Rough Rider make some very capable inexpensive lockbacks.