sword care

ArtWlfDog · Apr 12, 2001

i have a nice sword that i got from a friend a while back, and i care for it by coating it in veggie oil, and then cleaning it off every once in a while. other then that i just leave it alone.
heres the question, is there a better way?
how do you others care for your swords and stuff?

sharp, shiny, pointy. my three favorite things

Robert Marotz · Apr 12, 2001

Hello and welcome to the Forum!

It really depends on the type of sword you have.

If you have a stainless steel sword, windex isn't bad.

If you have a Japanese-style blade, choji oil is the way to go (the ONLY way if it's a traditional blade)

Modern swords can be treated with a gun oil or simply mineral oil.

European styles are often given a wax film coating to protect them.

When people say they have a "sword" they should really be more specific. Merely the TYPE of sword you have and the maker can make a significant impact on the responses you can get. So if you'd be so kind as to specify what you have, it'd be appreciated.

Shinryû.

Correction: Choji isn't the ONLY way to go...there are other variations, but it has to be traditional or at least the main component of traditional (pure mineral oil) if it's gonna be used on a traditional blade...

[This message has been edited by Robert Marotz (edited 04-12-2001).]

ArtWlfDog · Apr 12, 2001

well, it's an english style sword with a crap blade (one of those stainless steel blades that can't be sharpened). it's more of a costume sword really. the base of the handle, and the guard are made of copper, and the handle is made of stained wood. the handle's pretty hard so i think its oak. ill scan a picture of it so you can take a look at it. the guy i got it from let it go for $20 partly because he was looking to sell it, and he's a nice guy

it came with a sheath that fits to the guard. ive been thinking of using gun oil on the blade and linseed on the handle.

thanks to Clay. he had a link to this forum on his site.

Triton · Apr 16, 2001

If you get right down to it I don't think that you have to in fact do much in the way of care at all if it is a stainless blade. I have a couple of them sitting in my closet (and they have been for years) with basically no care and they are doing just fine.

Ken Cox · Apr 16, 2001

Please explain Choji oil.
Does it have any relation to the clove oil I often see listed as part of "traditional" sword care kits?

In the case of traditional Japaneses swords with their wrapped handles, did the user ever unwrap the handle and disassemble the sword for more thorough corrosion control, or did he send it back to someone for maintenance.

Wrapping a handle looks like it would take more skill than the average person could muster, and yet it seems almost derelict to carry a sword year after year without attending to the steel under all of the layers of furnishings.

------------------
Luke 22:36, John 18:6-11, Freedom
If one takes care of the means, the end will take care of itself.

Robert Marotz · Apr 16, 2001

Mr. Cox...

You don't have to unwrap to dismantle the sword. Pop the mekugi/peg out and you can pull the blade out of the handle assembly. That's one of the wonderful wonderful things about Japanese-style

But, traditionally you don't oil the tang.

Choji oil is NOT clove oil as it is sometimes translated to. It is almost completely comprised of a simple mineral oil, with a tiny bit of clove oil for scent. Kurobara is a similar formula, but uses camellia instead of clove. Straight clove oil is not good for the blade.

Shinryû.

Ken Cox · Apr 17, 2001

If one pulls the tang out of the handle assembly, what keeps the handle from falling apart?
Does it have lacquer or some other binding agent on it?

What keeps the tang from rusting?
I have seen steel brown before until it acquires a fairly corrosion resistant patina.
The Europeans have used browning as a corrosion control for several centuries; however, the pictures of disassembled Japanese swords which I have seen indicate a silvery, shiny tang with perhaps some discoloration but certainly nothing to compare to browning.

------------------
Luke 22:36, John 18:6-11, Freedom
If one takes care of the means, the end will take care of itself.

Robert Marotz · Apr 17, 2001

The handle core comprises of the wood "halves" (the seam is slightly off center) carved to snugly fit the tang. They are basically attached to each other with rice paste/glue (modern swords can have this done with wood glue if they like). The wood is wrapped with cured rayskin which is VERY tough material and is rather stiff and should be done tightly. This is usually affixed with rice paste/glue to the wood also. Over the rayskin is the ito/cord wrap. Then there's the metal collar (fuchi) and pommel (kashira) that also help keep the entire piece together. It is quite strong when well made.

Also, the tang does rust. Rust on the tang is one of the elements that help people determine what exactly a particular sword is.

Contemporary modern swords by non-Japanese makers would be fine if ya kept the tang wiped down and free of moisture, but for old and new Japanese swords, it just isn't done.

Shinryû.

Also, I don't know where you saw those pictures, but they must have been modern blades. They aren't intentionally rusted to prevent oxidation, they are simply left alone to rust with age.

This is an Edo/Kambun period blade courtesy of Aoi Art.

[This message has been edited by Robert Marotz (edited 04-17-2001).]