Sword Steel Question

P

PrinceArmory

Joined
Mar 23, 2008
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Alright lets say I'm looking to build a very solid sword about 41" overall length with a 3" wide blade and probably pretty thick and hefty. And lets suppose we're not terribly worried about normal sword practicalities, and weight and steel cost aren't inhibitors.

What my client wants to achieve is basically bragging rights. He intends to take care of the weapon for the most part but if he wants to slash at some tree limbs, trash cans, and the zombie hoards, then so be it. He can say he can, and do so if he chooses and I want to provide that for him. It'd be good if it could be jabbed into the floor, bent and spring back to true. Being able to hold an edge well with good wear resistance would be also nice.

So presumably shock resistance will be important for potential abuse so I'm thinking S7 is a good bet for what we're after, but I open to other suggestions if anyone knows of anything better.
 
Well first off let me say that I have never done a sword, real long knives and daggers don't count. Now with that out of the way we need to know a bit more about you and you skills and tools. I looked at your past posts but I don't know your skill level. I have been making knives for allmost as long as I can remember and I am just starting to feel comfortable with maybe doing a sword or 2. How will you be doing the shaping, forging or stock removal? You had mentioned s7 which is a great steel as well as s5. But It is very expensive, I have not priced it in a long time as I get it for scrap price. But the number of $20+ a pound is what's in my mind. But really honestly I would use 5160 as its the sword steel that most all other sword steels are compared agenst. I will be honest and I am not trying to offend you at all. I am trying to help. And I think this is one reason why this has not got any other responses. I have seen a lot of new people jump on here and there first project is going to be a sword. You need a very solid base skill set with smaller items before I would ever sajest even starting sword. A sword isn't just a long knife and so a whole new set of advanced skills will be built apone the base set of knife skills that you have refined. I mean ya you could grab an angle grinder and sharpen some steel and glue a handle on it and call it good. But If you really want a sword that you can bee pround of and also consider selling you need to boils up your skills. I don't know where your skill level is at. Sorry if I offended you, it was not my intention. Take the learning process one step at a time and have fun in the process.
 
I agree with McAhron. 5160 would be great, and L-6 would be good as well.
For most purposes, 1080 will do just fine. Swords have been made from 1060-1080 for many centuries and many of those are still going strong.
 
I take no offense but as for skill set, lets just operate on the assumption that I comfortable and capable of proceeding with the project, and again lets assume price isn't a factor for the steel. Only superior attributes for the application. I don't want 'just fine' or 'good enough' for something that is being designed to take abuse if need be. If 5160 is truly the best for my application then I will use it even if its the cheapest, but not because its the cheapest.

I plan to outsource the heat and cryo processes.

And the sword will be made via stock removal.

It's a practical overall design but its meant to be a fantasy weapon.

I looked at L6 but it seemed to me that it was mainly hyped starting 8 or so years ago as a result of that guy who did the nice katanas from L6 with the special heat treat. My question would be if the information for that heat treat is readily available or if there were any sources to outsource the process to. Furthermore I was also informed by crucible that they did not carry L6 in flat.

But S7 also has some great properties with a special heat and cryo treatment. S7 is called a shock steel and that seems about right for what I'm after.

Aside from 5160 I've also read that 9260 is better. But I've read a lot of things and for every 2 people it seems there are 5 different opinions.

I've also considered CPM 3V but the rep at Crucible told me they didn't carry it in the size I needed.

This sword will be ornate but designed more for standing up to abuse whether or not it will actually see it.
 
L6, 5160, they are both engineered to be tough and springy, yet have enough carbon to be able to hold an edge. The shock steels are meant for making rigid punches and dies, a sword should not be rigid ( I have been doing swordfighting since 1982)
making a sword is an entirely different skillset from making a knife

-Page
 
For my part, the main things I'd be looking at in a sword steel are strength and impact resistance/toughness. Wear resistance, (what some people seem to refer to as "edge holding") doesn't mean diddly squat in this application, except maybe for someone who wants to spend years cutting mats, and only mats.

So, you need something that can get reasonably hard. The harder it is, the better the edge will resist denting and rolling. But of course you could just make the edge 3 times thicker, and then any steel will seem tough.

Generally speaking though many steels get more brittle as they get harder, so that's where chemistry (alloy type) comes in. By adding certain elements, some alloys can be more resistant to brittle failure at higher hardnesses than others.

So, to your question-
5160 is generally considered a good tough steel. From reading here, L6 can be even tougher. S7 is tougher still at the same hardness. And S5 is even more impact resistant than all of them, and at higher hardness to boot. (see here for reference: latrobe steel alloy comparison) I don't have any experience with S5 though and it doesn't seem to be as popular, so just keep in mind this is on paper. But that paper comes from the people who should know. Latrobe makes S5 in plate .337" thick that can be cut to whatever other dimensions you need.
 
This is my 2 cents. I made a Katana blade from an old Ford truck spring.( the long flat leaf spring) It works great. Cuts like a razor and will take a 45 deg bend and come back straight. Still working on the cosmetics. But the blade met all my expectations. Also you can get the steel really cheap.
 
Prince, you will have a very, very long line of those speaking up for 5160, myself included, use whatever steel you want, the Best and toughest in all respects is 5160. if you want really cool, go with a 1095XL6 or 15N20 in a quality Damascus, that is what I would use if you want it to cost more and the cool factor and resale value is increased by 150%. Just my opinion, best of luck with your sword making.
 
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