Could someone who is a experienced Busse sharpening master please answer this question:
I had the usual assymetric grind on my Assault Shaker and sharpened it by using a Lansky sharpener on the flat side and a leather belt to strop the other side. Today I tried the mousepad-and-sandpaper-trick and sharpened my AS to a somewhat double convex grind. It has a nice polished edge by using the belt on the edge but it's not as sharp as before. Do I have to go to a smaller angle in double convex edges in order to get the same aggressive edge?
Also, what is more durable, assymetric or double convex?
Thanks!
I'm sure you will receive lots of answers, but here's my $.02:
I've seen a really sharp asymm. edge on two Busses; three, if you count a variant I sent in for resharpening. Those edges were pretty friggin' sharp. Everything else Busse that I've owned I've either sent in for reprofiling to convex, or have reprofiled myself (more on that below.) Since I've seen sharp asymm. edges, I know they work just fine. I did not, however, see any significant improvement over a standard V or convex grind when I "test-chopped" with a Steel Heart E - performance was about equal, although I didn't chop any wire, rocks, nails, or anything else that would have tested the "extreme performance" of the asymm edge in terms of damage resistance. (sidebar: the performance of the infi in terms of holding an edge was really good; the asymm edge did not seem to offer any real benefit over a more conventional grind.) Please note that this is not a scientific test, just my perception with one knife on a given day.
I prefer symmetrical (convex or V grind) to the asymm edge. The next guy in line will probably have an opposite preference, which is why Busse offers them both ways. However, I find a conventional V grind easier for ME to keep sharp than a convex edge; lack of skill, experience, or a testiment to the efficacy of the traditional V grind (your choice as to which applies.) I just have better luck bringing the V bevel back to life than I do a convex edge.
So, when I reprofile a Busse, I cut it to a V grind as follows:
* Choose an angle, dependent on blade useage
* Carefully recut the edge on a Lansky set with diamond stones, working from X-Coarse down to fine. Finish with an Extra-Fine soft stone, also on the Lansky, until I get sort of a jeweled appearance on the edge.
* Strop, Strop, Strop, Strop, Strop
* Strop some more. I use a loaded (CrO2) strop for this, backed by a board.
* Go forth and cut the living HELL out of whatever. So far I've never had to do anything but re-strop to bring the edge back out, and I'll match an edge I've sharpened this way against anything anyone else wants to bring to the table.
In the field I carry both a small ceramic rod and a small diamond rod. In the case of a blade that needs sharpening/resharpening/damage repair during field use, they've always been just fine. They do not bring that screaming, hair-popping edge with them, but face it - that razor-like quality on a freshly sharpened edge doesn't last very long no matter WHAT the steel is. You can strop just fine on a boot, a tree, piece of bark, or a really dirty set of pants.
So that's how *I* sharpen my Busses. In my own opinion, it's a lot more about the steel than the edge - INFI is the Busse advantage.
Edited to add the following footnote: I once tried the Lansky kit on the flat side of an Asymm grind, and then stropping the convex edge as you described. For whatever reason, I wound up with a really sharp edge that would push-cut like a bandit, but didn't chop or slice for beans. I don't know if I screwed it up on the Lansky kit or if the edge was ground too thick, but either way I sent it back to Jerry and asked him to put a convex grind on it. End of problem.
