synthetic oil changes?

Dijos

Dijos

Joined
Nov 20, 2001
Messages
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I bought a new VW, and it takes only synthetic oil. Now, common sense tells me that oil changes are to be done every 3000 miles. I have been hearing that the Synthetics canlet you go way farther; like 7500 miles or so. does anybody know anything about this?
 
I remember reading an auto magazine that said synthetics are beneficial to the engine but it does not give you the freedom to extend the oil change intervals beyond what the manufacturer recommends. What does VW recommend?
 
I had a VW with the 1.8T and it was every 5000miles, I have an Audi with the 2.0T and the factory interval is 10,000miles both full synthetic.
 
Follow the makers recommendations . The cheapest form of preventative maintenance for you engine is a regular oil change. Change the filter at the same time .I also add a can of injector cleaner at the same time.
 
Claims of extented mileage with syn's are false-----you still drive through the same dirty environment and the filter can only handle so much.

My buddy says he doesn't change the oil for like 5000-10000 miles and sometimes not even the filter get changed---and I'm wasting money changing oil all the time-----but then again they're loaded(he married into money) and have 5-6 vehicles----me with my one barely afforded one car(and motorcycle) will be changing oil and filters every 3000 miles. The bike gets changed every 1000 miles.
 
The VW 1.8T engine has a serious engineering issue. The turbo breaks down the oil viscosity. That is why only top of the line synthetic is now recommended. If you use any other oil, you void your warrantee. If you do not do oil changes according to the recomended schedule, you void your warrantee. If you do the oil changes yourself, you void your warrantee (because the dealer will not have a "record" of it). If the viscosity breaks down it will cost you around $1000 to flush the engine and the warrantee will not cover it. It your fry your turbo it will cost you an additional $1800 and the warrantee will not cover it.

So have the dealer do the oil changes according to schedule and even if you have a viscosity breakdown your warrantee will cover it and not be voided.
 
In town driving is considered severe use of your vehicle,follow mfg. directions for severe use in your owners manual.Some mfg. recommend changing differential oils and transmission at 7500 miles.
 
www.bobistheoilguy.com
Go look here; you'll be able to find lists of VW approved oils, and their acceptable drainage intervals. VW has very specific oil specifications, and actually has lists of oils that are approved for use.

Synthetic oil is not a gimmick; the limiting factors in oil life are additive depletion and viscosity shearing. Synthetic oil molecules have a more uniform molecular size distribution and structure, and are therefore more resistant to the physical degradation and oxidative damage that cause shearing.
 
Just read your owner's manual and follow it. They have very bright automotive engineers who have conducted tests to come up with the best maintenance schedule. I don't think you can outwit the company's engineers. I don't the car company wants its vehicles sitting on the side of the road with the hood up.

One thing to remember is that the miles before a change will vary sometimes depending on whether your driving patterns are "normal" or "severe". Look at the definition of "severe" closely. Often it means short trips of less than 10 miles. Then you should change your oil on a more frequent schedule.

Oil changes are about the cheapest auto repair item other than checking the air in your tires. I can't see skimping on something that is cheap, fast, and easy and protects an engine worth thousands of dollars.

I guess I'm a spendthrift because I toss in a $3 oil filter every time and a $12 air filter about every four times (you can suck lots of crud into an engine if the air filter isn't working).
 
Dijos said:
I bought a new VW, and it takes only synthetic oil. Now, common sense tells me that oil changes are to be done every 3000 miles. I have been hearing that the Synthetics canlet you go way farther; like 7500 miles or so. does anybody know anything about this?
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Just do it every 3000, as with your other vehicles.
 
omaha-beenglockin said:
Claims of extented mileage with syn's are false-----you still drive through the same dirty environment and the filter can only handle so much....:rolleyes:
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Actually, that statement is the false one! I began using synthetics in marine diesels in the mid-80's. Now, when you're talking $50K an engine in 1985 dollars, YOU FOLLOW THE MANUFACTURERS RECCOMENDATIONS! I can assure you there is absolutely no greater torture test for an engine than a high performance marine application. We used to check our engine oil analysis every season, and we never had a problem with the synthetic oils, and our maintenance routine went from an oil change every 100 hours to every 500 hours, which is a VERY big deal when you're changing 5 GALLONS of oil in each engine!

Most of the problems that occur with motor oils are related to viscosity and chemical breakdown which takes much longer to occur with the synthetics. We also noted slightly improved performance as well as fuel economy when we transitioned to the synthetic oils. I got an extra half knot out of the boat on the top end, and picked up an extra .1 NM/gal, considering that we burned 10,000+ gallons of diesel a season, THAT'S a VERY BIG DEAL.

Currently, all Mercedes-Benz engines REQUIRE synthetic motor oil and a sensor indicates when the vehicle needs an oil change, depending on driving habits. I average about every 9,500 miles and my wife gets about 10,500 miles between changes. Benz has been using synthetics since '98, so if there was an issue, I think we would have known by now!
 
Dijos said:
The only problem is that a Synthetic oil change is like $100.00. :confused:
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The 3.2L Mercedes holds 7 quarts and M-B uses Mobil 1. I pay the DEALER $65 for an oil/filter change. If VW charges $100 you are being gouged. Costco and Sam's Club both stock Mobil 1, so if you are a DIY kinda guy you are set there. I STRONGLY reccomend you pick up a case of Mobil 1 at Sam's or Costco and keep at least a quart or two in the car. It is often not available at most gas stations.:mad:
 
Dijos said:
The only problem is that a Synthetic oil change is like $100.00. :confused:
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i use synthetic oil (mobil 1 FWIW) in my corvette and my impala, its not $100 around this neck of the woods, more like $55 at any lube shop (ie quick lube, etc).

i also say ya can extend the mileage a little with no probs but i would follow the reccomendations of the maker pretty closely myself.
 
Both my vehicles get Mobil 1----but my change intervals are the same 3000 for the car and 1000 for the bike.

Syn oil is superior---but it still gets dirty and needs to be changed---you won't get more miles out a syn oil change--but you will get better protection for the miles you run it between changes.

You can get 5 quarts of Mobil 1 at Walmart for $20 or so dollars----there's no reason to be paying $100 for an oil change.

And actually the hardest day to day use of an engine--- is a motorcycle engine that red lines at 14,000 to 17,000 rpms with a high compression ratio---nothing else even comes close.
 
Mobile 1 is often regarded as the best motor oil to use in a vehicle. That said, it usually is not good to place synthetic oil in a high mileage vehicle that previously only used regular oil. Apparently cracks in the seals form over time, and synthetic oil will leak through those cracks where regular oil will not. Using synthetic oil from the get go will usually prevent such cracks from forming.
 
omaha-beenglockin said:
And actually the hardest day to day use of an engine--- is a motorcycle engine that red lines at 14,000 to 17,000 rpms with a high compression ratio---nothing else even comes close.
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Really now?! In 1944 a GM 6-71N (naturally aspirated) produced 165 bhp with a 22:1 compression ration. Flash forward to 1985... Same block, same cylinders, lets add a blower (supercharger) for low end power, twin turbos, a by-pass valve and 165mm injectors in the 6V-71TAB to turn up the juice to 465 hp @ 2300 rpm with an 18:1 compression ratio. Now lets run that engine at 2100 rpm (90% of redline) for 4 hours continuously in a marine environment pushing 14 TONS against 6 foot waves at 28 knots. Cruise at 7 knots trolling for 8 hours and repeat 4 hour ride home at 29 knots since you just burned 1800 pounds of fuel and are now almost a ton lighter. Repeat the aforementioned for 5 out of 7 days for 3 months straight months.:eek:

THERE IS NO DOWNHILL or COASTING IN A FREAKING BOAT!, except, perhaps when you are "surfing" a 14 foot roller, only to have to "climb" the damn thing over and over again! I don't think a donor cycle EVEN has enough fuel to run that long continuosly, and certainly under no where NEAR that kind of a load, nor with such high compression, EGT, yadda yadda yadda....;)
 
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