synthetic oil changes?

don't be afraid to buy your own oil and take it to the dealer. Insist he use your oil (make sure is on the "approved" list) and you can knock $$ off of the oil change as you only are paying for the labor, thus the dealer still has that nice little paper trail called a record and your warranty is not voided.:D
 
Use it in the engine and gear cases. Try getting comfortable by looking at the Castrol, B/P Chevron or Shell pages to understand the great benifits.
I spent my whole working life in technical automotive. "Oil is cheaper then machinery".I was with Holley Peformance part of BFG Aerospace. and Clayton MFG. ( Automotive environmental Systems ) . All not some synthetics will give advantages over standars oil stock.
Beard and Glade ( Joe Glade& Amos Beard) Ran a cgas car at the salt. 1953 Stude 368" small block with Pontiac Hi Port heads . Dyno ( engine ) 825HP , 810 FTlbs torque. Record runs under one dominator and Mobile 1 10w30. After a season tear down to do a fresh up, no measurable wear. Next year no tear down. I am unsure if all have the extra money but blends will help. Also the king of synthetic additives for racing is Pro - Blend. Drop a bottle in your ATF and feel the difference.Do not forget that some of these multispeed ATs cost a bundle as a trans axle unit. Service them with synthetic also. You will hate your vehicle before you wear it out with normal driving

Be well
Floyd
 
Amsoil, 5w30 is ~8.oo a quart. I think it takes 6, plus a filter ` 10 bucks+ labor. s0, $70 bucks, maybe?
 
Ya---that's a lot of load and horsepower---but 2300 rpms is just baby steps compared to the 17,000 rpm's the bike will regularly reach and the 8000 to 11,000 rpm's where that engine lives at. We're talking wound up tight vs grumbling along.
 
Know you may not wanna hear this, but Wally World is under $50 for Mobil 1.

Every 10-14K.

The old 3K guideline was true with older oil types, but is becoming the victim of newer oils.

Of course, dusty/dirty environments will mandate more frequent changes.
 
i use mobil 1 in my scooter{'00 sportster} and so far am really happy with it. had a '91 jeep and used mobil 1 in it also. in both cases i've been very pleased with it. in a car i use the severe duty schedule for oil changes, with my scoot i change it in 1/2 the recommended miles. this type of thread on many forums takes on a life of its own it seems everybody has an opinion and it's a very strong opinion. I fall somewhere in the middle, i think it gives better protection but still needs to be changed at reasonable intervals. later,ahgar
 
Got a question about my ride. I have a 91 Blazer S-10 Tahoe, 4.3 V6. I bought it almost 4 years ago, and since then have put a motor in it. She's loud, but this motor runs fine, knock on wood. I have a small leak from the oil filter lines, enough to religiously check the oil every week, and before big trips. She has 250K on the truck itself. I use a regular FRAM oil filter, the Supertech Walmart oil, and Slick 50 for high mileage vehicles, every 3000 miles. I drive about 90 miles round trip to and from work every day, and try not to beat the living crap out of my truck. Unfortunately, since I can't get out of bed early in the morning any more, I'm sometimes stuck in the stop and go traffic that Baltimore is notorious for. I don't mind spending a couple dollars more to keep the truck running, any suggestions? Other than buy a new truck, I'm planning on buying a Toyota Tacoma, maybe by the end of the year.

Oh yeah, the Blazer had 167k on it when I bought it.
 
i don't have any personal experience with it but on some of the auto boards they didn't speak too highly of fram oil filters. I don't remember the particulars but i do remember the attitude that almost any filter was better than fram. good luck, later,ahgar
 
I know a guy who changes just the filter (and adds a quart to account for loss while changing it) at 5000 mi, then changes the Mobil 1 in his van. It works nicely for him. If your primary concern in the dirt, then that should help you get more use of superior lubricative and dynamic properties of the synthetics.

I usually go 5000 or so with Mobil 1 in my 2002 Silverado (5.4L V8), but never more than 7500. I was religious about the 3000 mi oil/filter changes when I used the regular 5W30 that was in the big barrels where I got my oil changed.
 
If you read the fine print on the filters, Wal marts 2-3 dollar Super tech filter catches more particles than 9-17 dollar Bosch and KN filters. I can't believe someone would pay 70-100 for an oil change they can do themselves in 15 minutes...unless it was for warrenty reasons. What happened to prevenative maintenance and the do-it-yourselfer. Super tech Oil also gets good reviews.
 
Slick-50 is auto snake oil, and in some cases can damage your engine. PTFE (Teflon) used in Slick-50 is a particulate, and has been known to clog oil filters and oil galleys in the engine. I've seen this first hand in my mechanic days.

Changing from a dino-oil to a synth in any vehicle (regardless of mileage) is safe. Synth doesn't shrink or crack seals.

-dan
 
I use amsoil (and matching EA filter) and LC20 and change every year (12-15,000 miles). If you're concerned, pay for an oil analysis and know for sure.
 
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