Synthetic Oil questions

etp777

etp777

Joined
Aug 12, 2002
Messages
2,259
OK, decided to go with synthetic this time when I got oil changed on my truck. Have a coupla questions though, as I've never used it in the past, and my dad, who used to work as a mechanic, never really used it either, except in one model of motorcycle he used to work on(particular model slips my mind, though can guarantee it was a Honda).

Anyways, a few questions. First off, I tend to cook off regular oil pretty quickly. I don't do any towing, or anything else hard, but the commutes every day(5 miles each way), seem to kill it pretty quick. 95 Isuzu Pickup, the smaller 2.3(2.4?)L 4 cylinder, 2WD. No towing, no big amounts of weight, but change it every 2K miles or so and even by then tends to be nicely black. Not like really cooked, but darkening up nicely, etc. You know, dark oil, time for an oil change.

Anyways, How do you know when it's time to change oil on Synthetics? I have Castrol Syntec in there right now, as guy suggested it, and it's a brand(and type of synthetic) that I've known people to use with good luck. I don't want to wait full 7K miles that little oil change sticker says, but not sure if synthetics darken up/etc like regular oil, so I can see when it's about time for a change.

Also, any problems with swithcing to a different synthetic next time I change? Not mixing them in the engine, but while I got Castrol Syntec this time, partly from lack of knowledge, thinking I might get the Valvoline synthetic for high milage engines next time, as I had this change and 76K, and expect I'll be at at least 81-82 before I change it again. Will I have any problems with the remnants of the Syntec left over in crank case/engine if I go to a different synthetic?
 
A regular oil change is still the simplest and cheapest form of preventative maintainence there is for the engine.I've been using Mobil 1 in my truck fo 8 years, keeping to the recommended change schedual. I don't think it's a good idea to change brands , pick one and stick to it they might not be compatable.
 
opinions about changing from dino to synth and back and changing brands of synth vary widely.

if you want serious data regarding how long is reasonable to keep synth in your vehicle, you could always get into oil analysis!
 
I prefer the water based stuff, but my ladyfriend prefers the synthetic, silicone based lubricant.

Whoops, wrong thread. :D :footinmou
 
Consumer Reports did a test of many many different brands and formulations of oil a few years back in a fleet of NYC taxis. Their results indicated that as long as the oil you're buying has the little star-shaped API approval stamp on it, it doesn't make any difference which brand you put in your car, nor if it's synthetic or natural. Furthermore, there was no detectable difference in wear between the cars having their oil changed every 3000 miles and those having it changed every 6000, nor in the test car they ran for 12000 miles between changes. What it sounds like to me is that you are spending 3-6 times as much money as you should be on oil by changing it every 2k miles, and probably twice as much buying synthetic that makes no difference whatsoever to your engine.

http://www.xs11.com/stories/croil96.htm
 
Color doesn't always indicate when your oil needs changed. Unless you have an oil analysis done, i imagine that your current oil change interval is fine.
 
My wife and I both use Mobil 1. When you first start to use synthetics, your oil will seem to get dirty fast, that's because the synthetic starts busting up all the grime inside your engine. After a couple of changes you will notice that it stays cleaner longer.
Another good thing is, synthetics wont get a build up of acids from short trips.

IMO, just better oil all the way around, just don't ever use it in an engine that isn't broken in, as synthetic oil will keep the rings from seating.

Synthetics are great for manual transmissions, and differentials too.
 
Oil turning shiny black in and of itself is not necessarily a change indicator. This just means that it is doing its job of suspending particulates. If it starts turning dingy or grey, however, it is past due for changing.

I have used Amsoil synthetic since 1977. Each vehicle was bought new, and I put seven or eight thousand breaking in miles on them before changing to the synthetic. I kept the '77 Impala station wagon 12 years, and it went from family car to commuter to my hunting and fishing vehicle. Gave it to my father in law to use around his farm, and he kept it three more years before selling it to a couple of guys as a painter's car. Kept the '85 Buick Riviera 11 years, and now have 140 thousand on an eight year old '96 Impala SS. In the first two cars I changed the oil and filter once yearly. I never had any engine-related trouble with any of them. I change the Impala SS every 6500.

I don't know about the other synthetics, but Amsoil used to advise that if used for the first time in an older engine which had previously used petroleum-based oils, the Amsoil could cause leaks by cleaning out false seals
(areas around bearings where solidified oil was preventing older seals from leaking.)

Where the Amsoil makes its presence most apparent to me is cold weather starts. The car starts right up and runs smoothly, no cold engine roughness.

In my opinion, Amsoil becomes cost effective only if you plan to keep a vehicle for an extended period of time. If you trade cars frequently, don't bother.
 
Hoping to run this thing until at least 130K, if not more. P art of reason I stay on top of oil changes. Figure I'll probably burn up a clutch between now and then, way I drive it, but dont' really expect I'll have much other trouble(as long as I take care of htings like changing oil, timing belt sometime here, cleaning air filter, etc).

I've seen, and my Dad has too, engines that ran all synthetics, and ones that ran standard, even with regular changes, and the synthetics have always seemed to be in a bit better condition when stripped down years later. These were motorcycles, not car, but friction is friction.

I have been checkign for leaks periodically here, took road trip day after I got it changed, and put 600 miles on it, no problems so far. Course, 600 miles ain't nothing even on a regular set of oil
 
I only run synthetic in my cars (Mobil 1). I just think of the higher cost as insurance and peace of mind, particularly in my Corvette (which came filled with synthetic from the factory).

As far as change intervals, normally every 3K miles in the Vette (it gets a lot of abuse ;) ) and 5-6K for the others. Again, I'm sure the oil is fine even at the 5-6K interval, but it makes me feel better by changing it.
 
Another vote for Amsoil,I have been using this for a few years,and it has worked very well for me.
 
I have used oils exclusivly from Ashland Oil ( The parent company of Valvoline) since I started Driving almost 30 years ago. My father worked for Ashland and so did I while I was going to college. The equipment we used all ran on Valvoline and problems were few.
In my personal vehicles I have used Valvoline and I have never had an Oil-related Breakdown. Of course, my father drilled into my head the benifits of regular oil changes.
 
Clean is the most important thing. Change it often. Think on an additive
The kind that bond to the metal. Do not get anything with teflon in it.
I worked in a paper mill and we started adding something called mil tech to the oil in a lot of machines and gear boxes.
Man was it ever sensational. It works and works great.
I use regular oil in all my machinery and add the hi tech additives.
I don't think any synthetic oil can come close to what this does.
In an old 190,000 buick mile I was given the difference was dramatic.
When I changed the oil and added the lubricant the engine smoothed out very noticable in a day or 2 and mileage increased a bit.
I have never seen any product you can add to an engine where I could notice the difference except here.
In the paper mill there was an amazing difference when we opened up the machinery we had and saw the difference in the inside compared to ones from before the use of mil tech.
I'm sure mil tech isn't necessary since there are numerous additives that do perform the same way by bonding to the metal but be sure not get anything with teflon or the gunky crap in them since they do more harm than good.
 
I used synthetic in my truck..changed oil every 6 to 7 thousand miles..its life is about double that of conventional motor oil. never had a problem..
 
Moving to Gadgets & Gear.
 
Ok here's the scoop on Synthetic oil (any brand)..........
I worked for a Amzoil a few years ago to run a field experiment on consumer
use patterns. What we found after 8 years was the following..........

1.) While Syn oil will last and lube up to 12,000 miles the oil filter WILL NOT.
This requires a filter change at mid point of 7,500 mi with the addition
of fresh Qt. of Syn oil to replenish the additive package in the oil.
There is no known automotive spin on paper filter system that will last
beyond a safe 3000mi change cycle. Cotton pack spin on filters are
preferred for Syn oils due to the 7,500mi filter change cycle.

2.) Syn oils have exceptional cleaning properties that can cause oil burning
in older higher mileage vehicles. This is especially true in vehicles that
have not been maintained on a rigorus schedule. The found safe change
over mileage from mineral based to syn oil is no more than 35,000 mi to
avoid any opportunity to begin oil consumption.

3.) Syn oils will withstand extreme crankcase operating tempratures as
compared to mineral base oils which coke (cook down) at about 200
deg.F. This characteristic will benifit vehicles that tow or move heavy
loads as long as the manf. change cycle is maintained.

3.) Syn oils have low drag coeffecient (less friction) as compared to mineral
oils and will yield moderate increase in both H.P. and mileage
depending on vehicle configuration and driver habits. This low drag will
also aid in winter service due to the increased flowing of syn oils when
compared to mineral oils (less tendancy to "gel" when cold).

4.) Syn oils are NOT recommended to be used as break in oils due to the low
friction coeffecient. If used as breaking oils the break in time could be
compromised or lead to oil consumption.
 
TomW said:
In the paper mill there was an amazing difference when we opened up the machinery we had and saw the difference in the inside compared to ones from before the use of mil tech.
Click to expand...

Any of you use it in your cars? Militec1 is kinda pricey but if it works as well on cars as it did on machinery it could be worth. And maybe replace the need for synthetics.
 
I use mil tec in my car, boat and in the high speed sewing machines in my shop.
It's pricey for sure but lasts pretty long. I got a gallon.
I add about an ounce to each quart of oil I use if I remember. I started out with 6 ounces in the oil change. I add a couple tablespoons to the sewing machines. They don't use much oil so I've squirted a little in with a lube syringe when adding oil.
When I bought the gallon I got it after e-mail with the rep.
My original idea was to heat the oil mil tech mixture and run it in the sewing machines since unlike IC engines they run very cool but he said it wasn't necessary.
So far it works great in everything I use it in.
 
I ran a Nissan Pickup with a 2.4L fule injected motor for for about 11 years. I used an AMSOIL bypass filter and a constant filter (all the time big canister) with AMSOIL synthetic engine oil. I changed the oil and filters once a year. I never had a problem of any kind and the engine oil analysis I did always came back good. At about 25K miles once, I started showing slightly elevated metals but, nothing at all dangerous.

The convenice was just as important at the time as cost savings, one less chore to worry about.
 
Mercedes (and I'm pretty sure Porsche and BMW, but I'm not sure since I don't own those) uses synthetic now EXCLUSIVELY. I'm pretty sure they use Mobil 1, and the Benzes have a computer that is built into the engine that tells you when you need service. It depends on your driving habits, and type of driving you do. I have pair of ML320s and mine goes in at about 9,000 miles and my wife's goes in usually around 10K (we use her car on the highway alot more because of the kiddie seats. We have yet to burn any oil in either vehicle, and both have around 50K miles on them. My rationale is that if the little german elves are comfortable with it, so am I. ;)
 
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