Table top bandsaw recommendation

Thanks everyone. I am browsing the used ads now to see what I can find. I may have to go with a porta band and mount in a vise or build a stand for. My biggest issue is space. I need one that is on the small side since I am so limited


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I mounted mine on top of an old wooden desk that was already part of the shop, so mine didn't take up anymore floor space.

I took a piece of that angle iron that has all the holes in it, (not sure what that stuff is called) and bolted that to the top of the saw, then bolted the other side of that to a large l bracket and bolted that down to the desk. The bottom of the saw is just setting on a piece of gum rubber on the desk.

It's solid and doesn't take up much space, the desk was a catch all anyway.

To be clear I'm talking about a HF portaband.
 
I mounted mine on top of an old wooden desk that was already part of the shop, so mine didn't take up anymore floor space.

I took a piece of that angle iron that has all the holes in it, (not sure what that stuff is called) and bolted that to the top of the saw, then bolted the other side of that to a large l bracket and bolted that down to the desk. The bottom of the saw is just setting on a piece of gum rubber on the desk.

It's solid and doesn't take up much space, the desk was a catch all anyway.

To be clear I'm talking about a HF portaband.



Can you post a picture of this set up for me? I may have to get a bandsaw for metal as well, that slipped my mind when I picked this one up....


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I had one of those, for trimming scales to the tang shape, and the motor went bad on me. Ryobi describes it as a "powerful" motor, but it isn't made to cut much thickness.


Advice:

DON'T cut metal with it. It isn't made to do it.
Get a good blade with carbide teeth. They will cut wood for years with care. I use Lenox Die-master 2 blades from cyberwoodworking.com
Clean everything, grease what gets greased, and tune it up to get everything square.
Upgrade the guide rollers if they are bad or cheap.
Connect to a vacuum or dust collector system. It will make the tool last longer and keep the shop a lot cleaner. An automatic switch that will turn the vac on when you turn the saw on costs about $40.
Don't force the cut. Let the saw cut at its own rate.

Stacy what TPI would you recommend for wood with those Lenox Die-master 2 blades for hard woods and synthetic material scales? I just picked up a brand new HF 9" wood bandsaw on a deal for $15. The blade they come with is pretty much useless for anything harder than pine.
 
Just purchased a ryobi bs904 table band saw for 40 bucks. I will need to get the yellow key for the switch and a blade but can't beat the price. Any experience with these? I see they don't recommend metal cutting with this, but some searches came up with people using this to cut metal. Any advice on this?


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I had the bs902 and it was the most worthless tool I've ever owned. It couldn't even cut a straight line in 1/4" MDF with a sharp new blade and infinite adjustment. I don't know anything about the 904, but if it's built with the same adjustment mechanisms, it might give you headaches.
 
I had the bs902 and it was the most worthless tool I've ever owned. It couldn't even cut a straight line in 1/4" MDF with a sharp new blade and infinite adjustment. I don't know anything about the 904, but if it's built with the same adjustment mechanisms, it might give you headaches.

Good to know. I still haven't had to to work on it yet but will keep that in mind. If nothing else it builds my experience tinkering with tools to get them "working" (in this case)

Fingers crossed it wasn't a wasted 40


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One option is to get an older 10" or 12" benchtop Craftsman or similar well built unit, and change the motor to 3Ph with a VFD. You want one with a V-belt pulley on the motor. This modification will allow slow speed for a metal cutting blade, and fast for wood.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-194...266211?hash=item2a6089bde3:g:75UAAOSwXshWrUF~


''Modifying modern band saws is harder, because the motor mounts to the frame and the multi-groove pulleys are not going to fit most 3Ph motors. It can be done, but isn't plug-and-play.

For a fairly good modern benchtop saw for wood only, Craftsman and Ryobi make decent units.

For metal, get a HF4X6" metal cutting bandsaw and throw away the base and vise ( or keep it for some other project). Mount the bandsaw arm vertical on your bench and beef up the flimsy sheet metal cutting table with a 1/4" steel plate. Mount the motor behind it on the benchtop and connect to the gear box with a V-belt. Run on the slowest setting. If you have the ability to weld, lengthen the upper arm 6" so the throat space will get down to 1". "

Stacy,
I would love to see a picture of your HF 4x6 conversion. I don't need mine as a cutoff saw any longer and your description of bench mounting it sounds intriguing.
 
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