Taboo talk ~ pocket pull thru sharpener....that works!

Wolfjohn

Wolfjohn

Joined
May 16, 2002
Messages
475
Ok...ok...I know this isn't the thing most people care to hear especially those of us in the knifemaking world but, I found the greatest little pocket sharpener (carbide) I've ever seen...it's made by Benchmade (and others I suppose). Anyways, if you're out someplace and need to put back on a decent edge quickly, this is a dandy and it's easy to stow in your pocket too. It runsa about $15.
4525052256_bf39c84bb6_o.jpg
 
I would use the following before I used a carbide scraper in the woods.

1. The palm of my hand.
2. My jeans
3. A rock

Atleast I can somewhat control the angle with the methods above.
 
i carry some 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper in my wallet, its lighter, more compact, gives a better edge, and is probably cheaper..
 
i carry the dmt double sided diafold out in the field. spend a little more for a much better product. it's not that much heavier too.
 
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+1 :thumbup: That's a great deal for those things. I think I shelled out like $60 a piece for those, and I've got three of them, XXcourse -to- XXfine. They work great and weigh next to nothing.


Carbide scrapers = :thumbdn:+:(
 
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Wolfjohn said:
Ok...ok...I know this isn't the thing most people care to hear especially those of us in the knifemaking world but, I found the greatest little pocket sharpener (carbide) I've ever seen...it's made by Benchmade (and others I suppose). Anyways, if you're out someplace and need to put back on a decent edge quickly, this is a dandy and it's easy to stow in your pocket too. It runsa about $15.
carbidesharpener.jpg
Click to expand...

Those sharpeners work by peeling away metal to try and form an edge. My suggestion would be for you to use one, and then look at your edge under magnification. You might change your mind (or at least not use the word "decent"). They remove too much metal, and leave a jagged, torn up bevel. Also the angle is usually very high, all of which has to be repaired. Here's an example... (picture stolen off the 'net) :)

carbideedge.jpg



cbw
 
Even a cheapie Smith's diamond sharpening rod won't run you more than $10, and in my experience is much better than any pull-through type i've found, while being as portable as a ballpoint pen.
 
I tested out half a dozen different pull through sharpeners and examined the results with a 100x microscope. They ranged from carbide to carbide/ceramic combo to diamond coated. All of them resulted in edges comparable to the edge in cbw's post above. Some produced less damage than others but they all resulted in the same sort of torn toothy edges that went dull very fast.

Stay away.
 
Friends don't let friends use pull-through sharpeners. I am astounded that Benchmade, a higher end production knifemaker, puts their name on one of these contraptions.
 
Stop torturing your knives!
Get a real sharpener!
Cheap china knives from gas stations BARELY deserve the treatment of a carbide scraper.
Coarse, uneven, jagged, and totally wrong!
 
cbwx34 said:
Those sharpeners work by peeling away metal to try and form an edge. My suggestion would be for you to use one, and then look at your edge under magnification. You might change your mind (or at least not use the word "decent"). They remove too much metal, and leave a jagged, torn up bevel. Also the angle is usually very high, all of which has to be repaired. Here's an example... (picture stolen off the 'net) :)

carbideedge.jpg



cbw
Click to expand...

Who would treat their knife like that :( I treat the blades on my lawn mower better.
 
I carry an Accusharp drag-through (white body with blue knuckle guard) in my EDC bag as part of a more comprehensive sharpening kit. I use it only for doing in-the-field repair of severely damaged or dulled edges, and then take a coarse DMT to it to remove the damage incurred by the drag-through. It's very rare when I have to use it, but when I do I'm glad to have it. They DO have a use--just be aware that it doesn't sharpen. It's great for reprofiling heavy damage but that's as far as it goes.
 
I agree, you can use them in a pinch to re-bevel a thick blade quick if you are going to finish it convex, tear the metal off with the carbides, then go through 220-1500 and it will be fine and sharp. And it saves a lot of work with the sandpaper. That is actually one of the best ways to sharpen a Khukuri. But a pocket knife with a thin edge? No thanks.
 
The Accusharp drag-through has a more narrow angle than most drag-throughs. After removing the gouges from the edge with a diamond stone I can take the blade to a sharpmaker no problem. Just thought I'd clarify. :)
 
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