Takedown Bow Advice - Use in Wilderness

Q

Quirt

Joined
Oct 10, 2005
Messages
1,030
Okay call me a John Rambo wanna be...Ever since Rambo the thought of having a breakdown Recurve (not compound thank you very much) has intrigued me. Having the capacity to assemble a bow in the field from a pack and being able to procure small game in a survival situation interests me. On a scale of 0-10 (zero means I know nothing, 10 means I should be writing a book, starring on You Tube (wait never mind, belay that last remark) or being an instructor....I'm a 0.5. So I'm open to guidance from my BF brothers 'n sisters who know more than me #4 to #10s.

My plan (correct or guide me accordingly) is to purchase a Samick Sage Takedown Recurve Bow (first choice) or Martin Jaguar (second choice) with #25 or #30 pound limbs on-line (savings). Good choice, wrong choice??

Once purchased, then take it to a Pro Shop somewhere to be fitted with all the proper accouterments and to seek professional-qualified lessons. As I grow in competence and confidence I'll expand into stronger limbs. I have no intention of going bat-nuts-crazy as a new hobby...just have another resource/tool and skill to use as need. Plus I can practice in the pasture without distributing the neighbors and keep my skill current.

Talk to me about my purchase plan and the strategy I'm considering.
 
I can't help but have been thinking of getting a takedown also. I was thinking #45 as then it should be heavy enough for deer.
 
Might I suggest you make a PVC take-down first and carry it around for a bit to see if that is really what you want. Very little money spent up front.
If you have your heart set on this then your course of action listed above is pretty good, aside from the fact that your local pro shop will probably know squat about traditional archery. I find it best to seek a mentor and that is more likely what the pro shop can help with; pointing you in the right direction.
I shoot a Bear Take-down, one of the smoothest bows I've shot, and I can't remember the last time I took the limbs off, this is where the PVC bow comes in, it's shorter and just as powerful as store bought. This guy has a bunch of vids and are fun to watch.

[video=youtube;1P_KEIlGFNc]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1P_KEIlGFNc[/video]
 
Great advice!!! Awesome video. Off to the hardware store this week!!! Thx!

.l
mewolf1 said:
Might I suggest you make a PVC take-down first and carry it around for a bit to see if that is really what you want. Very little money spent up front.
If you have your heart set on this then your course of action listed above is pretty good, aside from the fact that your local pro shop will probably know squat about traditional archery. I find it best to seek a mentor and that is more likely what the pro shop can help with; pointing you in the right direction.
I shoot a Bear Take-down, one of the smoothest bows I've shot, and I can't remember the last time I took the limbs off, this is where the PVC bow comes in, it's shorter and just as powerful as store bought. This guy has a bunch of vids and are fun to watch.

[video=youtube;1P_KEIlGFNc]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1P_KEIlGFNc[/video]
Click to expand...
 
I believe a 45# draw at 28" is pretty much the minimum standard for hunting medium sized game to large game. So, If you build your own, and are aiming for a survival tool for the larger game build your bow to that weight or heavier. If this an après SHTF then it hardly matters except the cast and arrow speed from a 25# bow is usually lacking a bit (it's more complicated, if you are close enough a 25-30 pound bow will certainly and reliably take down medium game). I don't believe a PVC bow, at a given weight, will develop the limb speed that a laminated or well built primitive bow will. However, knowing how to build one could be a valuable skill.
 
The PVC bow idea is a really good idea for starting out and deciding if you want to get into the world of traditional archery, I'ts really nice to be able to make a few of them in different # so you can gradually get up to a higher # especially if your wanting to hunt with one. Just an FYI most states require a 50# min for hunting but that might not be the case in your state. Once you decide you love trade archery which I'm sure you will look up threeriversarchery.com as mentioned in a above post most local archery and sporting good stores know jack about traditional archery. Three rivers is the go to place for most any trad archer I know. There customer service is top notch and there delivery times are excellent. Best of luck and shoot them straight.
 
Samick Sage I bought after lotsa online research. Got the biggest pound rating they offered since I had enough strength.
It's a great bow for the money but make sure you don't have monkey arms like me. I should have gone with a 2 inch longer bow. At least the range master said that's the reason the string keeps blueing my forearm. Lol.
Also if you can pull the pounds doesn't mean you can control them. Now my brother in law has fun with mine. And I'm looking for a longer take down bow with a few less pounds.
 
Bow length has nothing to do with string slap (despite what the "master" said). String slap is the result of several possible shortcomings in technique - is your bow arm locked when you are shooting, or slightly bent? Is your stance perpendicular to the target, or do you "open" your stance a bit? A poor release, "plucking" the string, etc. can be other culprits.

Good point about understanding the difference between being able to pull "X" number of pounds, and being able to control that poundage. Many newcomers only pay attention to the former, and end up over-bowed and developing poor technique as a result. :thumbup:
 
Smithhammer said:
Bow length has nothing to do with string slap (despite what the "master" said). String slap is the result of several possible shortcomings in technique - is your bow arm locked when you are shooting, or slightly bent? Is your stance perpendicular to the target, or do you "open" your stance a bit? A poor release, "plucking" the string, etc. can be other culprits.

Good point about understanding the difference between being able to pull "X" number of pounds, and being able to control that poundage. Many newcomers only pay attention to the former, and end up over-bowed and developing poor technique as a result. :thumbup:
Click to expand...
Thanks for your help. I really want to figure this out and not have to wear an armguard like a baby.
The "master" told me to have my bow arm straight. Mainly for consistency, he also said lots of people bend it, which is fine too. My stance was good too per his instructions (completely perpendicular) and with his longer bow I never slapped my arm. When I went back to the shorter Samick Sage I got my forearm slapped again.
In archery forums (like this one here http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=752030) they usually suspect too much draw length for a particular bow.
Wouldn't a bigger bow allow for more draw length and help avoid getting slapped?
 
It's always really hard to solve form issues over the internet, having no idea what your form looks like, but there really is no direct correlation between overall bow length (AMO) and string slap. It's a form issue (as most of the people in that link you provided have also stated). Whether a bow is 54" or 68" the string is supposed to travel straight toward the bow upon release, not to the side where it's hitting your arm. I know a guy with a 30" draw length who shoots a 56" hybrid bow, and he doesn't get any string slap.

The two most common reasons that a bowstring (regardless of length) might be hitting your arm are, 1) a poor release that is causing the string to travel at an angle as it leaves your fingers, or 2) a bow arm with your elbow locked "in" so that it is more likely in the path of the string.

As far as #1 goes, a clean release is extremely important, as is follow-through after the release. But again, since I can't see how you are releasing the string, I have no idea if this might be a factor or not.

In terms of #2 (again, since I can't see your form), make sure that your elbow is rotated out rather than in. Some people can get away with "locking" their arm, and some can't, based on differences in physiology. For some, when they lock their arm, it brings the elbow too far in, causing slap. And some coaches argue that a more relaxed (slightly bent) bow arm is better, for several reasons including reducing string slap, encouraging back tension as opposed to arm strength, etc.

I will say this about shorter bows, though - a shorter bow, by nature, will have a steeper string angle at full draw than a longer bow, and the longer your draw length is, the more this will be the case. The steeper the string angle, the better your release has to be. Shorter bows tend to be less forgiving of a sloppy release, and this can be one cause of a string that travels errantly, and thus hits your arm. But again - it's more important to think of this as a release issue, and work on improving that, rather than being the direct result of bow length, imo.

I'm assuming your Samick is 62" AMO? That's not a particularly short recurve, by any means. Out of curiosity, what is your draw length?
 
Ah I see. A longer bow would only compensate for bad technique but not fix the real issue.

My draw length when dividing wingspan by 2.5 is 30 inch.
When I measure it from the front of a bow to the corner of my mouth (not bending the head into the string) its more like 31 inch.
Being 6 feet 2, my arm length is a bit more than average when looking at the chart they have here http://mathewsinc.com/forums-home/topic/z7-extreme-new-bow-need-help-and-advice/

You are right, the Samick Sage is 62"

Thank you.
:-)
 
Happy to help! And yeah, you have a pretty long draw length! Even with a 62" bow, you may be at the limits of what it will accomodate - I'm not sure with the Sage, since I don't own one, and my DL is only 28."

Do you feel the bow stacking as you reach full-draw? That can cause a premature (and thus less than perfect) release as well.

That said, a lot of it has to do with bow design, as much as length. There are definitely 62" bows that will work fine for you, but not all. And yeah, in general, longer bows are going to be more forgiving, and with your draw length, you may need to shoot some longer bows and see if you notice a difference.

Apology - didn't mean to derail this thread. Mewolf's suggestion is an excellent one. One of these days, I really need to get around to building one of Nick's designs! His YouTube channel is pretty cool. :thumbup:
 
Last edited:
Thanks again.
And you are not really derailing. I guess the OP also appreciates the take away that holding a few bows in real life and chatting with an experienced archer will be more valuable than online research. :-D
Stacking, I had to look it up, I guess I'm right at the border of stacking. It gets noticeably harder but it's not really a "wall" which I hit.
I'll try longer bows since they helped in the past and make sure to get my technique looked at more often. There are so many things to look at that all other thoughts disappear while shooting. Kind of Zen exercise until one gets more experienced I guess :-p

Smithhammer said:
Happy to help! And yeah, you have a pretty long draw length! Even with a 62" bow, you may be at the limits of what it will accomodate - I'm not sure with the Sage, since I don't own one, and my DL is only 28."

Do you feel the bow stacking as you reach full-draw? That can cause a premature (and thus less than perfect) release as well.

That said, a lot of it has to do with bow design, as much as length. There are definitely 62" bows that will work fine for you, but not all. And yeah, in general, longer bows are going to be more forgiving, and with your draw length, you may need to shoot some longer bows and see if you notice a difference.

Apology - didn't mean to derail this thread. Mewolf's suggestion is an excellent one. One of these days, I really need to get around to building one of Nick's designs! His YouTube channel is pretty cool. :thumbup:
Click to expand...
 
More my style.


Pack Rifle (.22LR):
gallery_thn_guns_01.jpg

image_packrifle.jpg

fishingReel.jpg

gallery_lg_guns_08.jpg


Weight: 15.5 oz - less than 1 pound.
Overall Length: 33".
Takedown Length: 17".
Width: 7/8".
Height: 4".
Sights: Peep sight. Scope mount available.
Reel and expandable rod available too to covert to fishing rig.



As it is, I have this until I get a Pack Rifle. FI Bronco (one barrel - .22LR):
FI%2520Bronco.jpg
 
Last edited:
Farnsrocket said:
Go here and start reading:

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/forumdisplay.php?f=5

I have a 25lb Samick Sage......... I was going to go 45lb but am glad I didn't. Take your time and develop good skills.
Click to expand...

Thanks for that link and the great info smithhammer! I've been making my transition back into traditional archery from hunting with firearms, but was only really into it when I was a kid, been a lot to learn before even buying anything so far yet. Still have more to learn :thumbup:
 
After you run out of ammo , all you've got is a fancy club. I can make my own archery tackle, from scratch. ;)
leghog said:
More my style.


Pack Rifle (.22LR):
gallery_thn_guns_01.jpg

image_packrifle.jpg

fishingReel.jpg

gallery_lg_guns_08.jpg


Weight: 15.5 oz - less than 1 pound.
Overall Length: 33".
Takedown Length: 17".
Width: 7/8".
Height: 4".
Sights: Peep sight. Scope mount available.
Reel and expandable rod available too to covert to fishing rig.



As it is, I have this until I get a Pack Rifle. FI Bronco (one barrel - .22LR):
FI%2520Bronco.jpg
Click to expand...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top