Takedown Bow Advice - Use in Wilderness

I inherited a beautiful black widow takedown recurve from my father, it's a dream to shoot and just plain cool to have.

It'll probably cost you a few more dollars than the ones that you mentioned but you might want to check them out to see what the old school take down designs are like.

If you really get into it you can custom order a bow from them in one of many choices of wood for your limbs and riser. They're as much works of art as they are effective hunting tools and all around fun plinkers.


If my shoulder wasn't wrecked it'd be the only bow I'd use, a good shot from it just brings a special kind if satisfaction.
 
The folding bows are a cool novelty but if you have any serious interest, the Samick Sage (62") or the Samick Journey (64" great if you're a tall person with long arms) are great starter bows. I started with 35# but actually found 25# easier to learn on due my arm injury. 35# is plenty for small game. Technically these Samick bows are called "bolt downs" since you literally tighten a bolt down.

This is different to the the International Limb Fitting (ILF) standard system where you basically "click" in the limbs to the riser. (No tools needed.) ILF is used for most olympic bows and more advanced hunting recurves since they give you adjustability in weight for tuning and the choice of any limb that is ILF standard. If you're just starting out, you won't need to worry about this. But if you have cash to burn check out the Trad Tech Titan III from Lancaster Archery.

Its better to learn the right way and not pick up bad habits / bad form.... some people are naturals (not me!) and some people need a good process and form to learn from.
So join a club and get some coaching if you can.
 
Daniel L said:
The folding bows are a cool novelty
Click to expand...

Yes folding bows are cool but not a novelty and certainly nothing new. Great Northern has been making them for years. I have a Critter Gitter with the jack knife option that is nearly 20 years old now. Its still a great bow.
 
Regarding the PVC bows - the useful temperature range seems to be between 60 F and 120 F. Below 60 F and you hit the ductile to brittle range. If it is too cold then you risk shattering the bow. Above 120 F and you loose the strength of the bow. It seems that, if you are planning on using the bow in the cold it is NOT a viable survival weapon.
 
You won't get a lot of input from a pro shop. All they will do is try to convince you to buy the newest, bestest, fastest expensive wheel bow because its "what real archers use and every thing else is crap". Get yourself a nice takedown bow and learn how to use it, then decide what direction you want to go.
 
Just a couple things from a coaching perspective.

Lighter is better. Always. Always, and forever. There are heaps of muscles in your shoulders and back that almost no one ever uses. The best way to develop them is to shoot. The best way to ruin them is to shoot too heavy. Rotator cuffs just don't heal. they almost never get back to 100%.

One technique does not fit all, and a good coach will not teach you how to shoot like him, he will teach you how to shoot well as you. everyone is a bit different, and so there are a huge number of subtle changes you can make to fit your body.

Don't spend money on a bow until you know how to shoot. I knew how to shoot pretty well when I bought my bow, and it still took three draw length adjustments to get it to fit. That would not have been possible with other bows, and would not have mattered as much with a recurve or stick. Contrast that to a buddy who was quite good, and was sold a bow that barely fit at all (he maxes the draw, and cannot anchor back as far as he would like) Point is, if you are buying, you should be able to test drive it first.
And if you are still learning how to shoot, then its tougher to test drive it. kinda like doing your drivers test in dealership demonstrator.
Crossbows are not more powerful than regular bows. the limbs are heavier to make up for the shorter leverage. They also allow you to draw more than you otherwise would. But saying that crossbows are more powerful than other bows is not entirely correct.

As for proshops, if you are being sold to, find another shop. Some will just go for the sale. Some want you to come back. Generally speaking the little single operator guys will look after you. also be honest with them as far as your needs. Very often they can point you in a better direction if they know how likely you are to upgrade, or what sort of budget you are on. the last thing a good owner wants to do is sell you something that isn't going to work, or that won't grow with your skills.
 
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