Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith
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Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
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While working on a sword recently, I got a chance to snap some photos. This is only of the fitting process for the handle. I'll post more on this sword later. Some of you saw it at Ashokan.
The handle block is carved and fitted to the degree desired before fitting it to the tang. The hole is as snug as is reasonable, but there is always some slop and twist. When the pommel is tightened, the handle can slip to one side or the other a tad. Any misalignment shows as a huge problem. The answer is to fill the hole with a strong resin that will make a dead solid fit-up.
1) First, make sure the handle sits flat on the bolster/shoulder/guard. Then, open up the last 1-2" of the hole a bit so it is about .10" larger than the tang. Just make it have enough space to allow the epoxy to fill it with enough thickness to be strong.
2) Apply melted bee's wax to the tang and shoulder it will sit on.
3)Slip the handle on the tang and when about 1" to 2" from the shoulder, pour/push some slow cure structural epoxy into the hole. Acraglass, PC-7, T-88 west system, whatever. It can be a regular thickness liquid, a gel, or a putty style. I prefer the putty. Keep the mix-pot at the bench for checking the cure.
4) Tighten the pommel snug, checking the alignment at the shoulder. I like to wrap the handle in paper towels to keep epoxy from getting all over the place. Wipe off any squeeze-out or drips at the shoulder/guard. After about 30 minutes, snug the pommel again.
5) Set aside to cure in an upright position. After the extra epoxy in the work pot has set up firm ( usually 2-4 hours), but isn't fully hard, remove the pommel and WITHOUT TWISTING, pull the handle straight up about 2". Scrape away any stuck epoxy on the tang and apply some grease or light wax to the tang if needed. Return handle to the shoulder and tighten pommel again. Let sit there for 24 hours or longer.
6) When the epoxy is fully cured, remove the pommel and work the handle off the tang. It will be snug at first, but after a few on-off cycles, it should move OK.
The handle block is carved and fitted to the degree desired before fitting it to the tang. The hole is as snug as is reasonable, but there is always some slop and twist. When the pommel is tightened, the handle can slip to one side or the other a tad. Any misalignment shows as a huge problem. The answer is to fill the hole with a strong resin that will make a dead solid fit-up.
1) First, make sure the handle sits flat on the bolster/shoulder/guard. Then, open up the last 1-2" of the hole a bit so it is about .10" larger than the tang. Just make it have enough space to allow the epoxy to fill it with enough thickness to be strong.
2) Apply melted bee's wax to the tang and shoulder it will sit on.
3)Slip the handle on the tang and when about 1" to 2" from the shoulder, pour/push some slow cure structural epoxy into the hole. Acraglass, PC-7, T-88 west system, whatever. It can be a regular thickness liquid, a gel, or a putty style. I prefer the putty. Keep the mix-pot at the bench for checking the cure.
4) Tighten the pommel snug, checking the alignment at the shoulder. I like to wrap the handle in paper towels to keep epoxy from getting all over the place. Wipe off any squeeze-out or drips at the shoulder/guard. After about 30 minutes, snug the pommel again.
5) Set aside to cure in an upright position. After the extra epoxy in the work pot has set up firm ( usually 2-4 hours), but isn't fully hard, remove the pommel and WITHOUT TWISTING, pull the handle straight up about 2". Scrape away any stuck epoxy on the tang and apply some grease or light wax to the tang if needed. Return handle to the shoulder and tighten pommel again. Let sit there for 24 hours or longer.
6) When the epoxy is fully cured, remove the pommel and work the handle off the tang. It will be snug at first, but after a few on-off cycles, it should move OK.
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