Tandy barge cement?

I used to use "real" barge cement but now you have to have a tax # to buy it from Tandy, so I use their house brand - which is made for them by Barge -- go figure.
 
I use the real stuff (yellow label not blue label which is toluene free which is worthless) of course I have a tax number on file with Tandy so I have not had problems getting the real stuff. I also get the thinner to keep it from drying in the glue bottle)

_Page
 
Tandy gets their Barge batch tinted(opaque tan) to blend better with leather but it is the same stuff as the yellow label Barge.... or so the Tandy rep tells me. The blue label Barge crap breaks down in water and oil, which sucks.... avoid that.

Rick
 
If you buy it in the little tubes, you can still get the "real" yellow label stuff, even in Canada (MEC stores)
or ebay
Some sellers seem to have a side business reselling larger containers of the good stuff too.

If you're just doing one or two, the tube is one option.


Rick says it's the same?
I'll buy a bit and give it a sniff, Rick does the Tandy smell the same as the yellow label Barge?
 
yes.... it makes me cough everytime!......... woah.... I can't feel my face.
 
All Tanner's Bond contact and rubber cements are made using our exclusive formula designed especially for Tandy Leather Factory by Original Barge Cement.
Click to expand...

The rep said it is not the Toluene Free crap.... Tandy also sells the Toluene free version of Tanner's bond.

ETA: I DO NOT SEE TOLUENE LISTED ON THE LABEL..... hmmmmmmmm.
 
Last edited:
On the advice from Mr. Paul Long, I use DAP weldwood contact cement from my local hardware store. Haven't had any problems yet.
 
I used to use Barge, and/or Weldwood. I switched to "Leatherweld", which can be ordered from all the knife supply catalogs. It literally fuses the leather fibers together when used right. I don't think I would have to stitch the sheaths if I didn't want to. On some small sheaths/blade covers, like for Sgian Dubhs, I don't stitch them . I have never had one fail.
 
Thanks a ton, guys! You answered my question beautifully. Sometimes I lack the foresight to ask two questions at once.

Is there a particular leather that works best? It seems there are at least a couple of different tanning solutions. Do these make a difference? should I use a particularily tanned leather, or avoid using a certain type?

Thanks again for all the help, gentlemen!
 
The Weldwood contact cement will work as well, if not better, than the other products mentioned. It's also usually less expensive and no shipping costs when purchased local. Buy it in the quart size and pour small amount into a smaller glue pot/brush holder for use. My last quart has lasted 10+ months and I do a lot of sheaths and gun leather.
 
grizzled gizzard said:
Thanks a ton, guys! You answered my question beautifully. Sometimes I lack the foresight to ask two questions at once.

Is there a particular leather that works best? It seems there are at least a couple of different tanning solutions. Do these make a difference? should I use a particularily tanned leather, or avoid using a certain type?

Thanks again for all the help, gentlemen!
Click to expand...


Yes

Chrome tanned leather is most common and will rust your blade.


Veg tanned Vegetable tanned is what you want for sheaths.


I strongly suggest the videos by Wild Rose and Paul Long
Start with the Wild rose ones.


Wild Rose
http://smartflix.com/store/video/346/Custom-Knife-Sheaths

and Paul Long
http://smartflix.com/store/video/6950/Basic-Pouch-Sheaths
http://smartflix.com/store/video/6955/Advanced-Blade-Sheaths

and the booklets by Al Stohlman
http://www.amazon.com/Art-Hand-Sewing-Leather/dp/1892214911

You can find that booklet on the net and libraries.
I think it's worth reading, but not the $15 I paid to buy it.



Wild Rose has some nice write ups on his site too on stitching.
http://www.wrtcleather.com/1-ckd/tutorials/_leatherstitch.html


and
There is an entire sheath making section on BladeForums.
They're just as helpful as we are here.
 
Last edited:
Rick,
That is the same stuff. Several companies sell it under different labels, but it is all the same AFAICT.
I put it on the welt and the back ,wait about 30 seconds to let it soak in ( apply more if needed), then press together and hold for about 60 seconds. Then I do the same for the top. I then clamp firmly but not hard and allow it to dry for 12 hours. I have to tear the joint apart if there is something wrong, as the layers won't peel apart like they do with Barge/weldwood. Often the leather will rip but not separate at the joint.
 
Thanks Stacy..... I went to Barge because of the required drying time of Leather Weld but it looks like I may have to revisit the merits of that glue.

Rick
 
For 4 or 5 years now I have been using Weldwood Dap the neopreme rubber formulation. I get it at the local Home Depot. Especially formulated not to burn out the brain cells. In my opinion its much better than Barge. I've also used Leatherweld and Tannersbond and have settled on this glue for several reasons. Here's the why: local availablility, can just go get some more when you're close to running out, inexpensive particularly considering there are no haz mat shipping charges (I can get a quart cheaper than the shipping on Barge), dries qucikly and yet is still usable several hours later(ever been called for a honey do when you'r glueing... not a problem now), incredible bond especially if ya tap your joint with a smooth faced hammer (try pulling that son of a gun apart, I have, tough), easy to use, thins or cleans up with water, no headaches, works on all types of leather including oiltan chap leather (Barge sometimes won't), minnimal glue line that smooths up much better than the others and the glued joint stays flexible not hard and cracky. In just a few minutes after applying the glue I can be moving on to the nextstep. This glue has made my time in the leather side of the shop more efficient. The only thing I've had trouble using this glue on has been the zippers on chaps. It just doesn't want to stick that zipper ribbon to the leather for some reason. I do alot of leather work and have recommended this glue to several of my buddies that make their living off of their leather products. Everygbody that has tried it has switched. Since switching to this glue I have made probably 100 pair of chinks/charmitas (short chaps), 25 pairs of shotguns (long chaps), numerous headstalls, martingales/breast collars, hobbles and assorted miscellania, over a thousand sheaths and 40 or 50 holsters/rifle scabbards and the reason I'm saying this is that I have test drove this stuff alot! THIS STUFF WORKS. Get ya a glass jar with a lid and some of those foam brushes from the .99 cent store (bag of six for a buck, just toss em when your done with your project) its all ya need. I've thrown my glue pots away, ya know the ones with all the old Barge drippings all over em like a melted candle. Use the Weldwood.
 
Plus one on Weldwood and a smooth-faced hammer. If you put it on mating surfaces and let it dry until it is not sticky to the touch (a second coat is even better), then put the two surfaces together.. it sticks like......... well glue. Beat the snotz out of it with a smooth faced hammer and it will literally tear the leather apart if you try to separate it.

I've made a lot of sheaths and I haven't had one come back yet.

Robert
 
The Weldwood stuff is good as is the Tandy "house brand", but if it is one of the solvent based products, the key is to have the correct solvent to add to keep it brushable. It quicky thickens in the container to a rubbery gel. Acetone , Mineral spirits, MEK,, VMP naptha wont do it. You need Xylene. Art supply stores carry (or used to carry) Xylene rubber cement solvent for rubber cement for paste up of art work. The stuff sold for like eight dollars a quart in the 80's , a rip off to be sure. BestRite was the brand name; used to be ginormous before digital art etc. overtook the graphics biz. So long non-repro blue pencils and Letraset!~ Ha almost coded language now.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top