As said above, google is your friend. There is a tremendous amount of info out there on this subject, but I will give you a starting point (keep in mind, preferences amongst professionals may vary widely as to which style of tool is suitable for a given task)
-I find that for sizes 1/4"-20/28 and below, straight flute spiral point taps are a nice easy to start tap type for beginners, and are more resistant to misalignment breakage than some other tap styles. For most uses, plain HSS with no coating is suitable, and most likely to work across the largest range of materials (some of the coatings are materials specific, for instance certain coatings for ferrous metals may be incompatible with aluminum).
-DO NOT BUY A JUNKY TAP HANDLE. You want a quality handle that holds the tap tight and straight. You are sure to break taps as a beginner if you are using a cheap tap handle. This also goes for dies, although in many cases, one-off external threads are better done with a single-point threading tool on a manual lathe.
-Many tap sets are provided with multi-flute carbon steel taps, some of which are so bad that they are barely suitable for chasing out threads in an engine block (which is what many of these cheap tap sets are used for). I find it superior in most cases to buy quality tools in the sizes you need, and then just keep them until you've built a much better set over time.
-For blind holes, spiral flute (not to be confused with spiral point) taps are ideal, but they can also be very easy to break with a tap handle if you haven't tapped a LOT of holes. In fact, they're sometimes referred to as CNC taps, and I've seen them noted as not for hand use. They can be safely used by hand if you know what you're doing, but the risk of breakage is still there depending on the web thickness, flute count, thread tolerance, and tap size. The spiral flutes eject the chips in reverse, so you don't get binding in the bottom of the hole.