Tapered tang handle shaping and fitting

PIndelicato

PIndelicato

Joined
Sep 16, 2002
Messages
1,577
I tried a Google search of BF and also looked for a tutorial without success. I'm working on a blade that was forged during a lesson with Tai Goo, and it has a tapered tang. My experience level is I have a few blades in progress but have yet to actually finish one.

I've read a number of tutorials about handle scales, but the following things I'm not sure how to adapt or address on a tapered tang:

-pre shaping the scales by pinning them together. Since the scales are not parallel when mounted and drilled, the holes do not line up nor again are the scales parallel when mounted. Do you shape them on the tang before glue-up, or just shape them individually?

-along the same lines as the first question, when and how do you do the shaping on the sides of the scales to make them parallel (or however shaped they will be) when done?

Here are a couple of pics for fun...please excuse the dog hair!

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I would say use your eyeballs and a caliper. This is much the same question as how do you get scales even that start at differently cut thicknesses.
 
Cool Blade!
Drill Your Holes. (shouldn't Be An Issue, Scales Are Still Flat & The Holes In Tang Should Have Been Drilled Before The Tang Was Tapered)
Pre-shape The Front Of The Handles (as You Wont Be Able To Once Attached)
Glue, Pin & Then Grind To Shape & Finish.

Randy
 
I am sure there are various ways but the one I most often use is. I drill the two scale then pin them together without the tang draw the front curve and cut them while linned together. I have a band saw so it is easy. I then sand them so they are smooth at the edge that meets the flat of the tang. I curve the front edges back. I then glue the scales on and work the scales on the belt sander and also with wood rasps and sand paper.
If your grain is cause and stringy a rasp will tear the fibres up so be careful how far you go beofre sanding or some other method. If you don't have round files I use coarse emery or sand paper on wood rod like broom handles and so forth.

Iy your tang is soft . Before you glue on the scales I drill a bundle of holes in the tang it lets the glue key in better. I also drill slightly into the scales to match the holes in the tang. If the epoxy goes from inside one scale through the tang into the otherside there is less chance of water getting under the epoxy and lifting of the tang.
 
Because of the tapered tang your holes through the scales are not perpedicular to the glue side of the scale. My process for tapered tang is to finish form the front of the scale first (if you're not butting up to a guard). Next, before any holes are drilled in the scales, glue up one scale in its final position. Next, (after first side glue is dry)clamp the glued up scale and knife in your drill press or mill vise so that the knife is parallel to the machine table. Drill holes through scale by using the holes that were drilled in knife tang prior to HT as transfer holes. Flip the knife and by using a stop, fixture or whatever you come up with position the 2nd scale on the knife so that the scale front matches the opposite side and glue up. Next, clamp your knife accordingly for drilling by using the side that you first drilled as transfer holes. Works for me ;)

Nice looking Blade PJ :thumbup: You're very lucky to have the opportunity to work with Tai
 
RSMITH said:
Cool Blade!
Drill Your Holes. (shouldn't Be An Issue, Scales Are Still Flat & The Holes In Tang Should Have Been Drilled Before The Tang Was Tapered)
Pre-shape The Front Of The Handles (as You Wont Be Able To Once Attached)
Glue, Pin & Then Grind To Shape & Finish.

Randy
Click to expand...
A question. If the tang holes are drilled previous to tapering I would think they would not be 90 degrees to the scales holes anymore? Wouldn't matter if the tang holes were drilled large. I guess. Am I all wet?

Sorry David answered as I was typing. Makes sense to me.
 
I Guess You Could Try Drilling It From Various Angles??? The Pin Doesnt Care, It Just Wants To Be Straight In The Handle Slabs.
And Yes, There Should Be Some Clearance In The The Tang Holes.
I Have Never Had An Issue With This, Maybe I Have Just Been Lucky.
If The Final Grind Of The Handle Is Going To Made When It Is On The Knife, This Shouldn't Matter. However, If You Were Going To Coat Or Blue The Knife (unable To Grind Tang Portion After Handles Are Installed) This Forces Everything To Become A Little More Precise.
Envision Two Fairly Square Handle Slabs With A Hole Drilled Straight Thru Them & Now You Put A Tapered Tang In The Middle.
The Pin Has To Be Straight, You Can't Bend It. You Are Not Trying To Match One Slab Up To The Tang, You Are Trying To Match One Slab Up To The Slab On The Other Side. Imagine What Would Happen If You Drilled The Slab 90 Degrees To The Tang On Both Sides & Then Tried To Put A Loveless Bolt Thru All Three.
Hope This Helps
Thanks, Randy
 
Hi guys,

I only got to spend 2 days with Tai, but it was a great learning experience and I hope to have the time and money for more in the near future.


Thanks for the comments; I really, really appreciate the input...but I'm still confused! I've already drilled all of the holes and everything lines up beautifully. I used this tutorial to do the drilling:

http://www.knifeforums.com/forums/showtopic.php?tid/758277/

Since the holes in the scales are offset due to the tapered tang, I can't really pin them together to do the shaping, and if I did I don't believe the edges would be square once I put them back on the tapered tang.

Also, since the tang is tapered this causes the handle to be thicker at the ricasso than at the end of the tang and I'm wondering if there is a trick to evening this out easily, or if you just have to eyeball it? Also, would it be better to do this before gluing or after?

I hope I'm not being too dense. I've read multiple tutorials on normal tangs and have those concepts pretty well down, it's just I'm having trouble translating the process to the tapered tang situation.
 
What Works For Me Is To Pin Everything Together (temporarily) And Grind The Handle Profile To Match The Tang. Then Remove The Slabs & Pin Them To Each Other, Create The Shape & Finish For The Front On The Slabs. Bond The Handles To Knife, Install & Peen/tighten Pins. Let Epoxy Set, Grind Handles To Finish.
As Far As The Slabs Being Thicker At Ricasso, Thats Just The Way It Is. I Use A 60 Grit Belt To Get Everything Evened Up. If I Wasnt Using Electricity I Think I May Still Do It The Same Way, Only I Would Be Using Files & Sandpaper.

Randy
 
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