tapered tang quesions

[pso]

I have two questions about tapered tangs.

How do you grind a tapered tang? I had thought to cut out the rough profile, with no curves, then drill the holes for my pins to use for alignment later. Next I would mark the taper on the edges then grind down most of the way with my angle grinder and files. I would then finish by grinding the tang against a piece of sandpaper held on flat surface. Lastly, I would mark the profile of the knife, using the pins holes for alignment of the pattern, and cut or grind it out.

Is is neccessary to compensate for the angle of the tapered tang when drilling holes for the pins in the scales? My scales will be made from sheets of paper micarta. I was going to shim the butt end of the scale and tang combination by the amount of the taper when drilling using a drill press. Otherwise, I would imagine having to drill the holes oversized or bend the pins just right.

Any suggestions that would improve or simplify these processes will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Phil

 

[Jerry Hossom]

Except for profiling the blade first and using a belt grinder, I do it pretty much like you do.

By drilling the tang holes before you taper, you have them aligned on the axis of the blade. I generally drill those holes 1/64-1/32" oversize to allow some room so I don't have to fight the pins through. I use the tang holes as the template for the slab holes. For bolstered knives, I epoxy on one slab, drill the holes, then epoxy on the other slab and drill back through the same holes. I don't bother with shims, since the slabs on the drill table are flat and aligned with the tang holes. By drilling back through the first slab to do the second slab, the holes are straight and ready to accept the pins.

For knives without bolster, I do the same thing, but before everything is epoxied. That way I can use the pins to hold the two slabs together and shape the front of the handle, before putting it on the knife.

edited for spelling...

 

[raker2]

Jerry, That is pretty much the same way I do it.
On grinding the tapered tang, I will hollow grind it first to remove as much metal from the center as I can so it doesn't take as long to flatten. Almost anything can be used to grind the center of the handle out. Hope this saves you some time.

 

[Don Cowles]

One other thing you can do that makes things a lot easier is to grind the taper all the way up into the ricasso. Then you get a good square fit of the scales to the bolsters or guard. Solves a lot of geometry problems.