boone it appears I can't teach you anything you don't already know
, but rest assured I'm taking notes from you
. What type of machine & control are you running ? Ti rings eh ? I made some simple ones for my nieces(Christmas) on my mill out of some .220 Ti plate I had laying around. I just ramped a .250 solid carbide e-mill into it and generated the correct I.D., then the O.D. leaving a thin web to saw cut. I then finished by hand ( file work,anodized,etc.) . They turned out pretty good.
bilinghm I think you are correct in your thoughts about the speeds & feeds recommended by tapmatic (or like boone was saying,every tool manufacturer) . I think alot of times speeds and feeds are for "optimum conditions" ie. rock solid set-up ,
not tool steel , correct coolant for the job , brand new sharp tool etc. I automatically drop the recommended S & F when starting a new job and bump it up from there as I see the job running sucessfully ( I should say I used to ) I'm not working by the "second" anymore. I'm in "my" shop now and the pace has slowed considerably now that I don't have "the man" breathing down my neck :yawn: I am in 100% agreement with boone in regards to his statement about the 5 min. cycle verses the 1 min cycle.Especially when it comes to broken taps. Sometimes that will "trash" the part just because you'll spend more time and money trying to get it out than just making a new one.A new one you wouldn't have had to make in the first place if you would have just slowed it down a bit to begin with
I only remember seeing recommended S&F very close to actual only one time , that was a Face Mill w/ ceramic inserts machining cast iron. It was almost like running the machine(Mazak MTV) in full rapid while making chips. Talk about a pucker factor
boone have you ever tried FeCL3 for removing a broken tap in Ti ?