TDI Ka-Bar yes...but which one?!?

[TravisPointer]

OK boys...I'm looking for a nice knife for carrying on me while in uniform(Army). Something small like the TDI Ka-Bar. I love the looks of this dandy. I've never held something with its particular shape, but it looks so darn comfortable and there are so many other great reviews, it MUST be a good buy! However...which TDI model would you choose? I myself am eyeing the serrated edged blade. It really appeals to me as having more functions. HOWEVER, I am very uneducated in knife sharpening and the only pocket knife I have has never been sharpened. I could learn quickly I'm sure, but my 2nd question is...does a serrated blade such as this one require more time/effort or a particular sharpening device? Any and ALL input is welcome thanks fellas.

https://www.kabar.com/product_detai...goryId=1,7,8,9&categoryName=Military/Tactical

 

[senoBDEC]

Serrated edges take some practice, and unless you're carrying a pocket stone with a "pointed" edge rather than just a regular rectangular sharpening stone, you probably won't want serrated. I'd recommend snagging either the Spyderco Profile stones or a simple ceramic rod (with handguard). Either will run you 20-40 dollars if you do want serrated - however, you probably will have to sharpen the serrations less often - oh, and do sharpen your pocket knife - it's safer the sharper it is .

Plain/non-serrated edge:
The easiest way is to simply use a small, water-washable marker on the edge bevel of the knife (the non-blackened part) - then use your thumb as a guide along the back of the blade, being careful of your fingers, and then find the angle necessary to sharpen it (if on a flat stone). Convex edges (rather than an actual "angle" - it's a smooth curve (bulging outwards) to a point - imagine an arrowhead in profile ).

Serrated edge: more or less the same, but with a slightly curved motion to make sure the parts near the points are also sharpened (although this isn't strictly necessary unless the points are getting very dull). Otherwise, just sharpen the middle areas of the curve. Some light passes on the opposite side (the one that's completely flat - this is known as 'chisel grind' BTW - I forget if the TDI is done this way) will remove the edge burrs and you're done. No real need to polish the edge (make it a very fine edge).

P.S. A lot of the reviews also recommend filing or dremeling the little bit of the tang that sticks out in the index choil.

 

[TravisPointer]

Thank you for clearing things up immensley senoBDEC!

I really think I'll go for the serrated. By the sounds of it, wouldn't it be easier to sharper the serrated edge with a ceramic rod than a flat surface?

Another quick one...where do you knife buffs get your sharpening stones and rods around here anyway? Does it matter all that much?

 

[senoBDEC]

Thank you for clearing things up immensley senoBDEC!

I really think I'll go for the serrated. By the sounds of it, wouldn't it be easier to sharper the serrated edge with a ceramic rod than a flat surface?

Another quick one...where do you knife buffs get your sharpening stones and rods around here anyway? Does it matter all that much?

Yes, a ceramic rod that's triangular would work best for serrated edges (you don't want a sharp "corner" on a stone for serrated edges, you want a rounded one - otherwise the corner of the your stone may chip and in turn, damage the edge of your blade:
Here are some examples: http://www.ragweedforge.com/SharpeningCatalog.html - with semi-regular sharpening (depending on how wear-resistant your steel is - i.e. how long it remains in its workably sharp condition - you can sharpen more or less often).
-- I personally prefer the Spyderco Triangle-style stones. I think DMT gets some VERY good reviews as well, but tend to be somewhat expensive, though the Spyderco stones aren't much cheaper. I really dislike the "guided" systems.

http://www.oldjimbo.com/survival/sharps.html for some good info.