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Technical Q&A. Your questions about my product and methods answered.

Discussion in 'Promethean Knives by Salem Straub' started by Salem Straub, May 16, 2012.

  1. Salem Straub

    Salem Straub

    Oct 20, 2008
    Please use this thread to ask anything you may wonder about the materials and processes I use in the creation of my work.
     
  2. fast14riot

    fast14riot

    Oct 27, 2010
    Hey Salem, I have some qurstions about forging integral knives. I'm interested in seeing the fullers or dies or whatever you use for the initial setting of the bolster. I have been wanting to try it out on some smaller stock i have and was going to just try out a basic spring fuller or maybe a "godzilla" style. Any tips you may have would be great, your integrals are looking awesome! Some of the cleanest examples around!

    Cheers!

    -Xander
     
  3. Salem Straub

    Salem Straub

    Oct 20, 2008
    Thanks Xander! I use a guillotine style fuller. I built it heavy and I like the stability it gives me, as well as the truly parallel fullering. I made the dies out of leaf spring, and welding a mild steel striking pad to the top die. The rest is angle iron and plate, with a solid 1" square shaft plug welded into the bottom plate for the hardy hole of my anvil.
    Lorelei Sims has a how-to for building almost the same one in her book, "Backyard Blacksmithing."
    Here's a pic, let me know if it's clear enough.
    [​IMG]
     
  4. fast14riot

    fast14riot

    Oct 27, 2010
    Cool set up Salem. Thanx for the pic and explanation. I like that style, I may make one like that.


    -Xander
     
  5. Salem Straub

    Salem Straub

    Oct 20, 2008
    Also, check out the very nice one Sam Salvati just posted in shoptalk...
     
  6. S.Alexander

    S.Alexander

    Jul 7, 2013
  7. Salem Straub

    Salem Straub

    Oct 20, 2008
    Shane, sorry I didn't see this, better late than never, right? Yes, this knife has only epoxy holding the handle on. It's a pretty darn thorough epoxy job, with notches ground into the tang for a locking grip. The handle should need to be completely destroyed to be removed.
     
  8. S.Alexander

    S.Alexander

    Jul 7, 2013
    Thanks Salem. I made a wa handle the same way. I didn't grind any notches though. Just a couple of holes. Notches definitely would have been better.
     
  9. stezann

    stezann

    Apr 13, 2011
    Regarding the use of epoxy without pins i have a funny one... the japanese style wa handle kitchen knife i made is just friction fitted. no pin nor epoxy.
    With great force i can remove the blade if i wish, for any maintenance, but a couple of handle butt tapping will freeze again the tang snug. Of course is not a swinging knife ;)
    A notched tang with epoxy won't come loose.
     

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