Hey Salem, I have some qurstions about forging integral knives. I'm interested in seeing the fullers or dies or whatever you use for the initial setting of the bolster. I have been wanting to try it out on some smaller stock i have and was going to just try out a basic spring fuller or maybe a "godzilla" style. Any tips you may have would be great, your integrals are looking awesome! Some of the cleanest examples around!
Thanks Xander! I use a guillotine style fuller. I built it heavy and I like the stability it gives me, as well as the truly parallel fullering. I made the dies out of leaf spring, and welding a mild steel striking pad to the top die. The rest is angle iron and plate, with a solid 1" square shaft plug welded into the bottom plate for the hardy hole of my anvil.
Lorelei Sims has a how-to for building almost the same one in her book, "Backyard Blacksmithing."
Here's a pic, let me know if it's clear enough.
Hey Salem, I had a question about this kitchen knife that you sold. I noticed that it is a hidden tang, but do not see a pin anywhere holding the scale to the tang. I like that look without the pin. Is it held together with only epoxy?
Shane, sorry I didn't see this, better late than never, right? Yes, this knife has only epoxy holding the handle on. It's a pretty darn thorough epoxy job, with notches ground into the tang for a locking grip. The handle should need to be completely destroyed to be removed.
Regarding the use of epoxy without pins i have a funny one... the japanese style wa handle kitchen knife i made is just friction fitted. no pin nor epoxy.
With great force i can remove the blade if i wish, for any maintenance, but a couple of handle butt tapping will freeze again the tang snug. Of course is not a swinging knife
A notched tang with epoxy won't come loose.