tell me how to make it please

You can use files,grinders,ext...Over at British blades their are many articles on making this style.
 
I would say that it is most likely a hollow grind. The blade probably has a distal taper too. I'd do this knife with the following steps:

  • I'd first make the overall blade shape first, either by forging or cutting out of flat bar. If you forge it, you can put the distal taper in during the forging process.
  • If you didn't forge it, but instead cut it out of flat stock, you can now grind in the distal taper. Distal taper is the taper of the spine from the ricasso to the tip. The spine gets smaller in width as it gets closer to the tip, equally on both sides. I do this by grinding the taper with the tip down on a flat platen. I also paint the spine with dykem layout dye. I then use a fine point awl to scratch the taper angles on the spine as a guide. This allows me to keep the distal taper even on both sides.
  • You can then hollow grind the blade on a contact wheel.
  • The tang will also need to be tapered slightly to allow the guard to slide up to the ricasso. The angle of this taper isn't as important as the distal taper, since it will be hidden inside the handle material.

An important note is that the junction of the tang to the ricasso should not be squared off shoulders. That apparent 90 degree angle should have a small radius (rounded) so that there are no stress risers at this spot of the knife. A stress riser could result in the material breaking at this place from side pressure.
 
Those blades are scandi ground. They are flat ground with a very narrow bevel. The difference between them and "western" blades is they don't have a secondary bevel.

The entire bevel you see there is all going down to a zero edge, so when you sharpen it, you lay the entire bevel on the sharpening stone.

I've made about 160 of them. They are whicked slicing blades.
 
scottickes said:
  • If you didn't forge it, but instead cut it out of flat stock, you can now grind in the distal taper. Distal taper is the taper of the spine from the ricasso to the tip. The spine gets smaller in width as it gets closer to the tip, equally on both sides. I do this by grinding the taper with the tip down on a flat platen. I also paint the spine with dykem layout dye. I then use a fine point awl to scratch the taper angles on the spine as a guide. This allows me to keep the distal taper even on both sides.
Click to expand...

Do you freehand the spine taper? Or do you have something to help you line up the awl?
 
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