I am new to blacksmithing and so far I've only done railroad spike knives. I've made around 30-40 of them and I think I've got the hang of it. I want to post a few pictures of them on here. They are all high carbon spikes, tempered and sharp enough to cut the hair of your arm. Today I was beating a few out and for some reason I couldn't get the blade to widen out. Does anyone know why? Also how much could I sell my knives for ?
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- Thread starter shawn9106
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http://s1378.photobucket.com/user/shawn9106/library/Mobile Uploads?sort=3&page=1 here is where the pictures are
I am by no means an expert at blacksmithing but ill give my .02 for what its worth. First off they look great. Regarding how to widen the blade. Try using the horn on the anvil to widen the blade by putting the blade along the horn lengthwise then flatten it out after you get the width you want. Im not sure if answered you too well. My recommendation for selling is to search for something similar and base your price off of that. I have seen knives vaguely similar to yours and maybe they could help determine your price.
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Shawn,
When putting hammer to steel on the anvil keep this in mind. A round or square hammer will make the steel spread out in all directions equally. A cross pein or straight pein hammer will move material more in one direction than another. You can use the cross pein on the hammer (you can find them at your local home center) to widen the blade without lengthening it much. Then flip it around to the square or round side to flatten things out and continue shaping your profile etc. So, think of it like this, the straight or cross pein is like making karate chops in the steel. So if the pein was your hand, the steel would move to the left and right of your hand and not so much at the finger tips and wrist.
PS. Just a heads-up. Discussing sales is not allowed at your membership level.
When putting hammer to steel on the anvil keep this in mind. A round or square hammer will make the steel spread out in all directions equally. A cross pein or straight pein hammer will move material more in one direction than another. You can use the cross pein on the hammer (you can find them at your local home center) to widen the blade without lengthening it much. Then flip it around to the square or round side to flatten things out and continue shaping your profile etc. So, think of it like this, the straight or cross pein is like making karate chops in the steel. So if the pein was your hand, the steel would move to the left and right of your hand and not so much at the finger tips and wrist.
PS. Just a heads-up. Discussing sales is not allowed at your membership level.
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I didn't think spikes where high carbon. Do you know what kind of steel they are? How did you heat treat them?
I might have to go walk the tracks again...
I might have to go walk the tracks again...
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Here is some information from http://www.cartercrafts.com/carbon_myth.htm
Another "high carbon" misconception involves railroad spikes. Nearly every bladesmith has made knives from railroad spikes. Railroad spikes are readily available, usually for free, they are a novel item, and they can make a perfectly useable knife. However, they simply do not contain enough carbon to make a good blade. One big misunderstanding comes from railroad spikes that are marked "HC" for "High Carbon". The problem is that what the railroads consider "High Carbon" is equivalent to what a knifemaker would call low carbon mild steel.
According to specifications set forth by American Railway Engineering Association there are two classes of railroad spikes, low carbon track spikes used on straight sections of railroads and high carbon steel track spikes used on curves and switches. According to the specifications, low carbon spikes may contain no more than 0.12% carbon and "High Carbon" spikes may contain NO MORE THAN 0.30% carbon.
Knife blade steels typically contain between 0.85% and 1.5% carbon, or 3-5 times as much carbon as a "High Carbon" railroad spike.
The reasoning is that the railroads want mild steel that will bend rather than break. A bent spike will still hold a rail whereas a broken spike will not.
Another "high carbon" misconception involves railroad spikes. Nearly every bladesmith has made knives from railroad spikes. Railroad spikes are readily available, usually for free, they are a novel item, and they can make a perfectly useable knife. However, they simply do not contain enough carbon to make a good blade. One big misunderstanding comes from railroad spikes that are marked "HC" for "High Carbon". The problem is that what the railroads consider "High Carbon" is equivalent to what a knifemaker would call low carbon mild steel.
According to specifications set forth by American Railway Engineering Association there are two classes of railroad spikes, low carbon track spikes used on straight sections of railroads and high carbon steel track spikes used on curves and switches. According to the specifications, low carbon spikes may contain no more than 0.12% carbon and "High Carbon" spikes may contain NO MORE THAN 0.30% carbon.
Knife blade steels typically contain between 0.85% and 1.5% carbon, or 3-5 times as much carbon as a "High Carbon" railroad spike.
The reasoning is that the railroads want mild steel that will bend rather than break. A bent spike will still hold a rail whereas a broken spike will not.
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith
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Thanks i4Marc. I was going to say the same about the HC designation. I usually figure it as 1050 steel at the max.
On how hard to hit the steel, temperature is the best way to "ease the blow", not brute force ( pun intended). Heat the spike fully into the forging range. For that type of steel it will be about 2200°F, or yellow color. Forge on down through the orange color and after it gets to medium red cease forging and re-heat the blade. Most new smiths are trying to forge at 1600°F, which is where they should be stopping. The steel is still very solid at that temp. Try heating it more and you will find it gets much more malleable.
On how hard to hit the steel, temperature is the best way to "ease the blow", not brute force ( pun intended). Heat the spike fully into the forging range. For that type of steel it will be about 2200°F, or yellow color. Forge on down through the orange color and after it gets to medium red cease forging and re-heat the blade. Most new smiths are trying to forge at 1600°F, which is where they should be stopping. The steel is still very solid at that temp. Try heating it more and you will find it gets much more malleable.